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Hey everyone,
I know this comes up now and then. I have a 1995, please give me the the best ideas on making the spark plug replacement as easy as possible.
How many can i do from above, how many from below and is it easiest to remove the inner fender parts to access the plugs.
Thank you in advance.
Mike
I haven't done them on my LT1 yet, but my 91 (L98) I was able to get them all from the top, and yes, removing the inner fender well makes access a lot easier for some, with a good long extension.
If you're tall, raising the front of the car helps too You're not hunched over straining the lower back...
Hey everyone,
I know this comes up now and then. I have a 1995, please give me the the best ideas on making the spark plug replacement as easy as possible.
How many can i do from above, how many from below and is it easiest to remove the inner fender parts to access the plugs.
Thank you in advance.
Mike
It is worth the time and effort to remove the inner fenders. You can get all of the plugs from the top. Put the front of the car on jackstands and remove the wheels. All of them are pretty easy that way. The only trouble I had was putting in the number 8 plug. I also changed the wires while I was at it. I only removed the tensioning pulley. It was not hard at all.
From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
Cruise-In III Veteran
Cruise-In IV Veteran
St. Jude Donor '12
LT1 - pain is number 8, passenger rear.
With my headers #1 & #2 are interesting.
If you remove the AIR hoses and unbolt and twist the ASR out of the way the driver side is a breeze. You don't need to remove any of the fender well pieces.
When my LT1 was stock to get the number 8 plug started I would sit on the front passenger side tire facing forward, then reach back with my left hand. This way the angle of my wrist was just right.
Order the wire looms and plug holders BEFORE you go and remove the wires. They are brittle from years of engine heat and will break off between your fingers as you go and remove them.
You can get them online from Mid-America Motorworks (MAM).
When my LT1 was stock to get the number 8 plug started I would sit on the front passenger side tire facing forward, then reach back with my left hand. This way the angle of my wrist was just right.
Be prepared to use a breaker bar, too. That Number 8 plug is a legendary ****.
Order the wire looms and plug holders BEFORE you go and remove the wires. They are brittle from years of engine heat and will break off between your fingers as you go and remove them.
You can get them online from Mid-America Motorworks (MAM).
No need I just use a nice set of wire ties and neatly tuck them away looks nice and I actually end up getting them further away from the motor and exhaust. The wire looms keep everything to close to the exhaust and valve covers
Use a small hose over the top of the plug to start them all. The hose will spin on the plug before the plug will crossthread. Use anti-sieze.
These 2 suggestions above are the best tips you will get, also don't over tighten the plugs, put them in till they touch, then go just a little more till snug and you can feel the washer start to crush....WW
No need I just use a nice set of wire ties and neatly tuck them away looks nice and I actually end up getting them further away from the motor and exhaust. The wire looms keep everything to close to the exhaust and valve covers
From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
Cruise-In III Veteran
Cruise-In IV Veteran
St. Jude Donor '12
Originally Posted by STL94LT1
When my LT1 was stock to get the number 8 plug started I would sit on the front passenger side tire facing forward, then reach back with my left hand. This way the angle of my wrist was just right.
It sounds wierd, but I get to number 8 in a similar way. My tires are usually off so I stand in that area and reach back.
Getting to #8 wasn't hard for me.Get a special tool that they sell at Sears.It fits in the end of the spark plug socket or any socket & its shaped like a nut so you can use a wrench to turn socket.These are amazing & work in tight places.They come in 1/4,3/8,& 1/2 drive & are low profile.They are $20(Craftsmen).If you work on your car or anyone elses, these are a must.Only problem is the 1/4 inch one breaks easy but there covered under warranty.Anyone know what I'm talking about?Also the wire "holders" or looms will break just looking at themYou will need new ones like previously stated.I was as careful as you could be & they just crumpled in my hands-they were original
When I did mine, I did not take out any fenderwells or move the ASR and don't really remember doing anything extraordinary to get at the plugs. The drivers side isn't too bad and perhaps the ASR removal and fenderwell removal will make them easier. On the passenger side, the front two are no big deal, the back two, especially number 8 are something else. I think the sitting on the tire and reaching back advice might work good, what I did was stand on the driver side of the car and lean over the top which put my hand in the right position/angle to do it.
As someone else said, use anti-seeze and take your time.
Nice job there Tom. I've got a socket that was shortened so it will fit in a tight spot using a box wrench to turn it. Got it off Ebay a few years back, but don't see any listed there right now.