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Im going to be flushing my cooling system later this week. i now have the regular coolant(green) in there, and want to put Dexcool(orange back in. Will it be any problem switching and what are some tips for doing this. I know to use distilled water and the pellets from GM, but is there anything else I should know?
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Re: Flushing cooling system (JPLT1)
There is a recent TSB on DexCool use in those cars that did not come with it. You have a 94 so I think it is acceptable, but why would you? There is not much advantage, IMO. GM only recommends a 2 year life on DexCool in back service, and it has no cooling advantage over green (both are ethelyne gylcol based). You already have silicates plated out into the cooling system so I don't see any wear advantage on the water pump seal.
If you do, the TSB does not recommend using cooling pellets. Also there is another recent study by Texaco and GM regarding DexCool that recommends certain radiator caps and keeping the coolant level at higher levels to prevent air in the system.
If you do a search on this forum I think you will find the TSB. I posted it a while ago. I don't have a web sight to like to right now, but can probably find the text to copy in the moring if you would like to read it.
I am sticking with DexCool in vehicles that came with it (mostly for warranty reasons) and staying with Green in vehicles that came with green.
Personally I would stick with the stock green stuff since that was what the car came with. I have heard more bad than good about Dexcool and for the price I just can't justify it. If you use the green with demineralized water you shouldn't have any problems. I've ran green in my cars for over 100k and have never had any rust or gunk buildup.
If you are really set on it, make sure that you have all the old stuff out. It might be beneficial to get one of those power flush kits that allow you to hook up a garden hose directly to your heater hose to speed up the process. Don't forget to turn on the heater to get the stuff out of the heater core. Run everything out of the car till it becomes clear and then let it run a few minutes more to make sure. After that you need to get all the bad mineral water out , or as much as you can, for the new fluid and clean water.
I use Dex Cool in mine, however I've done some things. First and foremost I've installed an electric water pump, so I basically replaced the water pump seal. I then flushed the old stuff completely and made absolutely sure that I had pure clear water. Then I used dex-cool. So far I haven't had any trouble. I have heard horror stories about mixing the stuff however.
BTW you don't have to turn on your heater. There isn't a magic valve in the cooling lines, water always flows through the heater core, there just isn't always air directed over it to go into the car. If you pull the thermostat out of the car and put it back together you can flush it very well with the motor cold using a water hose. However letting the water pump help you out speeds up the proces. That's the other plus of the electric pump, you can do it cold.
BTW you don't have to turn on your heater. There isn't a magic valve in the cooling lines, water always flows through the heater core, there just isn't always air directed over it to go into the car
My 1984-'89 parts book shows a heater control valve on all '84-'87's. I can't comment on other years. Is it magic? If in doubt, throw all caution to the wind, and turn on the heater.
BTW you don't have to turn on your heater. There isn't a magic valve in the cooling lines, water always flows through the heater core, there just isn't always air directed over it to go into the car.
Well, I wouldn't call it "Magic" but indeed there are control and shutoff valves used for correct operation of the heaters in 94's (and I would suspect the same in most vehicles). I think running constant 210+ degree heat into the cabin when it's not wanted would sure make a hot day much hotter. I don't have a manual handy but I'm sure the correct procedure to get all the old fluid out would be to run the heater.