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Let us know where you can purchase the 5-800X u-joints as these seem pretty difficult to find.
They're discontinued. The only way to get them is if you find them sitting on a shelf at a driveshaft shop or someone who has some extras they've held onto. I doubt you'd have good luck finding some.
Though, some don't like the seal that Spicer started using as it can crack. I'd just look at the Neapco Brute Force. As you can get those at Advance and are supposed to be a good joint as it is my understanding that Neapco has been around longer than Spicer.
They're discontinued. The only way to get them is if you find them sitting on a shelf at a driveshaft shop or someone who has some extras they've held onto. I doubt you'd have good luck finding some.
Oh, that's what I thought. Dana/Spicer says that the 5-799X is the current replacement part for our C4s.
Oh, that's what I thought. Dana/Spicer says that the 5-799X is the current replacement part for our C4s.
FWIW
You can use that joint as the difference is the 5-800X has a coating on the cap to prevent galvanization since it is going in an aluminum shaft.
But you have to decide if you're willing to risk the cap corroding to the shaft if you go with the noncoated Spicer 5-799X joint. Sure would suck if the next time you replace the joints and you can't press the caps out or it ends up damaging the shaft trying to press corroded caps out. I'd say GM went with coated caps for a reason as they cost more than non coated caps. It might not hurt to call Spicer to find out why they discontinued the 5-800X joint since the C4 is supposed to have a coated cap.
Neapco Brute Force ujoints have the coated caps for aluminum shafts. That's what I'm going with. Plus you don't have to worry about the seal cracking like you do with the Spicer joints.
My Neapco Brute Force ujoints don't have arrows. I called Neapco, and they said there is no right or wrong way to put the ujoint in as it didn't matter which way you pressed them in.
I also called Spicer. They said their joints don't have arrows on them and said it didn't matter which way you pressed in a non greasable joint. But did say some race guys like to put the greasable joints in a certain way.
OK, here is what I learned from my experience with the U-joints on my driveshafts.
Our U-joints come without Zerk (grease) fittings. Don't replace them with ones with Zerk fittings. I did and found that a grease-gun fitting WILL NOT fit on the Zerk fitting after the drive shaft has been installed in the car. Naturally, I had to do it all over again.
Doing the ujoints in the halfshaft wasn't really bad. Make sure you tap them on both sides with a hammer/chisel in the opposite direction you pressed it to loosen it up.
How did that happen? From the pics, it doesn't look like the ujoint broke.
No u-joints intact. Full throttle at night. Pot hole or some thing of the like. Hit it tire came off the pavement and when it came back down grabbed and twisted the half-shaft in two.