C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Bosch III Install Started

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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 04:01 PM
  #21  
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I bought a set of Bosch III earlier this year. The o-rings supplied with the injectors didn't do their job. Ended up using the o-rings from the original Multechs, no leaks at all.
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 07:12 PM
  #22  
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So, day 3 everything is back together and leak free. I guess the first time everything just wasnt seated correctly. However, when I started the car up, the idle rose to about 2300rpms and got quite hot pretty quick. I was worried and shut the car down. Is that whats supposed to happen?
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 07:36 PM
  #23  
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Nope
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 07:55 PM
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Don't panic. Idle problem sounds like a major vacume leak. Go over all your check all your vacume hoses and make sure the are on. What do you mean by got hot real fast? what was the temp gauge reading?
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 09:09 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by hooked073
Don't panic. Idle problem sounds like a major vacume leak. Go over all your check all your vacume hoses and make sure the are on. What do you mean by got hot real fast? what was the temp gauge reading?
vac leak for sure.. did you put the runners on right sides... they are not the same and will bolt up. If you have them reversed it will race sucking air from where the egr tube is
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 09:14 PM
  #26  
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As for the vaccumn leak. I did see the gaskets were different. Also, I had the vaccumn lines to the EGR mixed up but even after fixing that the car idled at 1500rpms. Does the computer have to be reset when the car is cold?

As for the temps, the oil was about 250* and coolant was 230* not outrageous I dont think, but I didnt feel comfortable having it just sitting revved to 2300.
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 09:36 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Bucs34
As for the vaccumn leak. I did see the gaskets were different. Also, I had the vaccumn lines to the EGR mixed up but even after fixing that the car idled at 1500rpms. Does the computer have to be reset when the car is cold?

As for the temps, the oil was about 250* and coolant was 230* not outrageous I dont think, but I didnt feel comfortable having it just sitting revved to 2300.
the only thing that will make it race is air, not fuel.. check to make sure the throttle cable is installed right, the throttle
plates must be fully closed. The IAC takes care of controlling a vac leak to let it idle about 750.... make sure all hoses are connected, brake booster hose, pcv etc. You have air coming in somewhere
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 10:19 PM
  #28  
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Thanks Jon, tomorrow Ill try to check for leaks if the weather is ok. As for the computer though, does that have to be reset when the car is cold? Would that have any affect on my current problem?
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Bucs34
Thanks Jon, tomorrow Ill try to check for leaks if the weather is ok. As for the computer though, does that have to be reset when the car is cold? Would that have any affect on my current problem?
setting the computer will not affect this, find the leak, you have one for sure
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