OK, I think I'm going to get these, NOW, my question is...do I have to get the car up on a lift, and pull the manifolds out from the bottom, then install the headers up from the bottom? Or can I slide the headers in from above? I've put numerous headers on cars, and I always seem to get lucky, and be able to slide in from the top. Anyone know? THANKS!

 

How do you get around the smog nazzis?

Flynn :reddevil

 

Ohh...I got a buddy with a shop, but he CAN'T cheat on the sniffer, so I can't make an ENTIRE racecar. (and he REALLY won't cheat on the visual, but since the 2149's have all the hook-ups he said he'd pass it)
EDIT: Besides, you have smog legal headers!! (Just say your motor is an LT1...because basically, it IS!)


[Modified by TIMSPEED, 4:51 PM 3/19/2002]

 

I just finished putting them on my 85:

I also bought the 87 Hooker Y-pipe and had the local Midasettes weld the 4 bolt CAT flange from my old pipe.

Jack car up and put on 4 stands. 18 inches up worked for me, and I weigh 240 lbs and slide around under on a creeper. Under car clearance was just ok.
1. Disconnect battery 2. Remove starter 3. Remove old Y-pipe ( I removed the whole system to be able to get at the CAT 4. Remove oil dip stick tube. 5. Remove alternator 6. Remove AC support tube 7. Disconnect AIR tube (hose clamps) connections in 3 places 8. Remove sparking plugs or risk breaking them off. (replace em anyway, nows a good time) 9. Remove manifolds 9a. Scrape off all gasket material 10. Slide headers up from under the car and just hang them there. Then reach down from the top and pull them into place. Put ALL bolts and studs into place loosely before tightening them. I used the locking header bolts from Summit in all locations except 3 which I will explain 11. AIR plumbing connects right up, except for the long tube that runs back to the CAT. I just eliminated mine since my CAT has been spayed. If I were to keep it I think that I would go with soft copper tubing that could be formed into a good fit. The old steel tube is too stiff to work with with any degree of comfort. 12. Since I have aftermarket heads, (Dart SII) my new Hooker y-pipe was about 3/4 inch too narrow and the left side was about 1/2 inch too short, I had to bend the ends apart, and use some aluminum spacers to fill the gap on the left side. Other than that, it bolted right up.

Kinks: Hooking up the starter wiring was a PITA. Because I had decided to use some of the velcro/aluminum backed insulation blanket on the starter my wires ended up in the wrong places. I compensated by going to my electrical supply house and getting some fiberglass insulating electrical tape. It is thermoplastic sealing and works/looks really good. I wrapped all wiring within two inches of the new headers with this tape for a really professional look. This is the stuff you see used in high temperature applications like stoves, furnaces, kilns, etc.

The header bolts: The bolt closest to the firewall on the passenger side took me about 3 hours over two days to fully tighten. The appropriate allen wrench would have saved me on this one. As it was, I ended up bending an allen wrench to reach. I am going to take a hole saw and cut access holes through the plastic fender liners for access as soon as I locate some nice snapin filler caps for the holes I make.

I used three of the 1 inch pipe spacers that came with the headers, and the three long manifold studs from the old one to re-mount the dipstick tube, Alternator support tube, and the AC support tube. I couldn't reuse the lower alternator brace blacket, but think that the alt is secure enough without it. This is why I couldn't use locking bolts for the entire header set.

Sorry for the length and windiness of this, but I'm glad to share.

 

all those words frighten me! :eek:

 

Windy, MY BUTT!!!
What a beautiful discription. I am anticipating a similar project, soon, and really appreciate the time you took with this. I know I'm not the only one, either. Thank you!

I LOVE it!!! I fell out of my chair when I read that. Thanks again.


[Modified by CFI-EFI, 6:14 PM 3/19/2002]

 

NHVett,
EXCELLANT info. Thanks. (rubbing hands) Can't wait till I get my 2149's from Scorp:D

 

At least somebody will finally get to install those suckers. :)

 

Great writeup, thanks from someone who's getting ready to install headers,
Dave :cheers:

 

When I did mine, I did it just like NHVett with one exception, I removed the right hand diagonal brace from the crossmember, gave me way more room and only took a minute to remove and reinstall. I was unable to reinstall the alternator back brace and AC back brace becuase if the proximity to the tube. I had no problem with the back bolt, I used a really short wrench and a 7/16 socket on a 1/4" drive with an extension.

 

2149s are not smog legal. The only ones I have found for corvette, made by hooker are the 2061s. These are shorty headers and are listed on the Executive Order for 92-95 vettes. I have not found a set of long tubes that are smog legal for California. I know they won't effect the sniffer test, but without a connection, you won't pass the visual.

flynn :reddevil

 

Am I the only one that got those on without moving anything? Oh exept for the crossmember brace like Fastguy said, no biggy. IT takes alot of beating, blood, swearing and tearing for those hooker to go in:smash: The header bolts are a different story all toghether:mad You will be sore the next day to say the least. Have fun!!!

 

Has anyone tried sliding them in from the top?

 

They will not go in from the top.

BTW- Scorp, why are you opting out on the 2149's????


[Modified by Mojo, 10:26 AM 3/20/2002]

 

Just got mine from Summit today. These things are soooooo beautiful! But does it make a difference that the O2 sensor is in the #7 tube as opposed to the collector?
Summit had them in stock and I had them in 2 days. Jeg's is back ordered 3 weeks.I think Scorp SOLD them to pay for a tranny he is swapping out right now. Something like that Scorp?

 

I had to sell them to free up some $$ for a new transmission. :(

 

:(

 

Yup, hey what do you need for your C5, I still owe you for that AFPR. :)

 

I pulled the starter and brace and they slipped right in. I was fortunate to borrow a lift though. Now if I only had an exhaust to bolt onto it.:(