How to replace a fuel filter on a '95
06-09-2010, 01:37 AM
#1
How to replace a fuel filter on a '95
Fuel Filter!
Ok don’t be afraid of this one because it is actually easy when you have me on your side.
Check it out.
Get into your car and start it up.
Drive it to where you want to work on it.
Open the fuse panel on the right side of the car.
Now pull the fuel pump fuse with the car still on!
This is the fuse listed as FP and it will cause your motor to stop. Why!? Because your fuel system is always under pressure. … … … sorry, I was just singing to myself that David Bowie/ Queen song.
Now you can take the keys out and disconnect your battery if you want (I didn’t).
Safety tip: Don’t blow your car up.
The filter is tucked up under the right side up by the cat.
Both sides have sliding nut things on the fuel line. The filter’s nut size is an odd 25/32… but the nut on the line is an 18mm. I did not need the 25/32nds wrench, so the 18mm is all you’ll need for the filter.
You will need:
A new filter
A container to catch fuel (because it will leak out quite a bit still)
Rubber Gloves (if you want)
Wrenches ( 10mm and 18mm)
Torx wrenches (I believe a T30 and T25 for the way I am about to show you)
Rags or paper towels
Scissors
If you are replacing the pressure regulator, you need one of those too.
Not too many tools needed at all.
Pop the hood and glass because you are lifting a c4.
Jack up and support your car giving you room to work under the general area.
Notice the bracket which holds the filter in place. Take this off with a 10mm.
With the container under the filter, take the 18mm and remove the lower nut on the filter. Fuel will leak down for a while. If the drizzle is too slow, pull the line out some more.
If you are doing this in a garage like me, you will need to keep the doors wide open with a fan circulating the fumes out.
Go get a coffee or chips in the kitchen while you wait.
Now back to the top of the engine.
Remove the fuel rail covers.
T25 removes the fuel line bracket (I have already loosened this before taking the picture).
The line you want to focus on is the one without the regulator on it. If you would like to replace the regulator too, now is a great time to do this.
This is the fuel pressure regulator and from Autozone, will run you about $50 after taxes.
OH! There is also a rubber bracket which holds the two fuel lines together and a plastic bracket which attaches to the side of the engine bay… follow the lines to make sure at least the fuel line with the filter is completely free to move around. I cut the zip tie with scissors and pulled the rubber deal off. A 10mm will remove the sidewall bracket (mine was broken anyway, sorry no picture).
With the filter line free to move around, you can rotate the line going into the fuel rail with your fingers.
This will drop the filter down to where you can fit a wrench on the upper sliding nut! Go ahead and take off the filter.
New parts rock.
You can replace the zip tie, but it will stay on without it. I left mine on, but not zip-tied.
BAM! Now put it all back together! See, that was easy as pi… 3.1415….
I have always found pi easier than pie. MMMMM pie. Oh snap! Pizza pie! I am strange.
Ok don’t be afraid of this one because it is actually easy when you have me on your side.
Check it out.
Get into your car and start it up.
Drive it to where you want to work on it.
Open the fuse panel on the right side of the car.
Now pull the fuel pump fuse with the car still on!
This is the fuse listed as FP and it will cause your motor to stop. Why!? Because your fuel system is always under pressure. … … … sorry, I was just singing to myself that David Bowie/ Queen song.
Now you can take the keys out and disconnect your battery if you want (I didn’t).
Safety tip: Don’t blow your car up.
The filter is tucked up under the right side up by the cat.
Both sides have sliding nut things on the fuel line. The filter’s nut size is an odd 25/32… but the nut on the line is an 18mm. I did not need the 25/32nds wrench, so the 18mm is all you’ll need for the filter.
You will need:
A new filter
A container to catch fuel (because it will leak out quite a bit still)
Rubber Gloves (if you want)
Wrenches ( 10mm and 18mm)
Torx wrenches (I believe a T30 and T25 for the way I am about to show you)
Rags or paper towels
Scissors
If you are replacing the pressure regulator, you need one of those too.
Not too many tools needed at all.
Pop the hood and glass because you are lifting a c4.
Jack up and support your car giving you room to work under the general area.
Notice the bracket which holds the filter in place. Take this off with a 10mm.
With the container under the filter, take the 18mm and remove the lower nut on the filter. Fuel will leak down for a while. If the drizzle is too slow, pull the line out some more.
If you are doing this in a garage like me, you will need to keep the doors wide open with a fan circulating the fumes out.
Go get a coffee or chips in the kitchen while you wait.
Now back to the top of the engine.
Remove the fuel rail covers.
T25 removes the fuel line bracket (I have already loosened this before taking the picture).
The line you want to focus on is the one without the regulator on it. If you would like to replace the regulator too, now is a great time to do this.
This is the fuel pressure regulator and from Autozone, will run you about $50 after taxes.
OH! There is also a rubber bracket which holds the two fuel lines together and a plastic bracket which attaches to the side of the engine bay… follow the lines to make sure at least the fuel line with the filter is completely free to move around. I cut the zip tie with scissors and pulled the rubber deal off. A 10mm will remove the sidewall bracket (mine was broken anyway, sorry no picture).
With the filter line free to move around, you can rotate the line going into the fuel rail with your fingers.
This will drop the filter down to where you can fit a wrench on the upper sliding nut! Go ahead and take off the filter.
New parts rock.
You can replace the zip tie, but it will stay on without it. I left mine on, but not zip-tied.
BAM! Now put it all back together! See, that was easy as pi… 3.1415….
I have always found pi easier than pie. MMMMM pie. Oh snap! Pizza pie! I am strange.
The following users liked this post:
corvettefan66 (05-05-2016)
06-09-2010, 07:32 AM
#3
Le Mans Master
Couldn't help not to comment on the look of your garage.....It looks exactly like mine...bikes, red power unit, crowded, etc.
Thats the way most of us change the fuel filter. It still takes me about an hour (start to finish).
Thats the way most of us change the fuel filter. It still takes me about an hour (start to finish).
Last edited by runner140*; 06-09-2010 at 07:34 AM. Reason: spelling
06-09-2010, 10:48 AM
#4
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Aug 2004
Location: Metairie Louisiana
Posts: 5,141
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on
4 Posts
Back from 2006...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...placement.html
convertible fuel filter replacement
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
convertible fuel filter replacement
Replaced the fuel filter yesterday. It took less that two hours. With the proper tools and knowledge it could be done in about an hour or so. I pulled the car up on some plastic Rhino ramps I picked up from Autozone for $30. I then pulled the FP1 fuse and ran the engine till it died. Next I tried to start it a few more times to clear out all the fuel. Then I removed the fuel line in the engine compartment with one of those plastic Lisle tools from Pep-boys. (Be carefull some fuel will still shoot out under pressure. Then I completely removed one side of the x-brace (14 bolts). Next I unbolted the circular bracket that holds in the fuel filter. I then unbolted the bottom line with a 19 wrench to hold the filter and a 5/8 wrench to unscrew the line bolt. There is also a factory rubber peice with a tie wrap around it that must be removed to seperate the incoming and return fuel lines. After all these connections are loose the fuel filter slips out easily from below. Install the new fuel filter once the old one and the upper line have been removed. To reinstall simply reverse the steps.
__________________
Where were you back then, huh?
Yours is a nice writeup with excellent pics though. Good Job!
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...placement.html
convertible fuel filter replacement
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
convertible fuel filter replacement
Replaced the fuel filter yesterday. It took less that two hours. With the proper tools and knowledge it could be done in about an hour or so. I pulled the car up on some plastic Rhino ramps I picked up from Autozone for $30. I then pulled the FP1 fuse and ran the engine till it died. Next I tried to start it a few more times to clear out all the fuel. Then I removed the fuel line in the engine compartment with one of those plastic Lisle tools from Pep-boys. (Be carefull some fuel will still shoot out under pressure. Then I completely removed one side of the x-brace (14 bolts). Next I unbolted the circular bracket that holds in the fuel filter. I then unbolted the bottom line with a 19 wrench to hold the filter and a 5/8 wrench to unscrew the line bolt. There is also a factory rubber peice with a tie wrap around it that must be removed to seperate the incoming and return fuel lines. After all these connections are loose the fuel filter slips out easily from below. Install the new fuel filter once the old one and the upper line have been removed. To reinstall simply reverse the steps.
__________________
Where were you back then, huh?
Yours is a nice writeup with excellent pics though. Good Job!
The following users liked this post:
corvettefan66 (05-05-2016)
06-09-2010, 08:45 PM
#6
Le Mans Master
LOL...guess you haven't seen any of the recent prior threads where I already wrote something like this up (with pics)
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c4/bac522/technical.htm
Okay...you have a few more pictures.
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c4/bac522/technical.htm
Okay...you have a few more pictures.
06-27-2010, 04:15 PM
#8
Burning Brakes
Your method worked great ! Took about 2 hours , along with an oil change. An extra set of hands helped putting the filter back on and to line up the fittings.
