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Hi getting ready to replace ball joints and control arm bushings in my 93 corvette. I have a c press I used on my chevy blazer to replace its ball joints. The tech section shows use of a 20 ton press to press them. Will my c press work or do I really need the bigger press? Also any tips on doing it. For one thing I don't know what adaptor is needed to fit the press to ball joint. I guess that a socket or piece of pipe will work between them. the control arm bushings I'm replacing with Energy suspension polyurathane pieces. Would it be a good idea to drill through the old rubber bushings with a small drill bit a bunch of times to make it easier to remove them? I've read that you have to heat the alum. nut outside bushings to remove them. Can you reuse these nuts with new locktite? How good is it to add grease zerts?. I don't like that E.S. poly bushings have a steel inner bushing on a alum control arm but Even if you drill a hole in inner bushing to lube it , the bushing can rotate cutting off grease to this area anyway. Thanks for your help Tim
check out the "sticky" at the top of the tec forum page that says; "LT4 suspension rebuild" it's got lots of good info on this exact subject. Good Luck.
I did mine a few years back. I did drill and torch the old bushings out and then press them out, just make sure you have the travel on your press the tonage is not important. I remember I had some pipes that worked in my press to push the old ones out.
The problem I have with buying those NOS arms is that since they've been sitting around for possibly 20 years that the original bushings in them are deteriorated and cracked just from age alone.
I like Energy Suspension and will buy the kit to do my complete rears.
From: Southside of Western Norte Americano State of Confusion, ColoFornia
St. Jude '13
The Sticky as mentioned above is very well done.
I bought a small harbor freight press and did all of my suspension with it.
it is actually pretty easy and straightforward.
If I were doing it over.. I would get a tube of the bushing lube from energy or whoever sells the kit to lube the urethane bushings those little tubes dont seem like enough grease to me.
If you need any help with that proceedure, just shoot me an E-mail and I'll do what I can. I haven't been around here much lately since the build but always willing to lend a hand to a fellow CF member!
Thanks for the replies. I seen those nos arm's but I wanted polyurathane bushings. The poly bushings free up the suspension [if you can keep them greased!] and maybe might last longer. Also I have metal polished my old arms, they look great and don't want to have to redo that work again. I've seen the lt4 sticky,will check it again. also there was a corvette magazine artical that helped.They had a tip about using a pipe with slit cut lengthwise in it to fit between arms to keep from crushing arms when pressing. When it comes to grease I was going to put grease zerts in arms and buy a good grade of marine grease to grease them with often. Don't think they sell that special grease [they never give you enough anyway] for a grease gun anyway. Did any of you reuse the old alum. nuts on top? Also I saw a post awhile back had something about having to grind clearance for Energy supension bushings. I think it was to the side of the bottom bushings so the bushing didn't rub in frame pocket. Anyone know anything about that? Thanks Tim
I know this is an old thread but I thought I would add a helpful tip. I used a 1 1/4" hole saw to make quick work of cutting through the bushing; it is the exact size needed to not cut into either edge where the pilot drill keeps it centered in the metal centerpiece.
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