Doing a complete brake overhaul.....pads, rotors, calipers. Prior to removing the old caliper the brake line is removed. What do I do with the brake line? Allow the fliud to run out? Plug it??? Don't worry about it? When I reconnect the brake line to the rebuilt or replacement caliper how do I replace the fliud. Do I add fluid to the master cylinder and bleed caliper until all the air is out or what? What's the process? Thanks for your Help.

 

I tie wrap the flexible line to a suspension part pointing upward so it does not leak.
Add fluid to the master cylinder and bleed caliper until all the air is out.

 

Since you are redoing the brakes might be a good time to add new hoses and flush all the fluid too.

 

This is disturbing at best.

Are you suggesting that you do not have any knowledge of how to bleed brakes???

If that is the case....please go slow and allow us to help you as brakes are nothing to get it wrong on the first try.

Your Master Cylinder has two opaque cups with black lids sitting on top of them and it is located on the drivers side firewall......Just in front of where you'd be looking while sitting in the drivers seat.

Once you open these cups you'll see fluid....or your case where fluid used to be. That Fluid will be dark brown.....all that fluid needs to go away and it will as you bleed the brakes and add new fluid.........for this job you might as well go buy the large 32Oz bottle of DOT 3 brake fluid.

I am going to back off at this point and give you a chance to correct me if I read your initial post incorrectly. Please tell me if I am talking down to you or you feel I am being condescending.

Honestly, Not knowing where brake fluid is added is a big red flag for me hearing that you've taken caliper lines loose.

Bleeding brakes is a technique that is difficult to relay over the net, however, seeing it done and understanding about a singe air bubble in the lines will mean failure....you can learn to bleed brakes with help......but I would like to hear from you first if you've done such a procedure prior to now

 

I appreciate you erring on the side of caution. Perhaps I didn't do a good job of articulating exactly what my question/need is. I know where most brake components are and have done many brake jobs.......mostly pads/rotors. It's been a while since I bled brakes. Last I tried I loosened the bleeder valve, attached a clear tube, dropped it down into the bottom of a clear vessel. Had someone pump the brake pedal lightly while keeping master cylinder full with fresh fluid. Continue to pump until no air bubbles are present in vessel filled with fluid. Never did a caliper rebuild/replace so never any need to remove the brake line from the caliper. Wasn't sure what to do with the brake line after removing from the caliper. I can suspend it high enough so not all fluid leaks out, reattach and bleed as usual. The one member said he elevates the brake line. So, I can reattch and bleed as usual. Can I use the method described? Thanks for your thoughtful response.

 

Get some Speedbleeders, that will make the job very easy.
http://speedbleeder.com/

 

Sheeeww!!!!

Good........thanks for clearing it up for me. Asking questions when you are just needing a sanity check is always great with me. I do it as well. Some times it makes it sound as if I am not knowledgeable as to what I am doing when in reality I am just needing a second pair of eyes or another prospective on what I am doing.......

That being said, other than the fluid making a mess, I wouldn't worry about it at all...it is old and nasty.....let it run out if it wants.

It is corrosive to paint etc. so watch where it goes

Just get it all back in place (calipers, pads, brake lines) and then worry about the bleeding process from that point on.....

Sorry for questioning you

 

Just a thought...

As you set out to rebuild the calipers you will come to the point of having to get the pistons out of the cylinders. One of my blowguns has a rubber conical snout on it and it makes a good enough seal on the brake line in hole on the caliper to blow the cylinders out. But I've found that no matter the condition of the caliper on a twin piston caliper there will always be one that moves first. If you let it blow all the way out before the other is out then the other one will be harder to remove. So use about 10-15 PSI of air and use a small block or old pad or even your hand to hold back the pistons so that they both come out together.

 

I don't agree; you really want to minimize your fluid loss at every step that you open a hydralic line to ensure a painless bleeding process.
Just taking everything apart and letting it drain is asking for trouble.
I do one caliper at a time, then bleed that line(using Speedbleers) before moving on and disassembling another caliper or line. Minimal fluid loss=minimal bleeding problems. If you want to replace all the fluid(except ABS) do it thru a controlled bleeding process.

 

^^ you can disagree all you like, but this is where we part....I've never needed any gadgets to bleed a simple hydraulic line.....whether it was full or empty when I started. Speedbleeders aren't needed for a simple 20 minute process.......but that 20 minute process seems to elude Tons of folks for some reason.

There was ONE time I had trouble with a Hydraulic line......it was on the front disk brake on my '84 Kawasaki KX125........and the issue was that THEY had a design flaw that captured air right at the top of the line by the MC.....you had to crack that connector and let the last tiny bubbles out at that point. Once someone showed me that trick, I got a firm front brake.

That was the only time I've not been able to use the "Pump, Hold, release" command, method to bleed a simple line.

Saving the old fluid is a futile practice.....once the system is breached at any point....a full "proper" bleed is in order from that point forward. How much air is in the line makes no difference, Getting it all out does.

 

First rule of thumb.......never assume. I don't know a frction of technical terms used in the forum or where half the stuff is located. My knowledge is basic. Enough to fudge my through most things. Trying to learn more though. I happen to know 'old school' bleeding techniques but the opposite could have been the case. Thanks

 

I was viewing a DIY on this process a couple days ago. Anyhow, today had the caliper out and put the process to test. Yeah, you're right about one piston exiting first. That thing came flying out....too much psi. I got the other one out after placing the piston that just shot out back in. Placed a terry towel over the piston heads then applied pressure. It'll be easier next time. Thanks for the tip!!!!!

 

I have four to do so I'll give them a look. Thanks.