C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Left rear wheel clicking

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Old Jul 5, 2010 | 02:39 PM
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Default Left rear wheel clicking

Was doing some quick driveing thru the mountains today and my left rear wheel started makeing a very heavy clicking sound like there was a big rock in the tire.

Every time i turn it to the left it gets louder im i right to guess a bad wheel bearing?
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Old Jul 5, 2010 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Hokies83
Was doing some quick driveing thru the mountains today and my left rear wheel started makeing a very heavy clicking sound like there was a big rock in the tire.

Every time i turn it to the left it gets louder im i right to guess a bad wheel bearing?
Yup. Jack it up and wiggle it to check.
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Old Jul 5, 2010 | 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Pete K
Yup. Jack it up and wiggle it to check.
Do they sell the bearing because ive been checking and only finding whole
Rear Hub and Bearing Assembly's?
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Old Jul 5, 2010 | 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Hokies83
Do they sell the bearing because ive been checking and only finding whole
Rear Hub and Bearing Assembly's?
Sealed is the only way they are sold. Diagnose, then purchase.
If shot, be prepared to buy both sides. They wear out together.
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Old Jul 5, 2010 | 04:23 PM
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And don't forget to go to the chevy dealership and get the 2 teflon washers that go in each side or you will be tearing it apart again real soon...WW
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Old Jul 5, 2010 | 04:34 PM
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You could look at a WBI bearing hub from Summit. It is USA made with *** bearings.
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Old Jul 5, 2010 | 04:40 PM
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Hub Assembly – Rear Suspension Hub Assembly, Rear Suspension, 1984-1996 (GTG0501) GM #7470501
Teflon-coated washer. GM #14076924 (WW7 )

36 MM. Deep well impact 1/2” drive socket
Torx T55 - 3/8” drive socket

BTW The FSM specs a certain GM goo for the wheel speed sensor. I used a smack of common blue RTV no troubles.
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Old Jul 5, 2010 | 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 94z07fx3
Hub Assembly – Rear Suspension Hub Assembly, Rear Suspension, 1984-1996 (GTG0501) GM #7470501
Teflon-coated washer. GM #14076924 (WW7 )

36 MM. Deep well impact 1/2” drive socket
Torx T55 - 3/8” drive socket

BTW The FSM specs a certain GM goo for the wheel speed sensor. I used a smack of common blue RTV no troubles.
So, you're supposed to seal that sensor when you bolt it back on? I just cleaned it up and bolted it back on without any goo. Nobody must be putting any sealant on since I've never read anything about it in the writeups on replacing a rear hub.
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Old Jul 5, 2010 | 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by joshwilson3
So, you're supposed to seal that sensor when you bolt it back on? I just cleaned it up and bolted it back on without any goo. Nobody must be putting any sealant on since I've never read anything about it in the writeups on replacing a rear hub.
Two thoughts: It isn't critical. GM writes manuals and proceedures that must cover a wide range of geography and driving conditions.

Maybe it's a road salt thing? Maybe it's a vibration thing? I don't know.

EDIT:

Ok so I looked it up.

94 FSM 5E2-144
Notice: ... Wheel speed sensors must be given an anti-corrosion coating before installation to prevent galvanic corrosion. Do Not use grease. Use sealer, GM P/N 12345489 or equivalent.

Last edited by 94z07fx3; Jul 5, 2010 at 05:10 PM.
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Old Jul 5, 2010 | 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 94z07fx3
Two thoughts: It isn't critical. GM writes manuals and proceedures that must cover a wide range of geography and driving conditions.

Maybe it's a road salt thing? Maybe it's a vibration thing? I don't know.

EDIT:

Ok so I looked it up.
Thanks. That's good to know. I did wonder what that yellow gunk was around the sensors.
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Old Jul 5, 2010 | 05:38 PM
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OP: Do you have the backoff protector and its cotter key installed?
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Old Jul 5, 2010 | 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 94z07fx3
OP: Do you have the backoff protector and its cotter key installed?
Yes the vid was just me getting it tight.
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Old Jul 5, 2010 | 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Hokies83
Yes the vid was just me getting it tight.
Certainly I hope you've got a solid fix that will last years and years. However, I am puzzled as to why it went from no clicks to clicks that were caused by the axel nut being backed off while the nut was protected from backoff.

IMHO, keep an eye on it and if it exhibts symptoms again at least tear into it and eyeball everything.

Congrats on the fix and good luck!

BTW I bought my last bearings at O'Reily's for <$90
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Old Jul 5, 2010 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 94z07fx3
Certainly I hope you've got a solid fix that will last years and years. However, I am puzzled as to why it went from no clicks to clicks that were caused by the axel nut being backed off while the nut was protected from backoff.

IMHO, keep an eye on it and if it exhibts symptoms again at least tear into it and eyeball everything.

Congrats on the fix and good luck!

BTW I bought my last bearings at O'Reily's for <$90
When I did mine. I made sure to torque that nut down. I believe the spec is around 166 ft/lbs. But I went to 185 ft/lbs. Some guys torque theirs to 200 ft/lbs. They say the book says to torque it with the wheel off the ground.

I also used a large cotter pin and made sure that retainer was on there tight. As I noticed one of the retainers was loose as that is the side the PO had ujoints replaced. I figure if the retainer is on there loose, then it can/will let the nut back off.
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Old Jul 5, 2010 | 08:44 PM
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Sorry to tell you but you probably just masked your bearing problem.
Since I've had 2 fail on my 92 I'll bet the loose axle nut was symptomatic of a seperated bearing.
First one I pulled the nut off and the hub came off in two pieces.
Second one the inner race came apart.

Good luck, keep a good eye on it.
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Old Jul 5, 2010 | 09:32 PM
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Normally when those nuts get loose its because the bearing is bad & has excessive play/movement.I bet that soon you will have the same problem again.Sorry for being negitive,just speaking from experience
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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 12:20 AM
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Those vice grips are no way close to the torque required for that nut.

There, 164 ft lbs are required.
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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by PLRX
Those vice grips are no way close to the torque required for that nut.

There, 164 ft lbs are required.
I locked the vice grips then got a wrench on it and TQ it down as hard as i could.
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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 05:49 PM
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Come on Hokies go by a 36mm 1/2 inch drive socket & breaker bar and do the job right.
I will say if I found that on my car I would remove the hub for an inspection rather then just tighten the nut and keep driving on it.

Last edited by floridamale; Jul 6, 2010 at 06:02 PM.
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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by floridamale
Come on Hokies go by a 36mm 1/2 inch drive socket & breaker bar and do the job right.
I will say if I found that on my car I would remove the hub for an inspection rather then just tighten the nut and keep driving on it.
We checked the bearings and they all seemed just fine.
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