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Was doing some quick driveing thru the mountains today and my left rear wheel started makeing a very heavy clicking sound like there was a big rock in the tire.
Every time i turn it to the left it gets louder im i right to guess a bad wheel bearing?
Was doing some quick driveing thru the mountains today and my left rear wheel started makeing a very heavy clicking sound like there was a big rock in the tire.
Every time i turn it to the left it gets louder im i right to guess a bad wheel bearing?
36 MM. Deep well impact 1/2” drive socket
Torx T55 - 3/8” drive socket
BTW The FSM specs a certain GM goo for the wheel speed sensor. I used a smack of common blue RTV no troubles.
So, you're supposed to seal that sensor when you bolt it back on? I just cleaned it up and bolted it back on without any goo. Nobody must be putting any sealant on since I've never read anything about it in the writeups on replacing a rear hub.
So, you're supposed to seal that sensor when you bolt it back on? I just cleaned it up and bolted it back on without any goo. Nobody must be putting any sealant on since I've never read anything about it in the writeups on replacing a rear hub.
Two thoughts: It isn't critical. GM writes manuals and proceedures that must cover a wide range of geography and driving conditions.
Maybe it's a road salt thing? Maybe it's a vibration thing? I don't know.
EDIT:
Ok so I looked it up.
94 FSM 5E2-144
Notice: ... Wheel speed sensors must be given an anti-corrosion coating before installation to prevent galvanic corrosion. Do Not use grease. Use sealer, GM P/N 12345489 or equivalent.
Certainly I hope you've got a solid fix that will last years and years. However, I am puzzled as to why it went from no clicks to clicks that were caused by the axel nut being backed off while the nut was protected from backoff.
IMHO, keep an eye on it and if it exhibts symptoms again at least tear into it and eyeball everything.
Congrats on the fix and good luck!
BTW I bought my last bearings at O'Reily's for <$90
Certainly I hope you've got a solid fix that will last years and years. However, I am puzzled as to why it went from no clicks to clicks that were caused by the axel nut being backed off while the nut was protected from backoff.
IMHO, keep an eye on it and if it exhibts symptoms again at least tear into it and eyeball everything.
Congrats on the fix and good luck!
BTW I bought my last bearings at O'Reily's for <$90
When I did mine. I made sure to torque that nut down. I believe the spec is around 166 ft/lbs. But I went to 185 ft/lbs. Some guys torque theirs to 200 ft/lbs. They say the book says to torque it with the wheel off the ground.
I also used a large cotter pin and made sure that retainer was on there tight. As I noticed one of the retainers was loose as that is the side the PO had ujoints replaced. I figure if the retainer is on there loose, then it can/will let the nut back off.
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St. Jude Donor '12
Sorry to tell you but you probably just masked your bearing problem.
Since I've had 2 fail on my 92 I'll bet the loose axle nut was symptomatic of a seperated bearing.
First one I pulled the nut off and the hub came off in two pieces.
Second one the inner race came apart.
Normally when those nuts get loose its because the bearing is bad & has excessive play/movement.I bet that soon you will have the same problem again.Sorry for being negitive,just speaking from experience
Come on Hokies go by a 36mm 1/2 inch drive socket & breaker bar and do the job right.
I will say if I found that on my car I would remove the hub for an inspection rather then just tighten the nut and keep driving on it.
Last edited by floridamale; Jul 6, 2010 at 06:02 PM.
Come on Hokies go by a 36mm 1/2 inch drive socket & breaker bar and do the job right.
I will say if I found that on my car I would remove the hub for an inspection rather then just tighten the nut and keep driving on it.
We checked the bearings and they all seemed just fine.