93' LT1: Engine stalls out when hot.. HELP!
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6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 6
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From: Orange County CA
93' LT1: Engine stalls out when hot.. HELP!
Hello all,
So I have this major dilemma with my 93’ auto LT1 vette. This problem is intermittent and I don’t know how to solve it. To begin, I’ve owned my car for two years and have never had this problem with my car, when hot, dying on me. After driving around town running errands for about half an hour or so and making a few stops (4-5) and am ready to continue my day, the car starts up immediately then turns off. The engine rotates and starts, then dies. I try to start it a couple of more times but the engine only rotates as if there were no gas in my tank (which is not the case). I’ve taken it to my mechanic and he had the car for one week and couldn’t find one single thing wrong with it. He told me it was nothing electrical because he had his equipment set up to it while trying to recreate the problem. He thought it was the fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator, but turned out we ruled that out by checking it accordingly. My car has now been sitting at the Chevy dealership for 8 full days and they cannot figure out what is wrong with it. I have read this forum looking for any clues to what might be the problem. My SES light has been on for a few months and I have pulled code 32 and looked it up in my Haynes Repair Manual and found it to be “exhaust gas recirculation circuit” which goes on to say “replace EGR valve or ECM as necessary”. Also, my Service ASR light came on around the same time the SES light came on. Could a faulty EGR valve or ECM cause the engine to start and stop immediately? I really would appreciate any help. Thanks!
*to note, once the car starts up again (after a few tries over a 15-30 min time span) and runs good, the car never dies on me while I drive it.
So I have this major dilemma with my 93’ auto LT1 vette. This problem is intermittent and I don’t know how to solve it. To begin, I’ve owned my car for two years and have never had this problem with my car, when hot, dying on me. After driving around town running errands for about half an hour or so and making a few stops (4-5) and am ready to continue my day, the car starts up immediately then turns off. The engine rotates and starts, then dies. I try to start it a couple of more times but the engine only rotates as if there were no gas in my tank (which is not the case). I’ve taken it to my mechanic and he had the car for one week and couldn’t find one single thing wrong with it. He told me it was nothing electrical because he had his equipment set up to it while trying to recreate the problem. He thought it was the fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator, but turned out we ruled that out by checking it accordingly. My car has now been sitting at the Chevy dealership for 8 full days and they cannot figure out what is wrong with it. I have read this forum looking for any clues to what might be the problem. My SES light has been on for a few months and I have pulled code 32 and looked it up in my Haynes Repair Manual and found it to be “exhaust gas recirculation circuit” which goes on to say “replace EGR valve or ECM as necessary”. Also, my Service ASR light came on around the same time the SES light came on. Could a faulty EGR valve or ECM cause the engine to start and stop immediately? I really would appreciate any help. Thanks!
*to note, once the car starts up again (after a few tries over a 15-30 min time span) and runs good, the car never dies on me while I drive it.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
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St. Jude Donor '12
Welcome to my nightmare!
Codes - we don't get no stinking codes!
Replace ICM - I'm on my fourth or fith one
Replace Coil - I'm on my third one
Replace ECM - I've got two and it does the same thing no matter which one I use
Replace Opti - I replaced mine with a DynaSpark almost 4 years ago. They are supposed to be bullet proof.
On the egr code pull it off and use a small hand vaccum pump and see if the rod moves. I did this to my original EGR valve and I could hear it his inside the valve!
Oh yea - its impossible to diagnose, had the car running in the garage for 45 min and never skipped a beat!
Codes - we don't get no stinking codes!
Replace ICM - I'm on my fourth or fith one
Replace Coil - I'm on my third one
Replace ECM - I've got two and it does the same thing no matter which one I use
Replace Opti - I replaced mine with a DynaSpark almost 4 years ago. They are supposed to be bullet proof.
On the egr code pull it off and use a small hand vaccum pump and see if the rod moves. I did this to my original EGR valve and I could hear it his inside the valve!
Oh yea - its impossible to diagnose, had the car running in the garage for 45 min and never skipped a beat!
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 96,443
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From: Fort Knox, KY
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Inspect, troubleshoot, and replace your EGR solenoid switch and valve components since you've got a known code in that system.
I would also look at replacing your Ignition Control Module (ICM) as they can act squirrely when they're going bad and get under a hot voltage load. Bad ignition wires can also cause sputtering, hesitation, and engine stalling like your car is exhibiting.
Do the coil and plug wires have more than 60,000 miles on 'em? If so, they're out of their maximum service life, according to the GM Factory Service Manual (FSM).
I would also look at replacing your Ignition Control Module (ICM) as they can act squirrely when they're going bad and get under a hot voltage load. Bad ignition wires can also cause sputtering, hesitation, and engine stalling like your car is exhibiting.
Do the coil and plug wires have more than 60,000 miles on 'em? If so, they're out of their maximum service life, according to the GM Factory Service Manual (FSM).
Last edited by onedef92; Jul 16, 2010 at 01:34 PM.
Thread Starter
6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Orange County CA
Inspect, troubleshoot, and replace your EGR solenoid switch and valve components since you've got a known code in that system.
I would also look at replacing your Ignition Control Module (ICM) as they can act squirrely when they're going bad and get under a hot voltage load. Bad ignition wires can also cause sputtering, hesitation, and engine stalling like your car is exhibiting.
Do the coil and plug wires have more than 60,000 miles on 'em? If so, they're out of their maximum service life, according to the GM Factory Service Manual (FSM).
I would also look at replacing your Ignition Control Module (ICM) as they can act squirrely when they're going bad and get under a hot voltage load. Bad ignition wires can also cause sputtering, hesitation, and engine stalling like your car is exhibiting.
Do the coil and plug wires have more than 60,000 miles on 'em? If so, they're out of their maximum service life, according to the GM Factory Service Manual (FSM).
And I will definitely relay the tips to my mechanic and we'll see if we can figure this thing out because I know throwing money and parts at a problem is and can be costly... well maybe not in my case!
Thread Starter
6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Orange County CA
With that being said, I did have my water pump replaced 7 months ago. I've read a little on here that when the water pump goes out and leaks it could cause damage to the opti spark, which could in turn cause the stall I am experiencing??
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,022
Likes: 3
From: Chandler Arizona
for those in Arizona, ADS in chandler is the "BEST" place to go for this.
They found out a host of problems for me that I couldn't pin-point between myself and regular mechanics... all of which pointed to ignition components.
Thread Starter
6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Orange County CA
what you "really" need is a reputable electrican. Not just a regular mechanic.
for those in Arizona, ADS in chandler is the "BEST" place to go for this.
They found out a host of problems for me that I couldn't pin-point between myself and regular mechanics... all of which pointed to ignition components.
for those in Arizona, ADS in chandler is the "BEST" place to go for this.
They found out a host of problems for me that I couldn't pin-point between myself and regular mechanics... all of which pointed to ignition components.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,253
Likes: 2
From: Castro Valley CA
I could use a good magician, electrician myself in the bay area.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,022
Likes: 3
From: Chandler Arizona
I'm currently in Nor-Cal Myself (Pleasant Hill to be exact)! I actually do know of a very good electrican that was referred to me. I don't have any direct experience with these guys, but I've heard very good things!
Auto-Electric and Fuel
this shop is in Concord, California. This facility is also a training sight for other technicians!
ask for Doug Muller
http://www.autoelectricfuel.net/
Last edited by mnstrlt1; Jul 17, 2010 at 02:09 AM.
