Is there anyone out that would like to help me tune my 88? I have it all hooked up to the prgrammers from Moates and I just don't understand what the hell I'm doing. I'm located in Hamilton NJ.
I have lots of cold beer!!!!

Thanks,
Michael

 

Why are you tuning it? Bigger injectors, bigger cam?

 

I had a bigger cam put in years ago but now I just had the heads all cleaned up & ported out. Also I ported the intake plenium and the runners, new intake manifold ported and put a bigger throttle body on and removed the air pump and egr. New injectors also.

I was told tuning will make a big difference also.

 

Are the injectors bigger than stock? Are you having any drivability issues?

 

The injectors are the same as stock 24#. The only real problem I have is when the A/C is on and I come to a stop it will stall out most of the time. I have no codes and I also checked the IAC.

Am I wasting my time with the tune?

Thanks again.

 

Yea, probably. You need to figure out your idle issue. Do a search of setting base idle. You might aswell reset the radiator fan on and off temps, that will make your car run cooler.
If you start making mods to the car later, the ability to tune will come in handy.

 

Does this help you get started? (copied from another post L98 350 Tuner tips - orr89rocz):


Start with the base bin file for the car and tweak from there. Mainly dial in air fuel ratios at WOT across your rpm band and modify the timing table. People can set base timing to give 2-3 more deg of overall timing which can help increase power but they can not change the timing curve that way. The timing table in the chip is where you can get good gains. The stock timing table is pretty good in most areas except WOT. It brings timing in slowly. By 3000 rpms or so you want to be near your max timing...generally. A lot of motors respond well to this. Stock timing tables do not have max timing until almost at Max hp RPM which can be 4400-4800 rpm. Overall timing in the 35 deg range seems to work well on my Iron headed L98 fbody motor when I had it, and I brought that timing in by 3200 rpm. By 2800 rpm I had 32-33 so it was ramping in relatively fast. Really helped boost up the mid range torque.

Did the same thing with my 383 HSR motor. Loved 34 deg overall at peak hp rpm, but also showed good improvements with 34 deg being brought in by 3200 rpm.

My L98 with bolt ons ran alittle rich..in the mid lower 12's to 1 air fuel. Leaning that out some could help bring in more hp. 10-15hp probably can be found easily with tuning air fuel. Maybe more.

Factory tune is a closed loop tune during idle and part throttle operations. During WOT it ignores o2 sensor input and does a calculation from stoichiometric value of 14.7. Closed loop o2 sensor tries to keep air fuel around 14.7. Then during WOT, it uses % enrichments inputs from open loop tables and MAF sensor inputs if you are using MAF sensor. Older 86-88 MAF setups I believe have injector pulse width tables that can tune WOT as well as MAF tables. I'd leave MAF tables stock in this situation and tune pulsewidths.

There is also a power enrichment mode that is enabled under heavier throttle conditions. Its nice to use this table which is % enrichment vs rpm values to tune WOT on MAF setups. Reason is MAF's can run out of reading room on powerful motors. My 383 maxed the MAF out at 4500 rpms and 330whp. PE mode added the extra fuel needed to support 400whp at 6250 rpm and hold good power to over 6500 rpm.

 

Thanks to both of you for the help. What are good temp settings for the coolant fan?

 

According to my Haynes manual 85-87 turn on at 239 deg F via the ecm. 88 is 226 deg F.

Mine (I only have one) now turns on at 180 deg F. This was achieved by intalling an temp switch on the LH head and wiring it straight to the fan relay in parallel with the ecm.