Changed out the old brittle valve seals on our 86 today and got the driver's side done(hope my notes are good at getting everything back where it's supposed to go).
Now I am adjusting the rockers and having trouble turning the crank. I read on here where the crank bolt was a 3/4" but mine is a 5/8"s and one hell of a pita to turn to be able to properly adjust the rockers. The 1,3,5 and 7 plugs are out but I am having a hard time turning the dang crank with even a breaker bar. Any hints or help here?
Thanks

 

The nut is 5/8's, not 3/4 inch. PULL OUT ALL THE PLUGS!!!: Also be sure the transmission is in neutral.

Since you have done one side only, don't worry about adjusting the valves now. Finish the other side. THEN line up the timing marks and adjust half the valves. Turn the crank 360 and adjust the other half. I believe one of the Forum members (Joe C) have you the sequence to follow. If not, then PM with your email address and I will forward you instructions in a word document.

 

If it's a manual transmission take it out of gear (block the wheels to keep it from rolling). Also, take all the spark plugs out. Use something with a long handle. I used my torque wrench.

 

 

It is an auto. I marked the balancer with chalk, put straw into #1 then was able to wrench the mark around to tdc and felt the piston hit the straw. Did the 1e,3e,1i,5i and 7i and now about to go back out for another knuckle busting experience to get the other half of them done.
I want the car back on the road tomorrow so doing both sides is out of the question this weekend. I figure it will take me an hour or more just to put back everything I had to remove to get the valve cover off. I don't feel like messing with the egr pipe and a/c also today. lol

 

first of all, you can do it your way. You just have to adjust the valves. In order to do it, you should remove the rest of the plugs, but it's not necessary. on a cold engine, you can turn the engine an 1/8 turn and let the compression fall off, the move it another 1/8th turn.
If the engine won't turn, your wrench isn't long enough, you cdon't have enough leverage.
use the 1/2" breaker bar and a spark plug socket for the reach.

 

I am done adjusting valves but now having major headaches trying to get the cover back on. Geezus why did they make it so freaking tight?

 

Wow I was thinking about doing this myself but after reading your thread I think I might just pay to have my valve seal done, lol....

Hey but you saved yourself at least $800 bucks.

 

But I still have the passenger side left to do which of course also means battling the AC compressor and EGR pipe. The smoke has already diminished quite a bit so I may wait until cooler temps in the garage come to go after the pass side.
Don't let my words discourage you but let you know this job is no walk in the park. Make sure to tag every bolt you have to take off the remove or adjust brackets and window motor covers.
The driver side goes as follows...
Remove serp belt.
Remove two bolts and one nut on front of the air pump/alt bracket.
Remove two bolts going into the back of the alt and air pump where the brackets are. This will allow you to push the alt/air forward a couple of inches.
Then remove the two torx bolts in the wiper motor cover you can reach. There are three but that third one can only be reached by a team of smurfs carrying a 2" torx bit. Removing the two allowed me to slip the cover up and out of the way.
I unhooked the MAF, TPS and one other sensor from the wire loom that goes along the valve cover hoping to be able to pull the entire loom up and out of the way. You may have better luck than I did but one of the sensor plugs did not want to come loose along with the hook up on the cold start injector. I decided to go after the valve cover removal with these wires in place.
Remove the vacuum line going from the evap canister (I think) into a metal line ontop of the intake manifold.
Then comes the removal ofthe cover's torx bolts and the wiggling that ensues as you try to get the cover out. I tagged the spark plug wires and got them out of the way but the brake booster vacuum line to the plenm goes into a hard metal line so removing the rubber line from the booster proved to help very little.
After that you have the job of the valve seals which has been covered and covered.
Replacement of the valve cover gives you the feeling of being Indiana Jones trying to get the golden monkey head without triggering a booby trap. The rubber gasket will fall out numerous times so make sure to pick up some clothes line pins. I put two on each long side of the cover to hold the gasket in. It worked for me but I was almost to the point of super gluing that mother to the cover.
Once you get it on like it is supposed to go you let out a sigh of relief and question whether the gasket came off, you pinched a wire which will start a fire or you might have passed out dreaming it had finally landed where it was supposed to.
I joke about it but be ready. You will utter cuss words you thought only sailors used.
Good LUCK!

 

Geez, ALL That?
Right side:
just loosen the air conditioner and remove the serpentine belt, EGR pipe, remove the smog pump diverter valve and push the wires up and take off the cover. glue the gasket in 4 places on the cover, and reinstall. Use new gaskets on the EGR pipe. DO NOT BEND THE EGR PIPE, I DON'T HAVE ANY MORE TO SELL TO YOU.
Use a dentist's mirror all around the cover to ensure it's on there, and reassemble and tighten cover.
Left side:
Take off the alternator, and loosen the bracket. move the wires, schooch the rocker cover forward, and remove the cover. Glue the gasket in 4 places and manipulate it back on. use the dentist's mirror and tighten cover and reassemble.
BTW,
we smurfs have a union. just so you know, we don't work for free.........

 

I have not said this in years but here it goes "Holy Mackrel" lol

You Just made me feel more discouraged.

How come when I look at my engine it looks pretty easy to take of valve covers.

I was going to attempt to do mine this weekend but NAPA did not deliver my seals and valve compressor today so I am screwed and the 2010 Corvette Show and Go is next Saturday.

 

Thanks, that is more like it.

Do you or anyone else think that by changing the PCV valve and taking off the valve covers so see if holes are clogged can be causing smoke on start up?

 

The pass side wasn't as hard as I thought but I still have the oetiker clamp on the egr pipe left to do so I probably should keep quiet for now. I didn't have to do anything with the A/C just take off EGR pipe, remove some wiring/pipes and bend back the plug wire holders.
My question now is if anyone has a part number for the gasket that goes between the pipe and intake?? I have searched and even trusty old rock auto doesn't have one.

 

You could go to your local auto parts place and get a sheet of exhaust safe gasket material, then cut your own.

 

I just realized the egr supply tube gasket is included in the intake gasket set. I am going to go ahead and buy that since I already have new injectors to go in sometime soon.

 

And you thought life was a b****. See? free little gaskets make the sun shine bright.

BTW, I change out my right exhaust manifold for one off of a 89, and there are two of those gaskets, but the best thing is that you don't bend the pipe, and it comes off all the way, and you don't have to fight the tube while you do the back right side with is a pita anyway.

 

I actually got the oetiker clamp on fairly easy with the oetiker crimp tool. Just have to get it stated a little bit before you start trying then get it in place then crimp it down.
The problem now is when I cranked it up it didn't want to idle and died. I got it going by giving it gas when I cranked it but it still idles very rough. I checked the vacuum hoses and all the connections but it still is rough. I had to mess the wiring to the iac and tps quite a bit to remove and replace the valve cover so I guess I need to make sure they are ok. My biggest fear is that I have to undo my perfectly crimped oetike crimp to go back in and rechecki the rocker adjustment. ARGH!

 

It isn't throwing any codes and still is idling rough. Doesn't want to stay cranked at first and after a couple of minutes it finally holds idle but very rough.
Amy I looking at going back into the valve cover? Geez!

 

back to the original issue; back in the bad ol days we'd disconnect the coil wire and use the starter to bump the engine over, always got us in the ballpark. for what its worth, crank position for purposes of adjusting the valves is not that critical; it only requires that the lifter ride on the base circle part of the cam...which is a heck of a lot of degrees.

 

You have two top dead centers on each cylinder one is compression and one is the exhaust stroke. If you set the valves on the exhaust stroke then you will need to reset them.