Shooting fro the hip here.

Check the MAF for anything inside of it. Been there, done that. Had a piece of plastic on the coils. random as could be acceleration

Cats plugged? This will stop a car fast

exhaust in contact with anything? Had my air tube on the cat contact a bolt under the car after a speed bump had it's way. Could not go over 2K rpms.

Last I would suspect a fuel issue, but I have not been there myself.

When you cant get over 2600 rpms or whatever, can you free rev it over that?

As for the brake booster... Just a long shot. if you get the exhaust hot enough, you can crack the booster open. If your exhaust is this hot, clog cats could be more of an issue.
I have done this.

I dont know anything about your car so I am just running my mouth.
I could go down the freeway, get off, pull over and pop the hood at night and see my stock manifolds glowing. Short time later my cats fully plugged my car up.

 

Yes I can free rev it all I want ... Maf is spotless I used a whole can of maf cleaner on it days ago ...

Forgot to mention before that I put all new plugs wires cap rotor and coil did before all replaced...

Sometimes I can rev past that at WOT and it's fine ... ...

This thurs I will have a new exhaust put on ...get all my cats removed and go from there ...

 

I also remember reading about the coolant temp sensor doing something to these cars in a book once. I have not had that problem. read about putting a resistor in it as well to trick the car into thinking it is cold all the time (open loop?) is that sensor replaced?

 

have a new ac delco one.. gonna put in tommorrow..:/

this is real dishartening..

 

well put in.. no change..

can anyone explain the WOT dieing.. what would cause that?

ill be driving.. like 40 ish mph.. stomp it.. and she down shifts.. then sputters like she dont wana go anywhere.. wont increase in rpms.. or anything
BUT.. if i dont stomp it.. and give it some more throttle. she will increase speed and rpms..

it will do this all the time when hot i noticed.. sometimes it wont..

then ocationally if i do it.. it will almost stall out.. i let off and she comes back.. i touch the trottle even a little and she gonna die.. have to pull over.. shut car off.. she wont start.. let it sit for 1 or 2 min.. starts up she fine.. (at this point i dont wana stomp it.. in light of having to possible pull over again)..

any ideas?

just about every thing on the car is replaced.. pretty much only the MAF, ecu(new custom chip burned...86 car, auto trans, no egr, smog, vats, cold start inj, stock injectors), and the ignition module..

i never seam to have the scan tool hooked up when this happens.. im hopping i can get it to do it with the scan tool so i can read whats going on at that point..

let me know..

thx

brian

 

original injectors? have you tested them? I would think this is a fuel delivery issue, not a fuel management issue. You mention it dies on hard turns. Does your oil pressure also drop on those turns? how much fuel in the tank?

 

i think they are the original ones. . there are the multitech guys... or however u spell it..

cold and hot they all ohm out to 16.4-16.6

..i never flowed them for did anything... but at this point i really think ur right on with the fuel issues.. i have everything BRAND NEW on the ignition side... and its running rich.. (if 150 block learn is rich?)

im gonna get a set of the newer style injectors from fuelinjectionconnection.com if its not that.. im gonna burn the car down and collect the insurance..

 

Did you check the gap on those new plugs ? Not enough or too much effects Idle and WOT !
Factory settings could be different.
Also make sure all boots are pushed up all the way on plugs and distributor.
Sometimes the obvious gets overlooked !
Been there and done that .

 

never pulled the plugs to look but i gaped them before i put in.. i never trust them..

plug wires were off and on 15 times.. there not the issue..(even replaced them)

i noticed today though when i replace ignition module that one of the posts on cap was loose and wobbles..

its a problem.. but in no way would cause the symptoms im having fully..

 

could the base timing casue this issue?..

it seams more noticable now that if i go WOT.. it stumbles.. then takes off.. feels like she not getting fuel but then takes off.. or possible.. getting too much?

 

May I offer that your fuel pump may be bad. I have had them pressure test good and still be bad. If it is questionable (as in old) I would replace it. You could do all the pressure and leak down tests if you haven't already.

 

can u elaborate on these leak down tests and stuff? where i find how to do?? or can u explaine?

 

I am referring to the tests with the fuel pressure gauge, at idle, taped to your windshield while trying to recreate your problem, timing the pressure leakdown after shutdown.

 

oh.. well i know base pressure is good.. idle pressure is good.
and leak down takes a long time.. dosent just drop off..

never did the driving test one. though.. ill do that next week.. i also know at idle if i wack the trottle it dont seam all over the place.

 

Order the injectors yet? Even if it's not your problem, you can't go wrong with getting those multec's outa there. And get a new cap. Loose high voltage electrical stuff is never good when you get gaps and arcing.

Have you also checked your TPS voltage and gone thru that procedure? What a difference it made, even for stuff as simple as running the AC. While in there for the injectors, pull the TB and clean it good. Do a coolant delete while at it if it's still stock. 5' of 5/8 heater hose is all you need. Don't waste time with the hose bends and barbs etc..

 

Had the exact same problem as you , replaced every damn sensor switch and relay, cats too.
Chased after it for a looooong time.
(no codes)

It was the MAF the one thing I never replaced. P.O. had removed the screens at some point and damaged the filament..Car ran great most the time only once in awhile it would do what youre talking about then more and more often.
it would intermittently go dead lean and do the same thing youre talking about. Changed that AND the MAF relay together. Wasnt til I got it on a dyno and read the AF readout it made sense.

Car ran like a champ, finally I had a reliable car!!

Head gasket went shortly thereafter from being run to lean too long.

Sold it

Diagnose first, dont throw parts at it. (like I did)

 

i did actually diag it.. and followed it based on what the book told me.. i did basically what it said.. and well.. w/e not that big a deal

i guess i should look into someone close to where i live with an 86 to hook me up with a working maf?.. and relay so i can test it out?..

any one around? help a guy out..

sucks i had an opportunity to buy one new never used for 60 bucks but said eh.. yeah well..

well i think i gonna do injectors anyway.. cause it cant help..

and the maf an maf relay.. thx for all the help.. ill give an update when i get some money next 2 weeks and get this **** running.. i wana make a pass sometime this season

 

"well i think i gonna do injectors anyway.. cause it cant help.." HUH?? Then why do it, LOL.

Never ceases to amaze me how some just love to spend other folks' money.

Back when I had an 86 I bought a MAF at a local wrecking yard off a "F" body for $50.. It worked fine for years and was still going strong when I sold the car.

Jake

 

You can also check you're distributor module . My module connections were full of corrosion.

 

150 is Lean not rich and that BLM rarely snags the Integrator back to normal at that level so I'm guessing that's a stored, keyon, open loop #. If you're seeing 150 or more consistently at Cruise, it should be popping a 44, but you might try data logging while you drive it.

If you are lean and it smells or is obviously rich, it's dumping fuel it doesn't need. With headers, that's often because they're leaking at the head so re-torque and use quality gaskets, though some are so cheaply made or for a different application, you might as well go back to stock.

Falling flat when you floor it - if it's lean, is usually a plugged up fuel filter. Gets enough through until it needs a lot of gas and then it craps out. Replace, but flrst flush the line by removing the filter and putting a hose on one end and the other in a coffee can. Turn on the key and the pump should squirt maybe a qt in 2 seconds which often gets any line crap out. If you want to see if any is lurking above the filter, you'll need to disconnect at the rail and then follow the same procedure, this time with the filter in place of course.

MAF's can spit out the wrong air flow and the best way to figure that out is with a scan, datalogging and a spare MAF. My fully screened, new MAF consistently generates BLM's at around 130. My unscreened, stock original, is more consistent at 128. Either sufficiently corrects the INT for good driveability.

Other causes for Lean exhaust are outlined in the 44 troubletree, though if you have an '89, I wouldn't ignore the probability of blown head gasket. The headers might also be a problem if they're allowing more air flow than the injectors can handle, but I think you've got something a little simpler than that.