What controls engine firing at idle?
Never ceases to amaze me how some just love to spend other folks' money.
Back when I had an 86 I bought a MAF at a local wrecking yard off a "F" body for $50.. It worked fine for years and was still going strong when I sold the car.
Jake
i ment can help... not cant.. typo... idk when or if they were ever changed.. so i just wana take care of it..
If you are lean and it smells or is obviously rich, it's dumping fuel it doesn't need. With headers, that's often because they're leaking at the head so re-torque and use quality gaskets, though some are so cheaply made or for a different application, you might as well go back to stock.
Falling flat when you floor it - if it's lean, is usually a plugged up fuel filter. Gets enough through until it needs a lot of gas and then it craps out. Replace, but flrst flush the line by removing the filter and putting a hose on one end and the other in a coffee can. Turn on the key and the pump should squirt maybe a qt in 2 seconds which often gets any line crap out. If you want to see if any is lurking above the filter, you'll need to disconnect at the rail and then follow the same procedure, this time with the filter in place of course.
MAF's can spit out the wrong air flow and the best way to figure that out is with a scan, datalogging and a spare MAF. My fully screened, new MAF consistently generates BLM's at around 130. My unscreened, stock original, is more consistent at 128. Either sufficiently corrects the INT for good driveability.
Other causes for Lean exhaust are outlined in the 44 troubletree, though if you have an '89, I wouldn't ignore the probability of blown head gasket. The headers might also be a problem if they're allowing more air flow than the injectors can handle, but I think you've got something a little simpler than that.
last time i can remember im pretty sure the blm at key on engine off is normal.. then once started it goes up..
ill check again..
as far as the headers..i don't have any but stock manifolds.. with the air tubes cut out and welded shut..and very minor welding slag removal.. so they are smooth..
ill do a flush and filter and see what happens as well.. and it doesn't smell rich at all.. not even close..
so i wana say its lean.. from something else..
i wish i new someone with a smoke tester to see if there are vac leaks.. but i highly doubt it.. i am very meticulous when it comes to assembly.....

KOEO: COLD
Rpm 0
open loop
tps .54
IAC 160
O2 RDY NO
BASE P/W 0.0
DESIRED IDLE 3188 (WTF?)
COOLANT 23DEG C
MAF (gm/sec) 23
LOAD/LV8 0
KNOCK NO
PROM ID 4131
BAT V 11.7
02 V .398
INT 128
EXAUST LEAN
BLOCK LEARN 128
BLM CELL 0
O2 CROSS 0
DECEL ENLEAN 0
A/F LEAN NO
MAF 77 C
AIR FLOW (gm/sec) 61
SPARK ADVANCE 0
KNOCK RETARD 0
TIME 0:00
FUEL PUMP V 0.0
HIGH BAT NO
EGR DUTY CYC 0
CCP DUTY CYC 0
AIR DIVERT SOL DIV
VEH SPEED 0
TCC COMMAND - P1
4TH GEAR P2
A/C REQUEST NO
MAF BURN OFF OFF
EGR DIAG SWITCH ON (?? THIS RIGHT?)
AIR SWITCH SOL CONV
START COOLANT 23 C
FAN DC 100 (fan no running?? issue here?)
HI PS PRESSURE NO
P/N SWITCH -R-DL
TCC GROUND NO
O/D SWITCH ON
A/C CLUTCH OFF
KOER
i didnt write all down.. just the more important ones..
RPM 950
OPEN LOOP
TPS .56
IAC 18
INJ P/W 2.5
DESIRED IDLE 925
MAF 8
SPARK ADV 21
EXAUST LEAN
BLOCK LEARN 150
BLM CELL 0
KOER: CLOSED LOOP
RPM 950
O2 RDY YES
PW 1.9-2.0
iac 0
INTEGRATOR 133
o2 is switching from really low volts to high volts
O2 CROSS COUNTS 6( went from 0 up to 6 and every number in between.. not counting up though)
block learn is 150 solid (not moving
if i hold rpms up to 1000-1100
MAF/ airflow reads 11
if i hold rpms up to 1500-1600
maf/ airflow reads 16
if i wack the throttle
itegrator drops down to 128
block learn goes down to 138
blm goes up as high as 12 (varries each time)
iac at 0
KOEO: HOT
INTGRATOR 128
BLOCK LEARN 150
MAF 23
if there is anything you guys want me to try test out.. let me know
also.. i noticed that when i put car in rev, park, drive... the scanner shows now change in the p/n switch.. any ideas?.. switch no hooked up?
i had to put a new shifter cable in.. thats pretty much all i did with the trans there..


To Mustang eater,
the EGR valve sometimes sticks open, and your idle is ragged.
If worse comes to worse, and you haven't spent enough money,
Try buying a set of intake runner gaskets and an egr gasket, and remove the plenum, and clean out the egr valve.
If you use a vacuum hand pump, there is a calibrated leak internally on the valve so when vacuum goes away, it will close.
If there is exhaust scale and crud under the seat, it may stick open and cause an erratic idle because :
1.. it is a vacuum leak, and
2. it issucking it's own exhaust at the wrong time.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
ok.. so im driving.. hit a hard right or left turn and punch it.. and car basically dies... i hooked up a fuel pressure gauge.. and yeah.. pressure dies off.. (tank is full or low.. still does it)
any ideas?
im going with a bad fuel pump
also.. when the gauge is connected..and im holding throttle open a bit and hold it to 1500 rpms.. the pressure is jumping from 35 up really high.. vac is 19-20.. solid..
hopefully i find a vac leak tommorrow.. and can fix that issue.. but as far as the fuel pump?
also i just replaced the pulsator.. as it had a hole in when i frirst got car..
ok.. so im driving.. hit a hard right or left turn and punch it.. and car basically dies... i hooked up a fuel pressure gauge.. and yeah.. pressure dies off.. (tank is full or low.. still does it)
any ideas?
im going with a bad fuel pump
also.. when the gauge is connected..and im holding throttle open a bit and hold it to 1500 rpms.. the pressure is jumping from 35 up really high.. vac is 19-20.. solid..
hopefully i find a vac leak tommorrow.. and can fix that issue.. but as far as the fuel pump?
also i just replaced the pulsator.. as it had a hole in when i frirst got car..
as for the maf... tried it.. no change..
i really think there a vac leak at this point.. i dont have a clue what else it could be..
guy was too busy to hook it up today.. ( not that i didnt offer to do it myslef but people are so overprotective of there **** so w/e)
so i going monday.. im ordering new injectors monday and have to reseal my stupid intake.. in the rear she leaking... reallly pissed off about that but w/e.. its 12 more bolts to take that off lol... aside from draining coolant..
ill keep ya guys updated.. see what happens..
as for the maf... tried it.. no change..
i really think there a vac leak at this point.. i dont have a clue what else it could be..
guy was too busy to hook it up today.. ( not that i didnt offer to do it myslef but people are so overprotective of there **** so w/e)
so i going monday.. im ordering new injectors monday and have to reseal my stupid intake.. in the rear she leaking... reallly pissed off about that but w/e.. its 12 more bolts to take that off lol... aside from draining coolant..
ill keep ya guys updated.. see what happens..
My IAC was really dirty so I just picked up a new one for about $15.00 and cleaned our the throttle body while I had it apart with cleaner. Since then my car has not died at idle or stumbled when I take off from a stop.
Are you sure you need new injectors? While the engine is running put your finger on each injector and feel if the injector is vibrating/pulsing, I guess if you are going to take the intake apart you might as well replace them.





