C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

What controls engine firing at idle?

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Old Aug 28, 2010 | 09:13 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by JAKE
"well i think i gonna do injectors anyway.. cause it cant help.." HUH?? Then why do it, LOL.

Never ceases to amaze me how some just love to spend other folks' money.

Back when I had an 86 I bought a MAF at a local wrecking yard off a "F" body for $50.. It worked fine for years and was still going strong when I sold the car.

Jake

i ment can help... not cant.. typo... idk when or if they were ever changed.. so i just wana take care of it..
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Old Aug 28, 2010 | 09:13 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by twin540
You can also check you're distributor module . My module connections were full of corrosion.
did that done..
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Old Aug 28, 2010 | 09:18 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by SunCr
150 is Lean not rich and that BLM rarely snags the Integrator back to normal at that level so I'm guessing that's a stored, keyon, open loop #. If you're seeing 150 or more consistently at Cruise, it should be popping a 44, but you might try data logging while you drive it.

If you are lean and it smells or is obviously rich, it's dumping fuel it doesn't need. With headers, that's often because they're leaking at the head so re-torque and use quality gaskets, though some are so cheaply made or for a different application, you might as well go back to stock.

Falling flat when you floor it - if it's lean, is usually a plugged up fuel filter. Gets enough through until it needs a lot of gas and then it craps out. Replace, but flrst flush the line by removing the filter and putting a hose on one end and the other in a coffee can. Turn on the key and the pump should squirt maybe a qt in 2 seconds which often gets any line crap out. If you want to see if any is lurking above the filter, you'll need to disconnect at the rail and then follow the same procedure, this time with the filter in place of course.

MAF's can spit out the wrong air flow and the best way to figure that out is with a scan, datalogging and a spare MAF. My fully screened, new MAF consistently generates BLM's at around 130. My unscreened, stock original, is more consistent at 128. Either sufficiently corrects the INT for good driveability.

Other causes for Lean exhaust are outlined in the 44 troubletree, though if you have an '89, I wouldn't ignore the probability of blown head gasket. The headers might also be a problem if they're allowing more air flow than the injectors can handle, but I think you've got something a little simpler than that.
well ill have to get my dads comp and data log it..

last time i can remember im pretty sure the blm at key on engine off is normal.. then once started it goes up..

ill check again..

as far as the headers..i don't have any but stock manifolds.. with the air tubes cut out and welded shut..and very minor welding slag removal.. so they are smooth..

ill do a flush and filter and see what happens as well.. and it doesn't smell rich at all.. not even close..

so i wana say its lean.. from something else..

i wish i new someone with a smoke tester to see if there are vac leaks.. but i highly doubt it.. i am very meticulous when it comes to assembly.....
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Old Aug 28, 2010 | 12:46 PM
  #44  
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ok this is gonna be long.. but here it goes.. i got a bunch of numbers and stuff to say about what just happened.. i used a snap on "brick" scanner to get my readings.. any questions just ask. im pretty sure i can tell u anythign at this point.. it just dont make sense

KOEO: COLD


Rpm 0
open loop
tps .54
IAC 160
O2 RDY NO
BASE P/W 0.0
DESIRED IDLE 3188 (WTF?)
COOLANT 23DEG C
MAF (gm/sec) 23
LOAD/LV8 0
KNOCK NO
PROM ID 4131
BAT V 11.7
02 V .398
INT 128
EXAUST LEAN
BLOCK LEARN 128
BLM CELL 0
O2 CROSS 0
DECEL ENLEAN 0
A/F LEAN NO
MAF 77 C
AIR FLOW (gm/sec) 61
SPARK ADVANCE 0
KNOCK RETARD 0
TIME 0:00
FUEL PUMP V 0.0
HIGH BAT NO
EGR DUTY CYC 0
CCP DUTY CYC 0
AIR DIVERT SOL DIV
VEH SPEED 0
TCC COMMAND - P1
4TH GEAR P2
A/C REQUEST NO
MAF BURN OFF OFF
EGR DIAG SWITCH ON (?? THIS RIGHT?)
AIR SWITCH SOL CONV
START COOLANT 23 C
FAN DC 100 (fan no running?? issue here?)
HI PS PRESSURE NO
P/N SWITCH -R-DL
TCC GROUND NO
O/D SWITCH ON
A/C CLUTCH OFF

KOER

i didnt write all down.. just the more important ones..

RPM 950
OPEN LOOP
TPS .56
IAC 18
INJ P/W 2.5
DESIRED IDLE 925
MAF 8
SPARK ADV 21
EXAUST LEAN
BLOCK LEARN 150
BLM CELL 0

KOER: CLOSED LOOP

RPM 950
O2 RDY YES
PW 1.9-2.0
iac 0
INTEGRATOR 133
o2 is switching from really low volts to high volts
O2 CROSS COUNTS 6( went from 0 up to 6 and every number in between.. not counting up though)
block learn is 150 solid (not moving


if i hold rpms up to 1000-1100
MAF/ airflow reads 11

if i hold rpms up to 1500-1600
maf/ airflow reads 16


if i wack the throttle

itegrator drops down to 128
block learn goes down to 138
blm goes up as high as 12 (varries each time)
iac at 0

KOEO: HOT

INTGRATOR 128
BLOCK LEARN 150
MAF 23


if there is anything you guys want me to try test out.. let me know

also.. i noticed that when i put car in rev, park, drive... the scanner shows now change in the p/n switch.. any ideas?.. switch no hooked up?

i had to put a new shifter cable in.. thats pretty much all i did with the trans there..
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 10:17 PM
  #45  
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anyone?
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 10:58 PM
  #46  
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Well, Lopez, you hijacked this thread pretty well.
To Mustang eater,
the EGR valve sometimes sticks open, and your idle is ragged.
If worse comes to worse, and you haven't spent enough money,
Try buying a set of intake runner gaskets and an egr gasket, and remove the plenum, and clean out the egr valve.
If you use a vacuum hand pump, there is a calibrated leak internally on the valve so when vacuum goes away, it will close.
If there is exhaust scale and crud under the seat, it may stick open and cause an erratic idle because :
1.. it is a vacuum leak, and
2. it issucking it's own exhaust at the wrong time.
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 11:01 PM
  #47  
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yeah was not intended... just kinda happened that way.. i hope in some sort of way it helps him by my mistakes.. learning stuff.. etc..

and vise versa.
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 03:55 PM
  #48  
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It's sucking air - BLM of 150 that drops when you whack the throttle; ie, add a nice dose of fuel, is allmost always an air leak - so check headers, vacuum and throttle body or anywhere air can get in that isn't being metered by the MAF.
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Old Sep 1, 2010 | 12:22 AM
  #49  
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guess i gotta track down a smoke tester :/
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Old Sep 10, 2010 | 10:19 PM
  #50  
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new symptom... (getting smoke test done tomorrow)

ok.. so im driving.. hit a hard right or left turn and punch it.. and car basically dies... i hooked up a fuel pressure gauge.. and yeah.. pressure dies off.. (tank is full or low.. still does it)

any ideas?

im going with a bad fuel pump

also.. when the gauge is connected..and im holding throttle open a bit and hold it to 1500 rpms.. the pressure is jumping from 35 up really high.. vac is 19-20.. solid..

hopefully i find a vac leak tommorrow.. and can fix that issue.. but as far as the fuel pump?

also i just replaced the pulsator.. as it had a hole in when i frirst got car..
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Old Sep 11, 2010 | 06:03 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by lopezisgod
new symptom... (getting smoke test done tomorrow)

ok.. so im driving.. hit a hard right or left turn and punch it.. and car basically dies... i hooked up a fuel pressure gauge.. and yeah.. pressure dies off.. (tank is full or low.. still does it)

any ideas?

im going with a bad fuel pump

also.. when the gauge is connected..and im holding throttle open a bit and hold it to 1500 rpms.. the pressure is jumping from 35 up really high.. vac is 19-20.. solid..

hopefully i find a vac leak tommorrow.. and can fix that issue.. but as far as the fuel pump?

also i just replaced the pulsator.. as it had a hole in when i frirst got car..
Sounds like the fuel pump, one other thing to consider is the Mass Air Flow sensor. I heard symptoms of MAF sensors having problems like that.
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Old Sep 11, 2010 | 07:19 PM
  #52  
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well put a new pump in today.. runs great.. still got that stupid idle miss/stumble.. w/e we wana call it..

as for the maf... tried it.. no change..

i really think there a vac leak at this point.. i dont have a clue what else it could be..


guy was too busy to hook it up today.. ( not that i didnt offer to do it myslef but people are so overprotective of there **** so w/e)

so i going monday.. im ordering new injectors monday and have to reseal my stupid intake.. in the rear she leaking... reallly pissed off about that but w/e.. its 12 more bolts to take that off lol... aside from draining coolant..

ill keep ya guys updated.. see what happens..
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Old Sep 11, 2010 | 08:45 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by lopezisgod
well put a new pump in today.. runs great.. still got that stupid idle miss/stumble.. w/e we wana call it..

as for the maf... tried it.. no change..

i really think there a vac leak at this point.. i dont have a clue what else it could be..


guy was too busy to hook it up today.. ( not that i didnt offer to do it myslef but people are so overprotective of there **** so w/e)

so i going monday.. im ordering new injectors monday and have to reseal my stupid intake.. in the rear she leaking... reallly pissed off about that but w/e.. its 12 more bolts to take that off lol... aside from draining coolant..

ill keep ya guys updated.. see what happens..
Have you replaced the Idle Air Control? After I replaced the IAC my car has not actually died. Some times at idle the RPM's will adjust a little but I have decided it is just because this is technology from the 80's.

My IAC was really dirty so I just picked up a new one for about $15.00 and cleaned our the throttle body while I had it apart with cleaner. Since then my car has not died at idle or stumbled when I take off from a stop.

Are you sure you need new injectors? While the engine is running put your finger on each injector and feel if the injector is vibrating/pulsing, I guess if you are going to take the intake apart you might as well replace them.
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Old Sep 12, 2010 | 09:06 AM
  #54  
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heh.. every sensor on the car has been replaced at this point.. literally.. only thing is maf.. but i put in a good on and no change so thats eliminated.. at this point it either a vac leak or bad injectors..
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