I purchased a beautiful 1989 about 2 weeks ago. I LOVE IT!! Me being an ocd have researched and scoured the forums and web pages for what setups warrant what performance. I have around 5k to play with. I am looking to increase hp and tqs by at least 100 each. I don't want to sacrifice low end tq for more rpms or hp..(I like the miniram but I think I can build a system with good hp on top without loosing the tqs) I want to keep the tpi.

My vette is completely stock.. minus new K&N air filter. 100k on the car, heads have never been off, zf6.

I am thinking about the new BBK SSI intake(new plenum) with 58mm tb's(looks good too), 1.6 roller rockers(not sure who to go with), zz4 cam, pypes header back system(x-pipe), long tube headers.

After that I will have extra cash, would it be a good idea to overhaul an engine that is this old and with 100k?

I want the performance for auto x, occasional strip runs, and road courses. I want to maintain daily drivability.

I am also considering changing it to a 383 on top of those mods. I know there are threads that address topics like this, however I want some opinions on the mods mentioned and advice concerning parts and what not.

http://www.bbkperformance.com/produc...-manifold.html

http://www.pypesexhaust.com/sys-vette2.html

 

My first suggestion is to drive it 6 months, and see how much of that 5K you have to dump into replacement parts. Things like the clutch, wheel bearings, U-joints, shocks, and brakes/alternator are going to cut into that budget significantly unless you do it all yourself.

Secondly, a ZZ4 cam is a horrible waste of the BBK system, which removes your current plenum and runners. 58mm is unnecessary. I would never recommend someone go with a ZZ4 camshaft unless they just wanted a new cam for a stock engine.

 

Don't get in a big hurry and don't fall for gimmicks. You won't need a new throttle body to meet your goals.

If you want to add 100 chp and keep TPI concentrate your money on the very best heads / cam / exhaust system you can find.

In the meantime you can remove the frisbee, cut the filter lid, and get a new stock filter. Also do a throttle body bypass. It will make working on the car easier.

 

Wouldn't hold your breath ;
has been adv since Oct 2004 and still doesn't exist
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/po...3-post982.html

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/tp...ake-setup.html

 

A 383 with a miniram will have more torque (everywhere) than what you're running now. The longer stroke of the 383 makes up for any "loss" converting from a long tube to a short tube setup. The extra power of better heads/cam takes you up from there.

You could end up nearly 200hp higher if you go that route. (220rwhp stock, 420rwhp with a built 383).

 

Ditto, ditto. OTOH, rebuilding the motor would imply covering a lot of the things mentioned above. Get your U-Joints, clutch, drivetrain in shape to handle more power.

Add another $3-5k and you might have enough to do it "right". Then, plan on more money for a paint job interior restoration, etc...unless you want a sleeper.

 

 

Vader that is good advice, I have already replaced the alternator and master/slave clutch cylinders. The only thing that doesn't work on the car is the ride select.. which I am working on now.

I like the idea of rebuilding the engine and servicing old parts, didn't think about the U-joints. I also like the idea of a 383 with a miniram and good heads/cam. I think one thing that I will do now is headers and exhaust. Thanks all for the advice!

 

Start with exhaust (LT's and back) with a good short ram. Have the suspension etc. inspected to see what kind of condition everything is in. Look for a good heads/cam and then worry about the clutch. The TB bypass is easy and worth it find someone to port/polish the TB while you are at it. The exterior and interior are beautiful don't worry about those except for wheels

btw this is Ryan

 

I also have an 89. At 80,000 mi., 6 months after purchase, I had to replace the injectors and head gaskets. This is a very common problem. They simply rust out. The injectors get eaten up by the ethanol in the fuel. It will eventually give you problems. FIC injectors is very reasonable.
Great choice in the year!!!

 

Its funny you mentioned the injectors. They were all replaced on the car about a year ago, along with the fuel rails. The reciept shows that it was a 1200 dollar project.. Glad that has been taken care of. Not sure about the head gasket tho. One issue I am dealing with is oil leaks out of somewhere when I punch it, engine smokes from the passenger side. Initially I assumed it was the valve cover gaskets, however after more investigation it looks like the oil is coming out of somewhere below the valve covers. I can't quite pinpoint it. Normal driving everything is fine, only under hard acceleration does this issue present itself.

 

Good tip here!

 

Have a read on my web site...I don't know how much the pricing has changed since I did my rebuild but it gives you a good idea of what it takes and how much it cost me.

Most of the pertinent info is under "Recipe for a 400 HP L98". Part 2 has the list of parts we used (part #'s and cost). It is still a TPI, has great street manners and smokes most in it's path.

I went with TPIS longtubes with a Corsa LT1 dual exhaust. Used (2) Random Tech cats.

Good luck on the build

 

Torque your valve covers to factory specs (approx 8 ft. lbs.) to make sure they are tight & not leaking. If the white smoke is in your exhaust, you may need new valve seals & guides. Take a look at your spark plugs for tell-tail oil deposits.

 

Where did you get white smoke from??? The color white is not mentioned up til now....and white smoke usually implies coolant leaking into the cylinder -- not seal/guide leaks.

 

The color is not white, heh I don't know how to describe it.. kind of like a grey I guess. When I look into the engine compartment I can see oil residue on the outside and around the headers, and on the cat. I check the oil quantity everyday, hasn't shown any signs of needing refilling yet. I will torque the valve cover to spec pmihaltian. Thanks!

1991Z07 your page is very informative, I will definitely use your recipe as a reference point!

 

If you can pinpoint the oil as coming out of the dipstick, you might just get new hoses on your breather and the PCV valve. after 20 or so years, the deposits neck the inside of the tubes down, and it just can't breathe as good. Then, when you nail it, the extra pressure that blows by the rings has nowhere to go except dipstick and seals.

 

Come to think of it I have noticed oil coming out of the dipstick. I will have a friend rev the engine and see if anything is coming out of the dipstick. If that is the issue how hard would it be to replace the hoses the breather and pcv valve? I imagine it wouldn't to much of an ordeal.