C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Idle problem - part 2 (long)

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Old Apr 11, 2002 | 11:37 PM
  #21  
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Default Re: Idle problem - part 2 (8388) - I think I found it!

More than likely its a vacumm leak. The sensors and the ecm always try to correct for fuel and timing, when a vacumm leak is present it tries or attempts to keep the idle at the factory settings, but eventually it loses, so it searches for a correction again. It's like setting a plane on auto pilot without having the proper air speed.
Right under my nose all the time. I used my vacuum gage to check the line that feeds the AIR valves and the fuel pressure regulator - the one that attaches to the plenum towards the front. It wouldn't hold any vacuum! Traced it to the AIR splitter valve. It has a vacuum port (on top) that has a plug on it. The plug leaked - like it wasn't even there! Put a new plug on and it holds vacuum fairly well - bleeds down very slowly. I'll see what happens over the next couple of days. This may be my erratic idle problem. Maybe now I have "the proper air speed for an auto pilot" to hold - good anology, by the way.
Thanks for all the great replies.
:)


[Modified by Mike263, 9:37 PM 4/11/2002]
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Old Apr 15, 2002 | 09:57 PM
  #22  
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Default Re: Idle problem - part 2 (8388) - I think I found it! (Mike263)

Crap! I didn't find the problem. That vacuum leak wasn't it. Still got an erratic idle this morning in park: - 800rpm - 400rpm -800rpm - repeating. I turned on the A/C and it stablized at 600rpm after a few seconds. Turned off the A/C and it stayed stable at 600rpm. A friend suggested I change the base timing a little and see if it makes a difference - I went from 6 deg BTDC to 8 deg BTDC. Took it for a test drive (after resetting the ECM) seemed OK, but I'll need a day or two to really see.
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Old Apr 16, 2002 | 10:02 AM
  #23  
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Default Re: Idle problem - part 2 (Mike263)

Mike I still believe you have a vacumm leak. You mentioned in the begining of this thread the you started having the problems after the install of a new set of injectors. Check where the runners meet the plenum and the base.Check the area around the injectors. Check the hose going to the brake booster.
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Old Apr 26, 2002 | 09:56 PM
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Default Re: Idle problem - part 2 (Mike263)

Could a bad MAF cause the surging idle problem I have? I don't have any codes thrown. Maybe the wiring to the MAF?

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Old Apr 26, 2002 | 10:43 PM
  #25  
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Default Re: Idle problem - part 2 (Mike263)

I'd say it migh be running rich, I have had the same problem and the injectors were too large. An AFPR helped but wasn't the solution until I put the correct injectors in. It still searches alittle between 600 and 630 but nothing like it did before! I'm going to try some of the other suggestions made to you to even it out. Thanks.
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Old Apr 27, 2002 | 01:13 PM
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Default Re: Idle problem - part 2 (Mike263)

Could a bad MAF cause the surging idle problem I have? I don't have any codes thrown. Maybe the wiring to the MAF?
Lightly tap the MAF housing on the underside with the handle of screwdriver with the engine idling. If the engine stumbles, the MAF circuitry is bad.

Don't forget about what I said about the gaskets. There a total of six gaskets for the runners, two for the top (runners to plenum) and four for the bottom (runners to intake manifold base).

A quick look and you'd think they are interchangable side to side, but two of them aren't. If you mistakenly installed these two on the wrong side of the engine you'll get a vacuum leak and bad idle.

Another source is where the injector fits into the mainfold base. There are rubber "O" rings used to seal those spots, but sometimes the "O" ring can be left off, cracked or not seated properly. Spray some injector cleaner where all 8 enter the manifold and see if there's a idle change.

Check the power brake booster vacuum fitting where it screws into the plenum at driver's side rear. Could be a small leak there.

Underside of throttle body has a vacuum port (toward driver's side); check that the hose in connected there, also the EGR vacuum hose under the plenum.

Keep us posted.

Jake
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Old Apr 27, 2002 | 04:20 PM
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Default Re: Idle problem - part 2 (JAKE)

Thanks, Jake. I removed the injectors and reinstalled checking o-rings and new runner gaskets - yeah, I see that two of the bottom gaskets are different - got them in the right place.
All vacuuum lines are connected and I replaced almost all of them - vacuum tested each line. Can't tell about the brake booster - it looks ok.
Spraying throttle body cleaner around each injector didn't make any difference - no leaks found.
I have the stock fuel pressure regulator - not adjustable. Pressures check within spec. for stock.

Another data point: I set my base idle after the reinstall of the injectors. When I cranked the car up with the IAC closed and unplugged, the erratic idle was present! So it has nothing to do with the IAC.
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Old Apr 27, 2002 | 04:52 PM
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Default Re: Idle problem - part 2 (Mike263)

I suggest you look at the ignition system. Test your wires with an ohm meter. The longer the wire, the higher the resistence but they should be about the same ohms per foot. When were the cap and rotor replaced? You can have your ignition module checked at most auto stores for free. Pull the plugs to see if they all look alike. If one looks different you can narrow down the problem to that cyclinder. Keep us posted.
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Old Apr 29, 2002 | 09:26 AM
  #29  
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Default Re: Idle problem - part 2 (Mike263)

Hey Mike. I'll pass on what I learned recently with my 85. I've been fighting an idle quality problem too. I removed the throttle body and cleaned it. There was a lot of carbon on the back side. This helped, but I still had problems. This past weekend I replaced the valve seals, springs, and rockers. Huge improvement in idle. I read a post a while back where another forum member improved his idle by replacing the valve springs. Also found that I may have a burned exhaust valve. :eek: The cylinder checks OK on compression, but when I put air in the cylinder to hold the valves up, I could hear air coming out of the exhaust pipes. :cry
Hope this helps.
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Old Apr 29, 2002 | 10:09 PM
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Default Re: Idle problem - part 2 (85 Dave)

Also found that I may have a burned exhaust valve. :eek: The cylinder checks OK on compression, but when I put air in the cylinder to hold the valves up, I could hear air coming out of the exhaust pipes. :cry
Hope this helps.
This air sound is normal and doesn't indicate an exhaust valve leak if your compression test is good. I was worried about this when I used air to hold the valves up while doing my spring etc. and was told by other members that it was okay.
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Old Apr 30, 2002 | 09:14 AM
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Default Re: Idle problem - part 2 (Bluevette85)

This air sound is normal and doesn't indicate an exhaust valve leak if your compression test is good. I was worried about this when I used air to hold the valves up while doing my spring etc. and was told by other members that it was okay.
Hope you're right. I could hear air coming up from the crankcase on the other cylinders. I wasn't worried about that because the air is leaking past the piston rings and is normal. On the other 7 cylinders, the air compressor would kick on every 3-4 minutes and bring the pressure to 125 psi. On #2, it ran continously, and couldn't get the pressure past 100 psi. So #2 was using quite a bit more air than the other. Maybe a piece of trash was on the valve seat. I'll just watch it for now.
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Old Apr 30, 2002 | 02:30 PM
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Default Re: Idle problem - part 2 (Mike263)

Based on forum input (thanks, folks), I replaced my MAF this weekend.
I also replaced the MAF relays, to play it safe. Then I adjusted the minimum (base) idle with the new MAF.

The problem appears to have been fixed!!! WAHOO!

The old MAF (a rebuilt one about a year old) did not cause any error codes.
The biggest clue was the surging idle when the IAC was unplugged. This time (new MAF), with the IAC unplugged, I had a nice steady idle.

:)
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Old Apr 30, 2002 | 10:04 PM
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Default Re: Idle problem - part 2 (Bluevette85)

You've got to make sure that the lifters are on the base circle of the camshaft to insure they both are fully closed. Even a tiny bit open will result in compressed air getting by.

If you have doubts, remove the rocker arms completely from the suspected cylinder and make sure the piston is as close to TDC as you can estimate it.

Then, all you should hear is air escaping past the rings into the crankcase,which is normal.

If compressed air is still heard coming through the exhaust header, even with the rockers off and piston at TDC, well, you've got a leaking exhaust valve problem.

Keep us posted on what you find.

Jake
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