C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

brake hoses???

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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 01:23 AM
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Default brake hoses???

i have a 93 lt1 with 90k on the clock, i ordered and recieved ssbc stainless steel braided lines as a replacement for the old hoses. has anyone used these hoses? how do you like them? when i went to do the swap i tried tons of different sized box end wrenchs (english and metric) to get the old hoses off the hard line and none of the wrenches felt tight enough, i tried with one that was just a tad lose and didnt continue because i didnt want to round the nut, so does anybody know the right sized wrench??? and it felt incredibly tight and i didnt want to push too hard and break the hard lines, does anybody have any ideas here? id like to get the stainless lines on but really dont want to kill the hard brake lines... any help would be much apperiated, thanks!!!
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 04:49 PM
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Use a torch & heat-up the nut that threads into the brake hose.Best to get it almost glowing & I will guarantee it will come off no problem.Wear safety glasses.I live in Minnesota & use heat on very rusty brake lines & it works almost every time
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 04:54 PM
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Do not use a box-end wrench, those fitting are way too easy to strip. You need a flare-nut wrench. I don't remember the size, but almost certain it was metric.
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 05:24 PM
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They are definitely metric sizes of either 10 or 12. I now have 3 sets of metric flare wrenches because there is a difference in even the same size wrench.

My hard lines were very tight also. It was amazing how a good flare wrench works. In my early effort I was forced to use vice grips against my better judgment because they were so tight also. After having the right tool things worked better.

You might want to hold off and get good wrenches, not foreign junk.
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 10:51 PM
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alright, i tried english flare wrenchs last week before i posted, so i guess its back to the store for metric, i checked the metric wrenchs and i thinks its 12mm's but ill just get the multi-sized kit, if they absolutely wont budge ill try the torch, thanks guys
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by kuntput
alright, i tried english flare wrenchs last week before i posted, so i guess its back to the store for metric, i checked the metric wrenchs and i thinks its 12mm's but ill just get the multi-sized kit, if they absolutely wont budge ill try the torch, thanks guys
One word of caution concerning the torch, it will definitely get the lines loose, but wear safety glasses because the rubber hoses will often pop once the heat is applied.
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 10:39 AM
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I would try a week's worth of rust penetrant than use a torch on brake lines. Especially if I am going to drive the car.
The torch is for if you never again intend to use the parts you torched.
First of all, when you use a torch, you burn and coke up the fluid in the lines. Second, you take off the plated coating that keeps the lines from corroding inside, third, the lines won't be rust resistant and the water in the brake system migrates towards the wheel, and 4th, you take the heat treat out of the steel.
if you do get them cleaned out enough to use, it's not a wise choice....

Sorry, but there are other ways besides the "flame wrench" when it comes to brakes.
I used a "last ditch effort" wrench that gets tighter as you turn. It got them off easy. You have to thread the nut back on gently, and file off the burrs, but it is beter than a torch.
My car is 26 years old, and I did it 2 years ago. So I know what the problem is.

Calll me an old woman or whatever, brakes are safety equipment.
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