Ok which 1.6 RRs will clear the Value Covers with out cutting?

 

none

 

I heard there are some self aligning ones that will.

 

you have to cut the drip tabs off.. then there are some .. look for narrow body RR .. Crane golds and some Scorpions fit. I had Erson and had to get different valve covers.

 

Like so many universal answers, like "none", it's wrong. Doesn't apply in EVERY case.

Whether they clear or not depends on the covers and the rockers being used.

Perfect personal example: Last year I (we) installed new Dart heads, new cam and full Scorpion roller rockers (1.7 Intake/1.65 Exhaust; 7/16" versions) on my son's 96 LT1 Vette. The stock valve covers fit without any modification what so ever.

No thicker cover gaskets, no grinding, no anything. Just dropped them in place using the same cover gaskets that had been on the covers.

Now, different covers and/or different rockers can give different results. Those are mine.

Jake

 

He has magnesium valve covers from what I understand he will at least need to cut the drip tabs. I could be wrong but I looked long and hard.I tried a set. Those magnesium covers are pretty thick and the back of the rockers hit even after I trimmed the drip tabs.

 

Sure, quite possibly or even probably. In fact, on my 86 I had to grind away the drip tabs when I went with 1.6s and with my 388 I had to go with taller covers. AFR heads with longer valves called for that little move. Same rockers as Ryan's, but different heads; Ryan's on Dart Pro 1s.

Each engine can be different - as I explained about my son's 96 LT1 Vette - so I was primarily addressing the "none" response since there can be exceptions.

We're good.

Jake

 

I used the Proform 1.6 rockers.....They were affordable and work great .
I did cut out the oil drip tabs though.

 

I have CC 1.6 pro mags and stock valve covers for now...drip tabs were cut down. No issues.

 

now i have the composite covers on my 92 lt1 vet will i still have to clearance them also?

 

You should get a good set that everyone here is using and just cut the drip tabs. Your covers probably need to be stripped and repainted by now anyway, and dremeling out the inside is not a major job.

 

Stamped 1.6 roller tips will work

 

What Jake meant to say was that if you spend $1500 on a set of raised valver cover rail (typically 1/4") cylinder heads, then you don't need to cut a 1/4" off the drip tabs inside the valve covers.

 

this will work fine with Comp Rollers

 

I'm observing that for stock cylinder heads, the answer varies depending on perimeter-bolt (valve cover) L98, center-bolt L98, and composite LT1, LT4.

on my 91 L98 with the center-bolt factory magnesium valve covers, I had to grind out the drip tabs to clear the poly locks for my roller rockers (CC 1605-16, not "narrow-body", not self-aligning, but 1.6). make sure you have the 0.925" tall poly locks, not the taller ones. I ended up using the Crower ones that are 0.865" tall, very reasonably priced. for the GM C4 mag valve covers, especially for the rockers at the ends of the cyl head (where the VC slopes slightly), it makes a big difference.

and I had to squeeze the sheet-metal baffle, and grind the sides of the VC hold-down bolt pillars to clear the sides of the rocker bodies. this was more for getting wiggle-room for getting the valve covers on and off.

I went to 7/16" rocker studs, adjustable guideplates, hardened pushrods, and non-SA rockers.

I had a heck of a time getting good rocker alignment with the valve-stem tip with the CC 4800 guideplates on the 113 heads, so had to resort to adjustable guideplates. getting that adjusted was a very tedious endeavor. every time i'd go to final-tork the rocker stud, the guideplate would shift.

 

Thanks Bowtie8 for the info thats what i wld use i like comp products

 

You'll have to cut/grind off the drip tabs on the stock valve covers (if they're the magnesium ones) but if you have the later-style valve covers made of composite, you should be fine without having to modify anything, so long as you use narrow body, self aligning rocker arms.

Do yourself a favor though and buy yourself a quality set of rocker arms from a reputable brand name. Don't try and cut corners and buy a cheap set of rockers that are made in China, otherwise, you're just asking for trouble. Those things are a ticking time bomb ready to go off and can cause a great deal of damage if they do....

Stick with proven brands such as Crane, Comp cams or Scorpian and don't forget to upgrade/replace your stock valve springs as well. You may also want to consider adding new valve seals, caps, locks and valve cover gaskets to you list if you want to do the job right. These parts are all relatively cheap to buy and should always be changed if you're doing a rocker swap.


I just picked up some Scorpian 1.6 rocker arms, LT4 valve springs, Felpro valve stem seals, new caps and locks and will (hopefully) have time to do the swap while the weather's still warm outside. I'll post some pics of the install which might help you if you haven't already done yours by then.

You can see a few pic's of the parts I bought over here:

*** http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...de-on-lt1.html ***



.

 

LT4s may be narrow body, S/A from the factory but Ryan's are FULL-BODIED NSA 7/16" 1.7/1.65 Scorpions.

Hello! Is anyone paying attention? Hello!

Jake

 

I have the mag centerbolt stock covers on my 92. I put in 1.6 roller tip rockers.
Started the car and had some rubbing on the drip tabs. Took the dremel and removed the drip tabs, no more noise.

 

For those who haven't noticed, the OP said fooey on his rebuild. Intake went up for sale over a week ago. Something about needing to mod a family car instead IIRC.