Windshield Crack
I got a 12 inch crack at the base of my windshield at the driver windshield wiper. There is only a very tiny chip visible at one end of the crack. Anyone of any repair products or does the windshield need t be repalced?
Thanks


Well, '84 obviously.
Seriously, peep these comments from another post. Sounds like it could save you a lot of frustration, especially if you wind up having a glass repair shop do the work.The glass and everything related to it is nearly identical for all years.
The moldings can be removed by a competent worker.
First, they need to pluck out the 6 push pins that hold the weatherstrip in, two at the bottom of each A-pillar and one at each top corner. There may be a small amount of glue on the weatherstrip on the bottom corners, but that should be all.
Squeeze the w/strip and slip it out of the metal retainers (channel piece). The top corners tend to tuck under the plastic trim pieces, you can remove those if it makes it easier.
Now unscrew the retainers on each side and gently seperate it from the molding. The factory uses a thin foam tape to seal them to the moldings.
Now make sure all the tape is scraped off of the molding, and that there are no hidden screws. The molding should come off now. It may take some coaxing, if not by hand, try using a thin plastic blade to get between it and the glass like something that you'd use for spackling drywall.
Be careful, as there's a rubber seal behind it on that part. On the sides it's just a wide foam strip that shouldn't be bonded to the windshield frame, but sometimes the urethane from the glass install will squirt out and bond to it. If that foam is damaged, simply scrape ALL of it off and replace it with something similar.
On top, the w/strip retainer and molding are riveted together.
The glass shop will probably want to use urethane in place of the foam tape between the glass and molding, and between the molding and w/strip. If they do, you'll probably have to buy new moldings next time the windshield is replaced. And if they don't get it right on the first try, you'll have to buy them then.
Pay very close attention to the glass located around the vin, and at the two plastic hooks at the base of the glass. Also, open your doors and look up at the weatherstrip under the A-pillar, and the distance from the retainers to the top corner of the roof.
Basically, the glass installers will be flying blind once the windshield is off, with nothing to reference to. Take photos of everything, because if they haven't done a C4 before, they probably won't get it right the first time, and at least you'll know why.
When they pull the glass, they should repaint all the scrathes on the frame with primer or it can rust out later. If they say they can do everything without scratching the frame, they are full of shet.
The part my guys kept screwing up was not getting the windshield on low enough. This caused the wiper blades to hit the hood and none of the molding would line up with the original holes. It'd be a good idea to tape the moldings onto the glass and then move the glass down until the holes line up.
Otherwise, they will have to either drill new holes in your frame, or the moldings won't ever seal against the glass. The two vertical folded seams in the car's frame at both bottom corners of the glass should be almost touching the glass.
You could put a thin shim here to make sure the glass doesn't contact it though. They should also put a shim on those plastic hooks to make sure the glass doesn't slide down too far.
You'll probably need a new dash/windsheild seal, and maybe those trim pieces that slip onto the base of the glass at both sides.
Also, I tried Willcox weatherstrip, the windshield piece was wayyy to stiff at the corners for the top to go on. You literally had to get one guy to push down on the top while you tightened the bolts, and it overlapped with the side roof w/strip too much.
If you can't reuse yours, buy only GM stuff. Chris May at Superior Chevy in Kansas will sell it to you for about $220 if you ask for the corvetteforum discount.
If you put a new dash seal on (~$25) GM has this worthless doublestick on there. Make sure you get the piece centered and then use a bit of weatherstrip glue to help bond it. The thickness of this piece can be a little too much on both ends to get the glass seated all the way down. I'd suggest cutting those parts off if its in the way.
On the reinstall of the moldings and retainers, it shouldn't be an issue if the holes line up. If not, the weatherstrip may not be positioned correctly and the doors won't shut easy, or the windows won't go up while shut, or the top won't fit, etc. It would be easier at that point to reset the glass than to try and make everything fit.
And after all is said and done, spray it down and make damn sure it doesn't leak. The moldings/retainers tend to leak behind the weatherstrip and into the A-pillar plastic, then down the sides of the dash and onto the door sills.
In short, the glass has to be in the exact right spot for all the parts to go on correctly.
Good luck.
Last edited by onedef92; Aug 10, 2010 at 09:43 AM.


The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts


However, your car insurance will usualy cover glass breakage & I was told by my agent that it does not affect your premium because its such a common problem. The best part is that there are many companies that the insurance folks use, & most of them have mobile repair crews who come to your house & replace the glass/windshield in less than an hour.


In Kentucky ALL vehicle glass (mirrors, windshield, side marker lamps, etc...) are considered mandatory safety equipment and must be repaired or replaced with no increase in premiums by the policy holder. That does not mean unscrupulous auto insurance companies don't try and take advantage of unwitting customers, but a quick call to the state insurance commissioner's office usually results in the appropriate corrective action being taken.
Last edited by 383vett; Aug 12, 2010 at 12:09 AM.


Cracks can be repaired if you can cover them with a dollar bill.
if you have the crater type it can be repaired but no larger than a nickel.
spider web repairs the best.
Remember that a repair is structural and not cosmetic so you will probably see some remnant of the damage. There is always the possibility that the damage will "run" when the repair process starts. We use a new process that reduces this problem ,but it can still happen.
MCM thanks for the nice words about Safelite.
If anyone has a questions don't hesitate to ask.
Cracks can be repaired if you can cover them with a dollar bill.
if you have the crater type it can be repaired but no larger than a nickel.
spider web repairs the best.
Remember that a repair is structural and not cosmetic so you will probably see some remnant of the damage. There is always the possibility that the damage will "run" when the repair process starts. We use a new process that reduces this problem ,but it can still happen.
MCM thanks for the nice words about Safelite.
If anyone has a questions don't hesitate to ask.












