My problems started the other day when the hatch popped open by itself sitting in the driveway. I thought I had pressed the button in my hand. This morning the hatch was open again sitting over night in the garage.

The FOBs (I have 2) are basically dead. They won't unlock the doors from the outside (walking up) nor will they do any programming sitting in the car.

Checked the fuses (26, 40, and 42) all are fine.

Lights, radio both work turning on and off.

I did go through the FOB re-programming procedure (TRIP ODO/Fuel Info) and did get the Passive light to come on the DIC. Brought in a FOB and it made no difference. Passive light then goes out. The security light does come on when you open the door.

When I try to program the FOB, you do hear the door locks 'cycle' once like the doors are trying to unlock. You have to let of the button to get it to do it again. The auto door lock button on the door works fine for both doors. Hatch buttons (FOB and door frame) work fine.

Sounds like a dead PKE module?

Car: 96LT1 auto coupe

 

PKE diagnostic system works as follows:
With pins 4 and 8 connected, the PKE light in the Driver Info Centre will flash the codes.

Here is the list of DTCs and what they mean:

DTC #12: Receiver Memory Bad
DTC #13: Transmitter Not in Range
DTC #14: Non-Valid Transmitter Received
DTC #15: Valid Transmitter Received
DTC #16: Passenger Door Button Depressed
DTC #17: Hatch Button Depressed

Try this?

 

No...I didn't try this. Not sure how.

One thing I noticed ,while trying to re-program the FOB, I got the Passive light to come on the DIC but it never 'flashed'. It just stayed solid even as I brought the FOB ino the car. The FOB will work the rear hatch, but not the door locks.

Thanks!

 

...this is looking more like the receiver module is dead. Checked again this morning, and when I try to enter the programming mode, the PKE will light on the DIC but it will never flash. Just sorta dims when you put the key to lock. When you open the door, the word Security flashes on the instrument panel area.

Pretty sure the FOB is fine for you can still open the hatch.

The only thing I can get the FOB to do with the doors is with the key in the inigition it will try and cycle (lock or unlock) once. But it never really does anything.

Still not able to pull the codes. Any help there?

 

...wanted to provide an update on my situation.

1. When you open the driver door, the security indicator lights on the gauges area.

2. The PKE light on the DIC will NOT come on when you turn the key to ON.

3. You can get the PKE light to come on the DIC while trying to program the FOB. It won't FLASH.

4. With the key in the inigition (not turned ON) the FOB will now unlock the passenger door only. Press the FOB again and it tries to unlock again. Driver door cycles buy won't unlock.

5. The power switch on the driver door will lock and unlock both doors.

6. Door ajar, chimes, radio, fuses all check OK

7. FOB will unlock the hatch.

Will try and pull the codes for the PKE this weekend.

Does any of this make sense? Dead PKE or something going on inside the driver door? I had the driver door panel off about a month ago trying to fix the droopy door. Ended up doing the screw into the fiberglass tab. Holding fine.

Thanks for all the help!!

 

Sounds like it is the receicer mudule for PKE. Double check your codes, but sounds exactly like what my '94 did when it went, although, I was driving when the hatch popped. If you need help in replacing search older threads there are a few good ones here. Also helps if you have a GM manual to help finds all the screw holding on the dash parts, althoug now that I think of it a few of us listed all of those on one of the threads. Good luck and wish you the best.

-Dave

 

Thanks Dave

I plan on checking the codes this weekend. Half of me says go ahead and replace the module (PIA job + bucks) or get used to it. Any ideas on where to get the best deal on the module? It's funny but when it was working I sometimes complained about how annoying it could be. I'll be at the Corvettes at Carlisle, PA, maybe find something there?

I have thr 96 FSM, does it show step by step on how to get to the module (PIA)?

 

The FSM shows the steps. It's not fun, but not that bad.

 

I read your post and didn't see that you changed the battery in the fob. If I missed it, forgive me, but this is the first thing I would have done.

 

yeah.....the car came with 2 FOB's. One was the OEM (as described in the OM) while the other seems to be some sort of aftermarket model (has screws). I changed the battery in the non-OEM about 2 months ago. Did check the batteries in both just a few days ago and both seem to be fine.

The thing that bothers me most is that the PKE light on the DIC does not light when you turn the key to ON and I can't get it to come back on. A sure sign the receiver is dead? This really all started late last week when the hatch popped open all by itself. Luckly the car was in the driveway and garage. The ghost hatch pop must be the first.

 

I'm trying to remember where I got mine. It might have been through gmpartsdirect.com. They had a good price on it. I can double check if you need me to, just let me know, I'm sure I have the reciept or the box somewhere around here. I know i saved the old part and put it in the new box.

-Dave

 

Red Dwarf says it best. It is in the FSM. It isn't that bad but the first time you have to do it it will take time and patience. Remember if you do replace it to be careful when removing and installing alll those screws in the dash area. 14 yeaar old plastic gets very brittle remember to use the 2 finger method on the "driver" so as not to break the areas the srews go into. You will also have to reference some of the interior portion of the FSM to find all the fasteners for the dash.

-Dave

 

...talk about the walking dead. Since my last post I decided yesterday to try to disconnect the battery one more time. Left it along for about 15 minutes and hooked it back up. Tried the PKE, still no-show on the DIC, no locks, no nothing. Basically no change. I had already decided to not fool with the codes for I was pretty certain the module was dead.

This afternoon after driving to and from work, while I moving car/truck in the driveway at home, I heard the PKE try to do something with the doors, even sounded like the driver side. Got the Vette in the garage and as I walked away, still nothing. At this point I tried to pull the codes using the paper clip. No luck, not sure I'm doing it right. While I was in the car, I turned the key to 'ON' and all the lights on the DIC came on including the PKE!!.....Amazing. I then closed the car and walked away and the locks sounded as well as the horn. I then recalled about checking the FOB for dirt and such. I went inside and took it apart and all looked well. Did blow on it and heard the little ball moving. Walked back outside and held the key close to the door and the doors unlocked. Amazing!

We'll see how it does in the AM for the morning drive.

I know for some of you Vette Veterans, all of this may sound trival or old news, for me I'm still learning and maybe one day I'll know what's going on.

 

does anyo0ne have a source for the PKE module? mine is dead and will randomly pop the hatch going down the road if I dont pull the fuse.

 

Is this what you're looking for?

http://corvettesalvage.com/index.php...roducts_id=427


...mine is still back from the dead. At work this morning I did have to walk away and back before it locked. Getting ready to go home, I had to bring the key close to the door before the PKE worked. Does this sound like weak battery or weak FOB? The battery is only 2 months old.

 

yes it is, TY.

Yeah I would be going down the road. No FOB's in the car as they were on my end table at home, and the locks cycled and the hatch popped open. scared the crap out of me

pretty sure its the module at that point.

 

Try a new battery first ....whenever my PKE starts acting strange a fresh battery has returned operation to normal...sometimes a battery has lasted a long time a couple of other times not so much....


Mike

 

Thanks Mike

I noticed today if I shake the FOB as I approach the car, the door unlocks. Tonight in the garage the door locked when I got about 5-7 feet from the car while earlier (first arrival at home) it didn't lock until I got up on the porch. Wondering about that 20-25 seconds the OM talks about...?

Since mine is a DD, I'm wondering what affect that has on the battery? The FOB is in my pocket all day long as I sit at my desk or walk about. The PO hardly drove the car.

 

 

Two things we found with our 94's PKE/alarm:

1. the 'ball bearing' in the PKE -- even if it moves, there may be dirt inside which is preventing good contact -- the metal housing around the ball-bearing can be removed and the inside cleaned (including the ball-bearing) with an electrical cleaning agent. BTW, the reason for the ball-bearing is to 'wake-up' the transmitter in the PKE. If not 'awake', it does not transmit and thus the car will do nothing.

2. The door switches -- these are problematic due to poor design and very poor quality -- and when they do not operate properly (i.e. stick or do not close/open the 'circuit'), they cause all sorts of odd problems (e..g on our 94 -- hatch poping, alarm not setting, etc). There is is a test in the FSM via the CCM which can confirm the door switches operation -- also if needing replacement, they can be done right through their holes without having to take the door apart.

Btw, even though the door switches are an open/close electrical circuit, the PKE module uses them to sends a digital signal to the CCM, and when the door switches do not work as programmed/expected (in conjuction with the ignition switch, key in door, etc), it causes the CCM to do some odd things (e.g. the hatch poping).