Doing My Optispark Today Any Tips
Also what sealer should I use for the watre pump bolts I have the permatex 2 thread sealer and a tip I read on here Im gonna apply some anti sieze to the hub for the crank to prevent it from seizing on there if I ever have to go back in here again. All suggestions are greatly appreciated
Last I hope I get to hear it run today

Mike
Long Island
The short drivers side water pump bolt is tough to get to also.
I saw in on thread to use joint compound on the w/p bolts,that looks like what GM used.
I am still trying to get the crankshaft pulley off mine day 3 or 4.soaked it with PB blaster nothing,so I got a puller today and will modify it to fit.It's raining now or I would be out working on it.I still need to find a fitting to install a drain on the w/p also.The local auto parts didn't have anything that looked good to use.
While your there replace the timing cover seals for the w/p and opti.
The short drivers side water pump bolt is tough to get to also.
I saw in on thread to use joint compound on the w/p bolts,that looks like what GM used.
I am still trying to get the crankshaft pulley off mine day 3 or 4.soaked it with PB blaster nothing,so I got a puller today and will modify it to fit.It's raining now or I would be out working on it.I still need to find a fitting to install a drain on the w/p also.The local auto parts didn't have anything that looked good to use.
While your there replace the timing cover seals for the w/p and opti.
My hub just literally fell off. Someone was in there once before and had the presence of mind to put anti seize around the hub surface where is sticks to the crank and the crack itself. What a great idea and GM should have done this from the get go. Opti is in, hub is on water pump next. I should have this done in an hour or two at most. Advice is to put anti seize on the hub so that if your ever back in there it will actually slide off. Mine was a total joy. Hope you get yours off I know the problem well
Also what sealer should I use for the watre pump bolts I have the permatex 2 thread sealer and a tip I read on here Im gonna apply some anti sieze to the hub for the crank to prevent it from seizing on there if I ever have to go back in here again. All suggestions are greatly appreciated
Last I hope I get to hear it run today

Mike
Long Island
Don't plug up the drain holes on your new Opti. Water/condensation will find its way into your distributor but will have no way to get out.
Better idea is to upgrade your distributor with a vacuum line kit available at GM dealers. Maybe someone will chirp in with a P/N.
The factory added the vacuum harness from 94/95 on to address moisture/anti-freeze related failures.
I am replacing my WP and removed/inspected my Opti.
I found no water/antifreeze damage with 75k miles!
Sealed it up with RTV, cleaned the rotor/cap contacts and installed new wires.
I should be good to go for another 75k+ miles.
Also change your plugs every 30-40k miles or when engine exhibits rough running.
My first Opti died due to worn out plugs resulting in a badly carbon-tracked cap.
"SPARK PLUGS DO NOT LAST 100K MILES/FOREVER"
Best of Luck,



92WhitevetteGuy
A leak is a mess and more work.
http://www.impalasuperstore.com/nais...lace,with,pics
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Also, the MSD cap and rotor gives you the ability to add a vaccume and fresh air line to your first generation opti. That's what I plan to do.
Thanks;
Also, the MSD cap and rotor gives you the ability to add a vaccume and fresh air line to your first generation opti. That's what I plan to do.
Thanks;
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...0_842119052___
Also, the MSD cap and rotor gives you the ability to add a vaccume and fresh air line to your first generation opti. That's what I plan to do.
Thanks;
http://www.corvettefever.com/howto/16758/index.html
The vent hose kit # is GM PART # 12555323 48.00 from gmparts direct









Maybe the damper came off easily, but not the hub.







