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I like the way the Tri-Ys are performing. I would still choose that design for a street car.
My PE is set about 15% more than stock (esp above 3200 rpms). I kinda doubt my sensor is "numbed" by the teflon paste, but I might try you tap-test. Thx! And, thx for our conversation recently!
Brain fart. :o The Finnish set was not tri-Y. This is 1 1/2" to 1 5/8" and made of stainless. Nevertheless, they are manufactured fairly close to where I live and with Y-pipe not that much more that TPIS or Melrose shipped after taxes and such.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (appearance mods) 2019
Originally Posted by TheFinn
Brain fart. :o The Finnish set was not tri-Y. This is 1 1/2" to 1 5/8" and made of stainless. Nevertheless, they are manufactured fairly close to where I live and with Y-pipe not that much more that TPIS or Melrose shipped after taxes and such.
Wouldn't be a bad option for a stock/slight modified vette. It also looks like the primaries might be equal length (aka tuned).
My PE is set about 15% more than stock (esp above 3200 rpms). I kinda doubt my sensor is "numbed" by the teflon paste, but I might try you tap-test. Thx! And, thx for our conversation recently!
Just tweak PE mode enrichment to allow for 900 milivolts at yoru WOT conditions across the rpm range. Thats a safe area to be at for now, and then dyno tune with wideband from there. Hard to tell how it all runs at first. Car will run smoothly at WOT with very lean conditions but just wont be making as much power as it could. Thats not safe so keep an eye on it and when its close, play with timing. AFR's like 32-36 deg depending on combination
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (appearance mods) 2019
Originally Posted by Orr89rocz
Just tweak PE mode enrichment to allow for 900 milivolts at yoru WOT conditions across the rpm range. Thats a safe area to be at for now, and then dyno tune with wideband from there. Hard to tell how it all runs at first. Car will run smoothly at WOT with very lean conditions but just wont be making as much power as it could. Thats not safe so keep an eye on it and when its close, play with timing. AFR's like 32-36 deg depending on combination
I rescanned to perform your test. Every one of my O2 sensors readings are between 900 and 950mV from 2500 to 5500rpms. Most are 914mv or 932mV.
Does that mean I'm dead nuts or a hair too rich? Would I still be O.K. if I dropped 5% and had the O2 sensor reading "mean" closer to 900mV?
My PE is based on the power curve simulation by EA Pro -- which is why I think I got the PE curve right for all rpms.
I rescanned to perform your test. Every one of my O2 sensors readings are between 900 and 950mV from 2500 to 5500rpms. Most are 914mv or 932mV.
Does that mean I'm dead nuts or a hair too rich? Would I still be O.K. if I dropped 5% and had the O2 sensor reading "mean" closer to 900mV?
My PE is based on the power curve simulation by EA Pro -- which is why I think I got the PE curve right for all rpms.
i think you would be too rich. I'm tuning a car now thats in the 930-940 mv range and it was in the lower 11 to 1 air fuel ratio range on the wideband. I'd have to double check the logs but the leanest that car went was 12.2 to 1 at peak rpm. I think the milivolts were 920 there.
PE is suppose to follow the torque curve once MAF is maxed out. So you are doing good, just take it down abit to lean it all out.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (appearance mods) 2019
Originally Posted by Doughboy2k3
Looks great. Should be a week or two when I start my 388 for the first time. Any words of wisdom for the first start up?
Double-check all hoses to make sure you tightened them.
Double-check spark plug wires for correct firing order.
Make sure dizzy is oriented correctly.
Use zinc-enriched oil for break-in (or add a bottle of additive)
Prime motor with oil (via dizzy or with starter).
Install new chip with new engine config.
If you have new, coated headers, (and it's a roller motor), run 5min & cool, then run 10 & cool -- to break in coating.
Very, very nice. It looks like a real tire shredder to me. One note on the total timing. When I had my motor on the engine dyno with AFR 195 Comp heads and 11.1:1 compression we started out with 32 degrees of timing to be safe. So after some break in time and tuning we started to get serious on the power. One thing we did was increase the timing to 34 degrees looking for a nice gain. Wrong, power dropped off. Hmmmm, so we set the timing to 30 degrees total to see what would happen. Power went back up to where it was at 32 degrees so we left the timing at 30.
That is my motor combination and yours may like something different. I hope you get it on the dyno. I would love to see what the numbers are. I bet torque is way, way up there along with some nice horsepower numbers.