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I have a 86 and it gets hot to easy. I'll tell you what I have tried and maybe you can give some more suggestions. First off the car runs about 225 when you can keep moving in the warm weather(80 - 85).
If I get in a little traffic stop and go. The car will start to warm up 230,235 and keep climming until 250 than I'llshut down until I can get rolling for a while without a stop. When it starts to warm and you can roll for about a mile it will run all day. It only warms up in stop and go. This is what I tried. Pulled the cover off radiator to clean between.I bought a larger cfm fan from Mr. Gasket. Back flushed the engine and radiator. Made sure there was nothing blocking the flow under the front. I made fan run full time. I pulled the thermastate and I can see in the radiator a great flow of water. I have a high volume edllbrok water pump. The engine was in the machine shop for boring two winters ago so I don't think anything is dirty. I was thinking of putting the old fan back in and put the new one in front of the a/c that way it would push and pull. I'm about to give up any suggestions?
I was just looking on Ebay. What if any thougths of a 3 core all aluminum radiator with a two fan system? $240.00
Does any body think this could fix the problem or just more money down the drain?
I would take it to a shop and have a pressure test done to check an see if its a head gasket.If the water is flowing and the fan is working this would be the next step, you have checked for all the usual problems....WW
I would take it to a shop and have a pressure test done to check an see if its a head gasket.If the water is flowing and the fan is working this would be the next step, you have checked for all the usual problems....WW
with Wayne. A simple pressure test of the cooling system will tell you if you are bleeding out internally. I would do that before swapping parts.
Did you remove the radiator completely and clean out any debris that may be lodged between the cooling fins? Did you straighten out any bent fins on both the radiator core as well as the AC condensor? All debris must be thoroughly removed from the fins or you will lose cooling surface thereby causing over heating.
I was just looking on Ebay. What if any thougths of a 3 core all aluminum radiator with a two fan system? $240.00
Does any body think this could fix the problem or just more money down the drain?
Ive got one of them aluminum ebay radiators and Im still running hot.
This is the same issue I had with my 1986 and I have never solved it. Everything has been cleaned and the system will overheat if you have no movement of the car. If I let the car idle in my driveway on 90 degree day it would overheat when it was all stock. I live in the country so as long as I don't stop too long I never actually overheat. I eventually replaced the stock radiator with a Dewitt and the problem is gone for good.
Side note as long as I was cruising along on the highway the car would run 190 degrees or cooler, this was only a city issue. It appears yours runs 225 when cruising which seems too hot. Is your air dam in place?
as far as the timing if I'm rolling I have no problem
I never heard of burpping. How is that done?
I did take my compressed air and blew both ways trew both cores.
I'm liking the dewitt radiator, but any suggestions are welcome.
Thanks guys.
Several years ago my brother in law faught this battle with a 1965 mustang (302) slightly built, and after a second engine rebuild, countless Reiterations with radiators, cooling fans etc. etc. He finally found an "old school" mechanic who told him his fuel pressure was too low for the carb he was running, my brother in law replaced his fuel pump, and the engine temps dropped back to normal.
There are countless reasons why an engine could run warmer then normal, and evidently proper fuel flow is one of them...
as far as the timing if I'm rolling I have no problem
I never heard of burpping. How is that done?
I did take my compressed air and blew both ways trew both cores.
I'm liking the dewitt radiator, but any suggestions are welcome.
Thanks guys.
First thing in the morning after the car sat all night, check the level in the radiator, top off if necessary. Make sure the overfill tank is at the proper level. With the radiator cap off, start the car and keep the idle at about 2,000 rpms. I did this with a piece of cardboard wedge holding the throttle body open. As soon as the thermostat opens, around 190*, youre going to see the level in the radiator drop. At this time add enough antifreeze/water mixture to raise the level. Once topped off put the radiator cap back on and shut off the car.
Are your fans (main and aux) turning on at the right temp ? I had to replace a burned out fan motor and relay last June. There are also aftermarket sensors that turn them on at lower temps.
I would loss water if it were a head gasket. I'm not losing water.
Are you sure you arent losing water? I had similiar issue with my 89 with the addition that I ended up overheating my engine to the point of having a head gasket problem...I just didnt know it yet. I went through same steps you have. I put a brand new 190 thermostat in. Still overheating. I never noticed that I was losing water...somebody suggested that I take one of those retractable mechanics mirrors and look under my water pump at the weep hole for signs of leakage. Sure enough, there was green leakage stains on the weep hole from where my coolant had been slowly seeping out. (photo below).Took water pump off-it was shot. Put brand new one on. Still over heating. Long story short, turned out to be head gasket problem. If you havent overheated , you may not have a head gasket issue but i would check that water pump. Good luck.
Last edited by vetdrem; Oct 20, 2010 at 03:00 PM.
Reason: adding photo
One thing that is over looked is the pressure cap if it is weak of leaking the coolent will boil out of the cooling system and it is the cheapest thing to replace
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