Ok everthing I do I run into a wall.
How do I get the plug wires by the power steering pump line on the drivers side.All 4 wires go thru a small space.Do I just force them thru?
If I would have known about the small space I would have made my own after putting the wire thru that small spot.

I have the passenger side done plus and wires.tight but got it.

 

Some remove the wheel well panel, others do that plus attack it from underneath. I'll bet there's something in the Tech Tips on this since it comes up fairly often.

Personally I haven't had to tackle this job yet - with the engine in the car - but my day is coming, LOL

Jake

 

Changing the plug wires on an LT1/LT4 Corvette is not a lot of fun, but it can be done. Here are a few tips I posted here years ago:

1. Raise the front end of the vehicle to a more comfortable working height.

2. Remove the inner fenderwell center panel on the driver's side. This will allow you to both see and do the job much more easily on the driver's side. You may also find it helpful to remove the wheel.

3. Unbolt the ASR bracketry from the frame, so that you can slide the ASR unit around to get it out of your way.

4. Remove the serpentine belt and tensioner.

5. Unbolt the power steering pump so that you can move it forward around a half inch. This will make it much easier to sneak the plug wires in/out behind the pump.

6. Use dielectric grease in the boots at both ends of the wires. Be sure to "burp" the air out of the boots after you get each of them pushed firmly into place, so that the trapped air doesn't try to push the wires off later.

Some guys report that they've had decent success accessing the Opti-end of the plug wires from underneath of the car, and that this saved them the trouble of removing the belt and tensioner. I haven't tried this, so I can't comment.

Take your time, work with care, and pay attention to what you're doing. The OEM replacement plug wires from your Chevy dealer are high quality parts, and will route (and fit into the wire looms) correctly. Run the new wires properly, and make sure they stay away from anything that moves, is sharp, or gets hot.

The passenger's side is not such a bad job. The driver's side is a Queen Royal Beyotch (mostly because all of the belt-driven accessories are hanging on the driver’s side of the front of LT1/LT4 engines, and they leave little room for you to work or see what you’re doing). With plenty of patience, beer and Band-Aids, you'll get it done.

Live well,

SJW

 

I can get everything its just getting the wires thru by the ps pump metal bracket.I will give it another go tomorrow,I have just about everthing apart anyways since i'm replacing my front timing cover seals

 

Remove the serpentine belt and tensioner.

Unbolt the power steering pump so that you can move it forward around a half inch. This will make it much easier to sneak the plug wires in/out behind the pump.

Live well,

SJW

 

Hi,
I am also replacing my wires due to a failed WP.
I did the following to gain additional access:
1. Removed C/S pulley dampener
2. Removed serpentine belt idler
3. Unbolted A/C compressor from its aluminum bracket (leave hose attached)
4. Remove inner fender well center panel
5. Route sparkplug wires like original (do not forget to reuse original wire wrapping to minimize chaffing)
PM me for pics.
Best of Luck,

 

Ah, the dreaded LT1 driver's side "hell hole." SJW speaks the truth. I followed the same procedure when I swapped my plugs/wires/looms out, too.

It's a straight *****, but it can be done. Persistence overcomes resistance.

 

plugs and wires in thanks all.The wire on the drivers side were a pain.All 8 plugs went in good.
I used NGK G platinum plugs and Taylor spiral wires

Thanks again for your help,I just hope it starts when I try in a few days

 

Onedef92......great pics of the "Hell Hole" !!! Bookmarked for future reference !!

 

Thanks. I prefer the clean, O.E.M. wire looms/holders installation, too. I'm pretty persnickety over things like that. Mid-America Motor works (MAM) sells the looms in a kit.



I also used corrugated tubing over the coil and ignition wires exposed to high heat areas, just like O.E.M. You can buy it at any auto parts store.

 

put the wp on today,I have so much room to put the coil wire on,I would hate to do this job without pulling the wp.

 

Yea, tell me about it. It's a tight fit.

Jake

 

No better time to swap plugs/wires than when the WP (and often the Opti) are off the car.

 

Did you wrap your coil wire in corrugated flex tubing to help offset the heat it experiences being positioned in between the air intake coupling and the top of the engine?

My O.E.M. coil wire came pre-wrapped from the factory and I can see why. A lot of LTx coil wires go bad in that area due to the burning off of the insulation, resulting in arcing, loss of maximum ignition power, and subsequent other problems.

 

Well the vette runs rally smooth with my new plugs and wires.
No oil or water leaks yet.
Had a little over heat problem,didn't burp the system good enough at first,thats why I let it warm up in the driveway first.