In Europe where i live for a simple fuel pump for a city car they shot €300 =$ 400 btw you can buy a C4 from €8k(84-89) to 16k(95-96)

 

I've had numerous recommendations to bring it to the place I'm getting it done. All-in-all It's costing $2400can with the high stall converter and shift kit. Upgraded servos, clutch packs, etc... I will also post the bill with all the upgraded internals later.

 

BTW,
The servo thing is part of the "corvette tax".
You car came with a corvette servo. The servo is basically an aluminum disc that has seals on it.
The trans guys usually upgrade to a corvette servo.....which you already have.
On a rebuild, there is very few differences between a corvette 700R4 than a regular one except the servo has more aluminum in it than a regular one and a couple parts are beefed up.
These parts are usually not replaced on a rebuild.
The transmissions are physically the same. The differences would be the clutch stackups and can be +1 or -1 friction or steel.
Early transmissions are not compatible with later ones, so it's best to use 87-92 transmissions for the build. The early and late transmissions are not compatible with each other on the control parts, but the drive parts are the same except for the upgraded factory improvements.

The output shaft is shorter, and the governor has different weights.
I was so disgusted with the trans shops here, I bought a book.
I took mine apart and the fix was seals and clutch material.
When they start talking servos, I make sure that I turn around a and walk away. The servos are cheap on Ebay, and you know they are going to buy the one for you that makes them the most money.
Overhaul kits are $145, and if no damage, you may have to replace bearings or shims, or maybe a worn part or 2.
I have noticed that the thing that affects the transmissions the most is hard seals. When the trans starts bypasing fluid internally, the apply pressure bleeds off, and the clutch material begins to wear much more rapidly causing black fluid. When the clutch material wears really fast, the material can clog the filter, and causes metal to be produced in the fluid. There are no magic fixes for hard seals except take it apart and clean everything really good and change all the internal seals, and replace the clutch material.

 

i agree having my 700r4 still resting on the floor of my garage i have all the time to make my search,watching tons of video on you tube about trans rebuild assembly ecc,most of work is involved in rerplacing seal ,o rings, bushings,washers...btw aftermarket products allow you to upgrade internals to better performance/ wear resistance like Alto red eagle clutch friction,Kolene clutch steel, 2-5/8 inch wider bands,hardened sun shell like the Beast,hardened imputshaft,intermediate valve boost and sleave (larger diameter over stok), larger t v boost valve .500" (more surface)this things aren't cosmetics but realy work for an upgraded unit

 

Got it back last week and it feels amazing. Kicks ino gear nice and hard.

Bill:

R+R transmission, Teardown and inspect
Replace all clutches and seals
Install Z-pack in 3-4 clutch pack
Install bushing kit, hardened reaction shell, fwd sprag, low reverse sprag, wide band, second gear super hold servo, 500 boost valve, pinless accumulator pistons.
Install shift kit, flush cooler, replace filter install 2200 converter (600 higher then what was in there), road test and scan, supply valve body that was not stock, not a GM serviced.

subtotal: $2596.10 + tax

 

Must be fate or something -- I just got back home from a transmission shop and the news that my 4L60E is cooked. At some point, probably when it was rebuilt by the PO, the coolant circuit stopped functioning. I had never thought to feel the trans cooling lines to see if anything was flowing, and as soon as I saw that nasty fluid I checked. Stone cold. So the fluid was never getting cooled and the whole thing is cooked, with so many metasl filings that the magnet could not hold any more.

The odd thing is that it was functioning perfectly. However, catastrophic failure is certainly imminent. I sure hope I can keep it in the $1500-2K ballpark. Anybody got any recommendations in the Sacramento area? I think I'll post a separate thread asking for help.

 

At least yours was a $1000 cheaper than mine. I will be testing mine out at the strip soon so hopefully the elapsed times will reflect and confirm that the money was worth spending.

 

WOW!!!! I thought I paid a lot for my tranny overhaul. They did everything, and all I had to do was pay! $1304.60. Budget Transmission in N. Little Rock Arkansas! Kept the factory torque converter(rebuilt also). I can't be more pleased with how smooth it shifts!

 

Is it supposed to change gears hard? On my stock 89 with auto, I can feel it hit kinda hard when going from 2nd to 3rd. It sounds like a brief thud. Though, I could be wrong on that sound description. From 1st to 2nd is smooth.

 

So, they rebuilt your factory torque converter? I thought those were a replacement item?

 

The shift kit does that to get the quicker shifts for racing.

 

Heat will sure cook a tranny quick! $1500-2K should be EASY for a shop to do the trans for - the parts aren't all that expensive - for all the 'good' upgraded parts and a stock style high stall converter to hold 350-375 HP reliably it will cost about $450 or so - that leaves $1k-1500 for R&R and rebuilding labor - assuming that no hard parts were hurt badly (i.e. didn't shell the sun gear, didn't bust the drum, etc.)

Some of the better shops have the lathe and welder to cut apart the converter, clean it, replace the bearings (bushings) and then re-weld and balance it - a LOT of the smaller shops don't have that equipment so they just buy one, exchange the converter and send the old one back to someone like DAACO that rebuilds them by the truckload....

 

I forgot to mention..... 12 month- 12K mile warranty on all parts and labor. That includes the torque converter( done in house ).

 

How much did it cost to get the torque converter rebuilt? Looks like they sell for around $130. I'm guessing alot of the torque converters must be rebuilds as I notice them having a core charge.

 

That is correct. Quicker shifts and less wear. But then you also need tires. lol

It breaks the tires loose and kicks side ways abit hammering gears at WOT.

I couldn't imagine how a stage 3 would be like.

 

Incorrect. All replacement converters are remanufactured. They are only available new, in a new car.