I relieved the pressure too. I think it just built back up from the heat of the day and pushed its way out. lost 1/8 of a tank.

 

Relieve pressure by pulling the Pump Fuse and running it until it stalls.

Remove or loosen the gas cap. It's a closed system and heat will build pressure and push it into the lines and if it's opened somewhere it will start to siphon once it's dripping.

Relieve any remaing pressure with a fuel pressure gage at the Rail Fitting.

Disconnect the inlet and outlets. Get a vacuum cap assortment package at any Discounter and put whatever fits over each line.

Pull the rail with the injectors intact.

Before you reconnect the lines, install a new filter and then put one end of a hose on the inlet and the other in a coffee can. Turn on the ignition allowing the pump to run for 2 seconds which will flush any crap out of the line. Reinstall the lines with new o-rings. NOTE: if you feel there's junk before the Filter then do this at the Filter inlet first and repeat after you've installed a new filter at the rail inlet.

Repressurize by turning the ignition on again to check for leaks and that pressure is within specs. Check again when you first start it up.

 

I've already got most of the intake stuff off. So I wasn't able to run it dry. The problem might of been that after I loosened the gas cap, I tightened it back down. I guess I'll need to leave it loose.

The fuel filter had already been replaced last year, so it doesn't have much miles on it.

 

How do you change the injectors? Is it easy to get the fuel rails out? what do I need to do? I might do mine as I have leakdown.

 

It is a pain. I just got the fuel rail pulled on mine. I had to take extra stuff off that wasn't in the instructions like the EGR tube and smog lines by the compressor.

I would recommend getting a 1/4" T40 torx. You can get a 1/4" torx set for $10 at Autozone. I used a regular 3/8" T40 torx, and I really didn't have much room. I had to figure out how to get that under the runners and other places as the T40 socket was big.

 

Man I feel for you Josh,I don't know if you read my thread or not took about an hour start to finish on my 95 today. Good luck

 

In my '91 there is a secondary fuel pump fuse at the auxiliary fuse box. But I don't know, if '95 has it also.

 

Secondary fuel pump is for the LT5. If you have a ZR1, the circuit needs to be protected. For an L98, it doesn't do anything.

 

Since no one else has mentioned it yet I thought I would put my two cents in. With all that fuel and oil that got throughout the engine, I'm guessing some surely would have gotten into the exhaust sytem. May have damaged your catalytic convertors and o2 sensor. That might partially explain the running problems. May have damaged other sensors as well that would have been exposed to it. Worth checking them out. You're lucky that fuel didn't explode when you tried to crank it!

 

That's right...sorry.

I just remembered that fuse, because I tried to fix the cigarette lighter for several hours by disassembling the center console before I found out that cigarette lighter's fuse is located the auxiliary fuse box and -of course- only the fuse was blown :o remembered the FP2 fuse from that one.

 

If you had gas/oil mix coming out of the throttle body, I would assume that the mix reached the valves, ran down the exhaust manifold, down the pipes, and into the cats. That could explain the smoking problem. Pure gas, never mind the oil, in a catalytic converter is a great reason, and perfectly legal, to replace it with a high-flow cat (get Random Technologies). The ceramic brick inside should be soaked with it, I would think.

I filled my block with mix, too. Injector stuck open with full fuel pressure overnight. Caught it when the level was only at the spark plug hole, though. Actually "hydro-locked" the engine.
Got 5 gallons of mix out of block. Drained it and let it set to dry out for 3 days (all plugs out, PCV valves out, etc.). I, then, put 15 quarts of cheap oil in and let it set for a couple days, hoping that I could immerse the rod and crank bearings enough to displace the mix between bearing surfaces. Drained 10 quarts out before I cranked it with the distributor disconnected. Did that 3 or 4 times with a new filter until I could no longer smell gas in the oil. Put good oil and filter in and ran it to operating temp. I have had NO PROBLEMS.

Yes, it cost me a little money to do it that way. But, way cheaper than a bent rod or something. And, inside of the block is now absolutely spotless.

Next time, I'll pull the fuel pump fuse.