C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

EGR failure code 32

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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 11:39 PM
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Default EGR failure code 32

My 89 Vette has the CEL coming on only now and then. Getting a 32. So whats failed EGR valve, sensor, solenoid, any way to check these parts.
Thanks for any help
JR
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 11:46 PM
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Usually the valve itself.
The diaphragm gets stuck.
Check the hose to it first.
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 11:52 PM
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Hello> I did and got nothing from it, I mean I feel no suction. Should I?
However the car runs completely fine other then seeing that light now and then.
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Old Oct 1, 2010 | 12:03 AM
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Yes, it's vac operated. No vac to it in park or neutral because the solenoid is de-energized.
May be that yours isn't completely stuck, but sticks at times.

Last edited by Robs 1988; Oct 1, 2010 at 12:05 AM.
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Old Oct 1, 2010 | 12:08 AM
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Do you have a vac pump?
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Old Oct 1, 2010 | 07:48 AM
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http://members.shaw.ca/corvette86/Code%2032.pdf
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Old Oct 1, 2010 | 12:56 PM
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The EGR valve diaphragm also might be torn or rotted away, resulting in inability to hold vacuum. Best to physically remove the valve, then connect to a MityVac and see if it holds vacuum pressure.


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Old Oct 1, 2010 | 04:22 PM
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Thanks for all who replied> the information on here is the greatest, I wished I would have found this site sooner.
Thanks again,
JR
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Old Oct 1, 2010 | 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by onedef92
The EGR valve diaphragm also might be torn or rotted away, resulting in inability to hold vacuum. Best to physically remove the valve, then connect to a MityVac and see if it holds vacuum pressure.


I was able to use pliers to get a vac line tightly fitted on the EGR valve on my 89 to do a vac check without having to remove it. I can't get it to hold vacuum. But I've never gotten a code 32.

I have heard a sticking open EGR valve could cause you to run lean as I guess it is pumping in air when it shouldn't.
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Old Oct 1, 2010 | 05:52 PM
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my 94 was throwing the code 32. ended up being a big hole in one of the vacum hoses for the egr. changed it and everything was good again
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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 10:13 AM
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remember, the egr valve will not hold vacuum. it has a calibrated leak so that when the EGR solenoid turns off, the vacuum slips away to allow the valve to close.
you need to put vacuum directly to the vacuum hose that goes to the EGR valve.
What you are looking for is that when you apply vacuum to the valve, the engine stumbles and almost quits, then when the egr valve closes, the engine idles fine.
Ususally, when the egr code is set, the temp sensor on the EGR pipe is on the fritz and does not tell the computer that the pipe got hot.
The reason the pipe gets hot, is that the EGR tube will not get hot when exhaust is not flowing in the tube with the EGR valve in the off position.

When the computer grounds the solenoid, the vacuum flows to the EGR valve, the EGR valve opens, the exhaust starts flowing in the tube, the sensor gets hot, the computer gets it's feedback so there is no code, the engine gets the intake mixture dilution, and the world is happy.
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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 01:28 PM
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Default Put some headers on it and you won't have no more EGR.

Originally Posted by coupeguy2001
remember, the egr valve will not hold vacuum. it has a calibrated leak so that when the EGR solenoid turns off, the vacuum slips away to allow the valve to close.
you need to put vacuum directly to the vacuum hose that goes to the EGR valve.
What you are looking for is that when you apply vacuum to the valve, the engine stumbles and almost quits, then when the egr valve closes, the engine idles fine.
Ususally, when the egr code is set, the temp sensor on the EGR pipe is on the fritz and does not tell the computer that the pipe got hot.
The reason the pipe gets hot, is that the EGR tube will not get hot when exhaust is not flowing in the tube with the EGR valve in the off position.

When the computer grounds the solenoid, the vacuum flows to the EGR valve, the EGR valve opens, the exhaust starts flowing in the tube, the sensor gets hot, the computer gets it's feedback so there is no code, the engine gets the intake mixture dilution, and the world is happy.
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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by coupeguy2001
remember, the egr valve will not hold vacuum. it has a calibrated leak so that when the EGR solenoid turns off, the vacuum slips away to allow the valve to close.
you need to put vacuum directly to the vacuum hose that goes to the EGR valve.
What you are looking for is that when you apply vacuum to the valve, the engine stumbles and almost quits, then when the egr valve closes, the engine idles fine.
Ususally, when the egr code is set, the temp sensor on the EGR pipe is on the fritz and does not tell the computer that the pipe got hot.
The reason the pipe gets hot, is that the EGR tube will not get hot when exhaust is not flowing in the tube with the EGR valve in the off position.

When the computer grounds the solenoid, the vacuum flows to the EGR valve, the EGR valve opens, the exhaust starts flowing in the tube, the sensor gets hot, the computer gets it's feedback so there is no code, the engine gets the intake mixture dilution, and the world is happy.
You are supposed to be able to pull vacuum and get it to hold for something like 20 seconds on the EGR valve. That is one of the checks to see if the EGR is bad according to the shop manual.
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