94 6 speed hasn't been turned on in 4 weeks due to ignition problem, it would still crank every time. I just replaced coil/icm and tried to jump start it but nothing happens. I know its either a battery/VATS problem.

Headlights work, windows go up/down, wipers move but weakly.
Only when the headlights are on does the dash light up.
Mechanical gauges don't move though.
Insert key and there is no resistance in turning it to full crank position, no click.
Tried 2nd backup key same issue, a key alone won't light up dash/display, only the headlights will.

I tried charging the battery for 20 minutes from another car but nothing seems to change. If the battery is weak but enough to power headlights and other accessories, wouldn't the key still cause the click it always does?

 

If it's a VATS problem, I think the security light would be solid when you try to crank it instead of flashing like it normally does.

 

Measure the battery voltage at its terminals when holding the ign key in crank. If it falls below 9.0 volts, your battery is discharged or the battery connections need cleaning/tightening, or the battery is at the end of its life. I suspect your car battery has been ruined by you letting it sit for 4 wks doing nothing. Lead acid batteries should never be left sitting for long periods. Even disconnected, car batteries self discharge and collect lead sulphate on their plates. Lead sulphate is soft at first and upon charging the lead sulphate is converted back to lead and sulfuric acid. Left sitting, lead sulphate becomes hard and will not convert upon charging and lead sulphate is a good insulator, so you wind up with effectively a motorcycle battery. Always use a battery tender when you aren't going to use your car for long periods (4+ wks).
Battery tenders measure the battery voltage and charge the battery when they detect a 10% drop in charge and then turn off. You can tell the state of charge by measuring the battery terminal voltage under no load. 12.0 volts and under, discharged, charge the battery up at least overnight with a battery charger. 12.9 volts and higher, fully charged and linear in between.
Stop abusing your batteries, keep them charged and they will experience a normal life.

 

I dont drive mine much and the last 2 times I have went to start it after not driving it for a few days it is completely dead as if something is draining the battery

 

You should be able to park your car for several days, even 2 weeks and it should start and run. If your battery dies after 2-3 days of sitting, you may indeed have excessive leakage current and you can prove that by measuring the leakage current with a meter. GM says the leakage current should not exceed 50 milliamps. My 87 measures 27 ma. and I have no battery problems. Batteries near the end of their life (no matter how much or how little time you have owned it) don't hold a charge very long and can have your symptom.

 

Bought a new battery, 12.4 volts on electronic dash. Still key is not even being recognized! Measured ohm resistance on key and its right on the dot, 681. Think I should bypass VATS now? I thought an improper resistance still lit up the dash though.

 

Narrowed it down with lots of searching. My ignition lock cylinder sometimes took some wiggling for it to turn. I had a shop diagnose the ignition coil/distributor problem 2 weeks ago and I'm guessing one of the mechanics forced the key and it messed up the rod that connects to the cylinder/ignition switch. This will be my next step.

 

Hope that is it.

 

The Pass Key Ignition Lock Cylinder Contacts can go bad from time and a lot of previous usage.

Also the thin wires from the Ignition Lock Cylinder can break off for the Pass Key system.

From many years of starting and driving the car.

Seen it many times before.

 

Yep I read about those wires on the cylinder lock breaking off, but from my understanding that would still pop the security light/dash lights which mine doesn't. But now the actuator rod makes even more sense, the key in the cylinder is very easy to turn! Will check it out as soon as I get some time.

 

OK. You are pretty handy and good at troubleshooting with your Corvette yourself.

You will get it fixed soon.

 

After messing around with the column trying to understand it, I actually got a dash light on, the security light! and the turning of the lock cylinder meets normal resistance. So its gotta be a loose mechanical connection. I have 2 questions though, looking at the picture what does the rod I am holding do (its loose)? Is it the high beam, since mine never worked. Also what does that cylindrical pin above my fingers do, it comes out and goes in freely. Since I get the security flashing in some positions I got a VATS bypass on the way. And my steering wheel (not column) is pretty loose.



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