C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Poly Bushings

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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 06:52 PM
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Default Poly Bushings

Replacing the D36 with a D44 in my 88' Auto, and I'm looking to replace bushings while i have the rear end out.

I see a few options for poly bushings, does brand matter? I'm looking at ZIP and VBP, with VBP being a little more expensive. Any opinions/personal experience with either?
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 06:09 AM
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the best time to put the bushings in the batwing is with the the rear out,
the original rubber bushes have a metal sleeve and the sleeves need to be driven out with a press or if you know someone with a lathe the new poly bushes can be turned down and the metal sleeves left in.
I used Prothane.
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 08:35 AM
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Default Energy Suspension Bushings

I used Energy Suspension Bushings and finished my project earlier this year.

http://www.energysuspension.com/

Excellent results and can be purchased through Summit Racing for a decent price. I used a shop press that I purchased from Harbor Freight and things went really well. I am pleased with the results.




Jeff
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 12:52 PM
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Thanks guys, what kind of grease are you guys using?
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 01:28 PM
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Not trying to hijack the thread, but do you guys think that delrin bushings would be better the polyurethane for rear end bushings?
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Alan777
Thanks guys, what kind of grease are you guys using?
The bushings come with a small container of grease from Energy. it is water proof and compatible with the bushings. I chose to use the factory Energy grease because changing out all of these bushings is too big of a job to have to do over again because you tried to save a few bucks only to find that the grease you put on the bushing was not spec'd and degraded the poly.)

After a few hours work, I realized that I was going to need more grease. This stuff appears to be almost completely water resistant. Summit sells the Energy brand grease in larger containers that can be ordered seperately. One additional larger contained with take care of the job.
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by jakers
The bushings come with a small container of grease from Energy. it is water proof and compatible with the bushings. I chose to use the factory Energy grease because changing out all of these bushings is too big of a job to have to do over again because you tried to save a few bucks only to find that the grease you put on the bushing was not spec'd and degraded the poly.)

After a few hours work, I realized that I was going to need more grease. This stuff appears to be almost completely water resistant. Summit sells the Energy brand grease in larger containers that can be ordered seperately. One additional larger contained with take care of the job.
Thanks, that's exactly what i needed to know.
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Alan777
Thanks guys, what kind of grease are you guys using?
Remember to use the grease sparingly on the pivot point ONLY!!!

IF you grease the bushing on the surface that is pressed in it will rotate and destroy the bushing early on.

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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by JrRifleCoach
Remember to use the grease sparingly on the pivot point ONLY!!!

IF you grease the bushing on the surface that is pressed in it will rotate and destroy the bushing early on.

Thanks for the tip.

ordered energy suspension bushing kit [complete] with an extra tub of grease from summit.
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Old Oct 5, 2010 | 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by JrRifleCoach
Remember to use the grease sparingly on the pivot point ONLY!!!

IF you grease the bushing on the surface that is pressed in it will rotate and destroy the bushing early on.

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Old Oct 5, 2010 | 11:16 PM
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I used the energy brand bushings in my swap with excellent results. I did mine with the rearend still in the car and just dropped it down on a jack. I made a tool to press then sleeves out by turning a metal slug the diameter to fit inside the batwing end and catch the edge of the sleeve and a piece of tubing on the backside with an allthread thru the middle . Tightened a nut down on the allthread to force the slug thru the batwing and pressed the sleeve into the tubing. Nice way to do it if you dont want to completely remove the rearend or dont have a press.
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Old Oct 5, 2010 | 11:23 PM
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I have the rearout out anyways, my D36 is destroyed form burnouts and launches so I got a D44 that I'm swapping in. Figured I'd do everything at once now.

I'm happy to hear the energy bushings work out well though.
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Old Oct 8, 2010 | 05:46 PM
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Before i make a thread, i'll see if i can get help here.

I drilled out one of the bushings for the differential carrier on the batwing. The poly bushing that is supposed to go in there is the exact diameter of the metal sleeve in the batwing. Am i supposed to remove the metal sleeve or is this poly bushing somehow going to compress and fit in there?
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Old Oct 8, 2010 | 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Alan777
Am i supposed to remove the metal sleeve or is this poly bushing somehow going to compress and fit in there?
Sleeve or shell has to come out.
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Old Oct 8, 2010 | 06:15 PM
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Those bushings I would think are only for locating the rear and vibration isolatation. I can not see where anything actually moves or pivots in any way. A good idea to change them as they can make the rear shift side to side if worn out. This winter I am looking at doing a complete suspension overhaul / upgrade I have all the parts done for the rear and working on the mono ball setup for the fronts in my spare time now.
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Old Oct 8, 2010 | 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Ray Quayle
Sleeve or shell has to come out.
Alright thanks, whats the safest way to remove them?

Originally Posted by ddahlgren
Those bushings I would think are only for locating the rear and vibration isolatation. I can not see where anything actually moves or pivots in any way. A good idea to change them as they can make the rear shift side to side if worn out. This winter I am looking at doing a complete suspension overhaul / upgrade I have all the parts done for the rear and working on the mono ball setup for the fronts in my spare time now.
I have a Dana 44 going in, so I'm going to put the new diff carrier bushings in while i have a Diff out. I bought the whole energy suspension bushing kit, so i'll eventually get around to all of the car's bushings.
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Old Oct 8, 2010 | 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Alan777
Alright thanks, whats the safest way to remove them?
The tool that IBVETN2 made up sound really good. Of course the GM tool would be best/easiest/safest. I very carefully used a hacksaw blade to cut into the shell and then split it and removed it with pliers. Not suggested unless you are very careful. I managed it and I'm a ham fisted buffoon!
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