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My OEM AC Delco starter motor died on me last night. I went to the local speed shop this morning and they sold me a torque reduction starter from Canada (CVR 5323) which apparently is supposed to be for an early small block chev.
I have had a bit of a go at seeing whether it fits but haven't managed to get it in. The gear sticks out of an awkard square mounting block which seems to get in the way too. Bolt holes seem to line up. My LT headers are making it very awkward to see what's going on too.
Anyone know whether this should work or do I have to get a special L98 one?
So what is wrong with the correct GM starter? What is wrong with an auto electrical shop repairing your failed starter? (Yes, I know, it isn't an Aussy starter, therefore no easy parts availability).
So what is wrong with the correct GM starter? What is wrong with an auto electrical shop repairing your failed starter? (Yes, I know, it isn't an Aussy starter, therefore no easy parts availability).
Since I put on the LT headers the starter didn't like to operate when the engine was hot. Not sure whether it is caused just by the header or the header pushed it over the edge. Last night I thought I'd go for a run. Engine was still hot. When I tried to crank the engine the starter short-circuited and the battery volts went to zero and dash went out. I disconnected the battery and the volts came back up. Measured resistance presented to battery and it was 0.3 ohms. I figured it was the starter.
Disconnected the starter motor this morning and sure enough the short was gone and I was able to reconnect the battery and put my ragtop back up (couldn't open the back without battery volts last night).
As I am about to head to the dragstrip this summer I don't want any starting problems. These new design starters are lighter, higher torque and give more header clearance than the original I understand. Also my cranking pressures are up since my heads were shaved so the extra torque is required. Doubt if the GM replacement would be available in Australia and I want the car back on the road quick.
Repairing things in Australia generally is as expensive or more than buying new. Labour rates are sky high with all the mining activity.
The mini starter has more torque than your original. The starter has 2 sets of holes. one for the 11 inch clutch flywheel, and one set for the autos and the 10 inch clutch.
THe starter solenoid may be able to be clocked away from the headers, angled towards the block for eliminating heat soak by the headers.
They work just fine, especially on high compression engines.
The mini starter has more torque than your original. The starter has 2 sets of holes. one for the 11 inch clutch flywheel, and one set for the autos and the 10 inch clutch.
THe starter solenoid may be able to be clocked away from the headers, angled towards the block for eliminating heat soak by the headers.
They work just fine, especially on high compression engines.
Sounds good then. Mine is an auto. Interestingly the solenoid is on the bottom with the new one with the electrical connections conveniently positioned away from the block. The existing one with the solenoid on top and one of the electrical connections on the block side made it difficult. I have heat wrapped the header pipes adjacent the starter so hopefully it will be OK.
After an hour or so trying to get it installed I have concluded it doesn't fit. A notch has been taken out of the mounting block to clear the oil pan but it appears it still doesn't clear it. I suppose I am going to have to file off some more metal on that corner to clear the lip of the oil pan.
I got a 90 starter for my 87. Its small and bolts right up. I can take it off without removing the longtube headers. Can you take that one back ?
This is the second one they have given me actually. Can you believe it there is another GM L98 engine! Apparently there was an Australian variant of the LS series called an L98 used in the Commodore and a few others. So they gave me the starter for that which didn't fit.
I have taken out my trusty hacksaw and cut off a bit more of the corner. Actually got it to bolt up finally. Header didn't have to be removed but certainly didn't help proceedings.
The next tricky bit is to check for correct clearance between the fly wheel and the starter gear. Needs about 30 - 60 thou. If I don't have the correct clearance it will have to come out and I will have to use the shims provided to get correct clearance.
Yes, I know, it isn't an Aussy starter, therefore no easy parts availability.
The big **** AC Delco unit he is replacing is common as down here.
Same starter was used on GM products sold new here from '55- mid '60's and on the Chev V8 engines fitted to the local GM product (Holden who made the "new " GTO )
Nothing locally came with the small Denso starter fitted to the late C4's
When you finally do get a starter that fits, do yourself a big favor and get either a heat shield or buy some of the thermal wrap and put it around your starter..When you have headers, using the thermal shield or wrap is all that will save your starter..Trust Me On This....WW
When you finally do get a starter that fits, do yourself a big favor and get either a heat shield or buy some of the thermal wrap and put it around your starter..When you have headers, using the thermal shield or wrap is all that will save your starter..Trust Me On This....WW
That looks pretty much the same design as the one I have bought.
On the hottest of California days I can idle my 90 for like 2 hours and it cranks over every time with this style starter. You can buy them on the bay pretty cheap.
On the hottest of California days I can idle my 90 for like 2 hours and it cranks over every time with this style starter. You can buy them on the bay pretty cheap.
I don't think the ambient temp was the primary problem. Never had a starter problem till I put the LT headers in. Got through last summer fine. With headers installed a month ago (winter) it didn't even get through spring. This is to be expected. I have wrapped the header adjacent to the starter.
I don't think the ambient temp was the primary problem. Never had a starter problem till I put the LT headers in. Got through last summer fine. With headers installed a month ago (winter) it didn't even get through spring. This is to be expected. I have wrapped the header adjacent to the starter.
It still wouldn't hurt to put wrap on the starter also, its only $10 and is a great precautionary measure.( Its your call). It gets real hot down there....I shot my headers with a temp gun and it was 500+ degrees where the tubes meet.WW
I don't think the ambient temp was the primary problem. Never had a starter problem till I put the LT headers in. Got through last summer fine. With headers installed a month ago (winter) it didn't even get through spring. This is to be expected. I have wrapped the header adjacent to the starter.
your factory start heavy metal right? the denso is aluminum which will disipitate heat a lot quiker at any rate. So yes all the heat combined header/underhood/outside takes it's toll on those dinosaur metal starters. the denso is gear reduction as well.
It still wouldn't hurt to put wrap on the starter also, its only $10 and is a great precautionary measure.( Its your call). It gets real hot down there....I shot my headers with a temp gun and it was 500+ degrees where the tubes meet.WW
your factory start heavy metal right? the denso is aluminum which will disipitate heat a lot quiker at any rate. So yes all the heat combined header/underhood/outside takes it's toll on those dinosaur metal starters. the denso is gear reduction as well.
I don't have any regrets getting that boat anchor out. I think it gets really hot when the motor is switched off. I think it would be better to let the car idle for 5 minutes before switching off to let it cool down. The hood design doesn't help. May be worth putting in some louvres in the top of the hood to let the heat out.