stupid spark plug question
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Joined: Aug 2008
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From: odessa MO
stupid spark plug question
I bought a set of ac delco rapidfire plugs for my '92 lt1. Do i need to set the gap on these plugs or do they come pre gapped? Yea, I know i coulda asked the guy at the parts store. 
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Jacksonville FL
Most of the time they are set close but shipping and rough handling can be he** on the .001's involved. Gap tools are like a buck, invest in one.
I am looking at the Rapid Fires also. Post up your thoughts when you get a chance to ride em around some.
I am looking at the Rapid Fires also. Post up your thoughts when you get a chance to ride em around some.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2008
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Gap Your spark plugs yourself. Trust Your Own work only.
Not the parts guys word. They know Jack only.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: H-Town Texas
I just bought a set myself. Good plugs, though they do not last as long as platinums, but I change them every year anyway.
Yes, you do need to gap these. They are not pre-gapped.
The box says to gap according vehicle spec. which is .050.
The guy and NAPA said .060, but I'm going with .050.
Yes, you do need to gap these. They are not pre-gapped.
The box says to gap according vehicle spec. which is .050.
The guy and NAPA said .060, but I'm going with .050.
Team Owner
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From: Fort Knox, KY
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I like the NGK TR-55 Double Platinums, personally. The plug gap for them in an LT1 in the stock heat ranges is .050.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Katy Texas
Sparky
What is considered to be a better spark plug for a stock 96 LT1 Auto Corvette?
Looking to replace the spark plugs soon and I would like to see what is recommended by some of the members on the forum who have had previous experience with this.
Also would appreciate any tips on changing out the plugs. Some of them seem hard to get to.
Looking to replace the spark plugs soon and I would like to see what is recommended by some of the members on the forum who have had previous experience with this.
Also would appreciate any tips on changing out the plugs. Some of them seem hard to get to.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,139
Likes: 482
From: H-Town Texas
What is considered to be a better spark plug for a stock 96 LT1 Auto Corvette?
Looking to replace the spark plugs soon and I would like to see what is recommended by some of the members on the forum who have had previous experience with this.
Also would appreciate any tips on changing out the plugs. Some of them seem hard to get to.
Looking to replace the spark plugs soon and I would like to see what is recommended by some of the members on the forum who have had previous experience with this.
Also would appreciate any tips on changing out the plugs. Some of them seem hard to get to.
Installation, I just say start with #8 first as it is the biggest PIA. Once it's done, the rest are comparitively cake. I use a swivelled 5/8 plug socket on #8 as it is difficult if not impossible to get a standard deep plug socket and wratchet together in that space.
On drivers side, go ahead and dismount the ASR, and it is also easier if you unhook the emission hoses and pull those to the side. Once you do that, it takes about 1.5 min per plug.
Using antiseize will greatly ease future changes, hopefully the P.O. did the same.
Oh, and do one at time so as not to get the wires crossed.
One last thing. I strongly recommend changing them when the engine is cold. By this I mean before driving at all that day. If the heads are still warm, you run a greater chance of cross threading and that is not good.
Last edited by lt4obsesses; Oct 6, 2010 at 03:32 PM.
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From: Fort Knox, KY
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What is considered to be a better spark plug for a stock 96 LT1 Auto Corvette?
Looking to replace the spark plugs soon and I would like to see what is recommended by some of the members on the forum who have had previous experience with this.
Also would appreciate any tips on changing out the plugs. Some of them seem hard to get to.
Looking to replace the spark plugs soon and I would like to see what is recommended by some of the members on the forum who have had previous experience with this.
Also would appreciate any tips on changing out the plugs. Some of them seem hard to get to.
You can't go wrong with NGK TR-55 Double Platinums, IMO. I've never had one of them have the pucks fall off like the early AC/Delco Platinums did.
Order the plug wires and looms (in kit form) online from Mid-America Motorworks (MAM). They tend to get brittle from engine heat and will break off in between your fingers as you go to remove them.
Don't forget the anti-sieze compound for the new plugs (aluminum heads on LT1's you know). Use a 2" section of rubber hose to seat the threads and prevent cross-threading, then tighten them using a socket wrench.
The No. 8 plug is a ****! Remove the plastic fender panel near the front tires to gain better access. Do one wire at a time to prevent accidental cross-wiring.
Get some corrugated flex tubing (auto parts store) for the coil wire and select ignition wires. This is to prevent them from being damaged by excess engine heat and to protect against the effects of electromagnetic interference generated by the HEI coil.
The dreaded driver's side "hell hole" can be a challenge. I got to the wires on that side by removing the plastic ASR module cover.
Last edited by onedef92; Oct 7, 2010 at 12:31 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: H-Town Texas
It's not really that tough. Yes there are couple of plugs that require some true manual dexterity. The real secret is to not be in hurry. To change the wires, if you go ahead and remove all of the things in your way first, mainly the belt tensioner, the ac/alternator assembly, the asr or at least the plastic cover and emission hoses, you have a pretty straight shot at most everything. While it seems like a real pia, it just takes time. It takes more time getting to the plugs and wires than it does to actually change them. The good side of this, is you get to clean parts of the engine bay you normally can't reach.
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It's not really that tough. Yes there are couple of plugs that require some true manual dexterity. The real secret is to not be in hurry. To change the wires, if you go ahead and remove all of the things in your way first, mainly the belt tensioner, the ac/alternator assembly, the asr or at least the plastic cover and emission hoses, you have a pretty straight shot at most everything. While it seems like a real pia, it just takes time. It takes more time getting to the plugs and wires than it does to actually change them. The good side of this, is you get to clean parts of the engine bay you normally can't reach.
It took me about 4.5 hours to swap out all eight of my plugs and wires.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Roswell Georgia
ACDelco Recommends A Larger Than Stock Gap
I've had excellent results with the RapidFire spark plugs in both of my '89s (one auto, one ZF6). Although ACDelco says 50K miles, I have been getting 60K with little center electrode erosion. (I might be able to go further, but at 60K I change the oxygen sensor and cap & rotor along with the plugs.) YMMV.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Morehead Ky
It's not really that tough. Yes there are couple of plugs that require some true manual dexterity. The real secret is to not be in hurry. To change the wires, if you go ahead and remove all of the things in your way first, mainly the belt tensioner, the ac/alternator assembly, the asr or at least the plastic cover and emission hoses, you have a pretty straight shot at most everything. While it seems like a real pia, it just takes time. It takes more time getting to the plugs and wires than it does to actually change them. The good side of this, is you get to clean parts of the engine bay you normally can't reach.
Thanks,
Steve
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From: Myrtle Beach SC
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Only thing I removed was the tensioner and the drivers wheel well center panel for the plug wires to get them through the "hell hole". I was able to reuse all the looms but they need to be taken off carefully. It was also made easier by the fact that I was doing an opti at the time but have done one without.Make sure to use di-electric grease on each boot...oh and check your coil -opti plug I had to pull the metal connector through the boot as it was too far inside it to make good contact causing it to blow off the cap from arcing. When you put the ones on the opti you will hear a racheting sound. Hardest part for me was getting the #7 plug boot on not much room there I ended up using a long large flathead to pry it on.You will look like you got into it with a bobcat on your arms when it is complete lots of sharp little edges and places not meant to reach with you hands.
Last edited by Redeasysport; Oct 8, 2010 at 11:30 AM.
Le Mans Master
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From: Kempner Texas
As a Rule I follow, everything I buy I check. I tighten any screws (on my advice my son just found the screws on his new AFPR loose), measure any clearance (like spark plugs, pintel extension, etc.), correct filter/plug/etc. in the box(es), fluid bottle hasn't been opened, verify part number(s) on and on. Just a long standing thing I do - check EVERYTHING.
On a different point, in my experience, the hardest part of most jobs is just getting started. I've found that if I dwell on how hard the job will be it's sort of self-defeating and ends up making the actual job more difficult. So I don't beat-up on myself and, instead, just "have at it", avoiding the mental depression.
Just some stuff to think about.
Jake
On a different point, in my experience, the hardest part of most jobs is just getting started. I've found that if I dwell on how hard the job will be it's sort of self-defeating and ends up making the actual job more difficult. So I don't beat-up on myself and, instead, just "have at it", avoiding the mental depression.
Just some stuff to think about.
Jake
Le Mans Master
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From: Kempner Texas
Just some Grey-beard wrench turners' Rules of Thumb:
Resist the temptation to "pile on" or accept recommendations that are "pile ons". "Since you're doing 'A' you might as well do 'B'. " Be very selective when it comes to turning a $100 job into a $1,000 job. Guys seem to love to "pile on", some in a reckless way, but none are spending a dime of their money; all yours. Seems they want to be part of the thread so they just think up something and post it.
Do the most difficult part of the job FIRST. That's when you're at your freshest and your frustration level at its lowest. Doing it that way makes the whole job seem easier.
The 2nd time you do a job will be easier than the first time. You'll know how to reach that certain bolt or what tool is needed to do whatever. You'll know what's necessary and what's unnecessary. You'll know where the finish-line is because you've already been there.
Hope this will help you and others now and in the future.
Jake
Resist the temptation to "pile on" or accept recommendations that are "pile ons". "Since you're doing 'A' you might as well do 'B'. " Be very selective when it comes to turning a $100 job into a $1,000 job. Guys seem to love to "pile on", some in a reckless way, but none are spending a dime of their money; all yours. Seems they want to be part of the thread so they just think up something and post it.
Do the most difficult part of the job FIRST. That's when you're at your freshest and your frustration level at its lowest. Doing it that way makes the whole job seem easier.
The 2nd time you do a job will be easier than the first time. You'll know how to reach that certain bolt or what tool is needed to do whatever. You'll know what's necessary and what's unnecessary. You'll know where the finish-line is because you've already been there.
Hope this will help you and others now and in the future.
Jake
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,759
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As a Rule I follow, everything I buy I check. I tighten any screws (on my advice my son just found the screws on his new AFPR loose), measure any clearance (like spark plugs, pintel extension, etc.), correct filter/plug/etc. in the box(es), fluid bottle hasn't been opened, verify part number(s) on and on. Just a long standing thing I do - check EVERYTHING.
I have heard the vacuum nipple thing coming loose on these. I believe that nipple is just screwed in. I plan to remove that and tighten it down with some blue thread lock on the threads.
I've also read it is a good idea to put blue thread lock on the bolts that bolt the hat down on the regulator. Before I put the plenum back on. I plan to turn the key "on" and raise the pressure up to something like 55 psi to make sure the regulator doesn't leak before I put it all back together.