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C4 1986 corvette wont start need help pleas.

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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 06:48 PM
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Default C4 1986 corvette wont start need help pleas.

Ok so I'm having trouble getting my 86 corvette running. It all started when the car would have trouble starting cold and i was getting a coolant tempter sensor err from the computer. replaced the coolant temp sensor and the error went away but it still had problems starting cold, got it started drove it around the block once parked it and haven't been able to get it started sense. engine would turn over but would not start. car had fuel pressure, spark(seemed kinda week), and while testing compression it stopped turning over completely and when you turn the key nothing happens. So I thought it might be the security system because the security light flashes when you turn the key. SO I read online that you can make a wire with the same resistance of the key and connect it under the dash to bypass the system. that did nothing at all. not sure where to go from here at this point, Anny help would be greatly appreciate.
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 07:45 PM
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Can you test the starter off the car to isolate it? Otherwise, there's a good VATS discussion on GIJoe's page: http://www.joestradingpost.com/vats/index.html
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 10:11 PM
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First thing to check is to see if 12v is making it's way to the small terminal on starter solenoid, during crank.
If it's not, it's time to works backwards to see where the 12v stops.
Auto or manual ?
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Old Oct 14, 2010 | 12:23 AM
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Measure your battery voltage at the battery terminals, you may just have a discharged battery. 12.0 volts and below, discharged, charge your battery up overnight with a battery charger.
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Old Oct 14, 2010 | 05:12 PM
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Ok first chance ill get ill go test it. and yes the battery is at 12v and its a 3+4 overdrive manual transmission. I would be testing from the terminal in the center of the solenoid shown in this pic correct?
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Old Oct 14, 2010 | 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 44mandalorian
Ok first chance ill get ill go test it. and yes the battery is at 12v and its a 3+4 overdrive manual transmission. I would be testing from the terminal in the center of the solenoid shown in this pic correct?
Check at the large terminal with the heavy wire on it. You need at least 12v. to ground.
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Old Oct 14, 2010 | 05:47 PM
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Ok Thanks, Ill have to check it on Monday due to work but ill post my results, thanks for the help.
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Old Oct 14, 2010 | 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by sailorsteve
Check at the large terminal with the heavy wire on it. You need at least 12v. to ground.
The thick one is hot at all times. This is the actuall supply to the motor coming directly off the battery positive terminal. And the small solenoid wire (purple) should see battery voltage when the key is cranked in order to close the contacts between thick wire and motor. The starter bolted to the engine block is the ground. If all of this is happening the starter is bad.

If no voltage at the purple small terminal wire bypass the starter enable relay and retry.
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Old Oct 14, 2010 | 07:50 PM
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You need 12 volts on the s term the (small term when key is turned to crank) Is 12 volts you are seeing by using a load tester? The Vats system has nothing to do with the security system and should not light the security light.
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Old Oct 15, 2010 | 04:22 PM
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OK so I tested from the small terminal to ground and got about 12 volts. I assume this means i need a new starter right?
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Old Oct 15, 2010 | 04:34 PM
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Possibly, but- you could take the starter off and have it tested, just to double check.
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Old Oct 15, 2010 | 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by sailorsteve
Possibly, but- you could take the starter off and have it tested, just to double check.
Ok that looks like my next step. that's going to be a chore to get that monster out.
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Old Oct 15, 2010 | 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 44mandalorian
Ok that looks like my next step. that's going to be a chore to get that monster out.
Really shouldn't be too bad, but the mini-starters are much easier to pull in and out.
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Old Oct 15, 2010 | 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Shark Racer
Really shouldn't be too bad, but the mini-starters are much easier to pull in and out.
Yeah those are pretty slick i was looking at them. My problem is I have magnaflo cats that are in the way. But if i can get it up on ramps i should be Ok. Another question though, Should there be a ground wire running off the starter or is it just grounded to the block?
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Old Oct 15, 2010 | 06:39 PM
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It's not as hard as it seems. Just remember to disconnected the battery first before you start.

The starter is heavier than it looks though and you will have to somewhat wrestle with it to fish it out.
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Old Oct 16, 2010 | 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by 44mandalorian
Yeah those are pretty slick i was looking at them. My problem is I have magnaflo cats that are in the way. But if i can get it up on ramps i should be Ok. Another question though, Should there be a ground wire running off the starter or is it just grounded to the block?
The starter is self grounded to the engine.
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Old Oct 20, 2010 | 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 86PACER
The thick one is hot at all times. This is the actuall supply to the motor coming directly off the battery positive terminal. And the small solenoid wire (purple) should see battery voltage when the key is cranked in order to close the contacts between thick wire and motor. The starter bolted to the engine block is the ground. If all of this is happening the starter is bad.

If no voltage at the purple small terminal wire bypass the starter enable relay and retry.
Ok so today I tested the small terminal to ground on the starter solenoid and got nothing, Disabled the relay and the starter works now but the engine still wont start and I am back to my original problem.
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To C4 1986 corvette wont start need help pleas.

Old Oct 20, 2010 | 07:28 PM
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Sounds like a VATS glitch. I've had this happen to me.

Open the throttle body and shoot some starter fluid or carb cleaner and crank the car again. If car starts up then dies you fuel injectors probably aren't being pulsed. I would rent a noid light kit from autozone and disconnect fuel injectors to check for injector pulse to verify this. Harbor Freight also sells a kit.

Last edited by 86PACER; Oct 20, 2010 at 07:37 PM.
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Old Oct 20, 2010 | 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 86PACER
Sounds like a VATS glitch. I've had this happen to me.

Open the throttle body and shoot some starter fluid or carb cleaner and crank the car again. If car starts up then dies you fuel injectors probably aren't being pulsed. I would rent a noid light kit from autozone and disconnect fuel injectors to check for injector pulse to verify this. Harbor Freight also sells a kit.
Ok Ill do that as soon as i get the chance and post my results. Thanks for the quick reply!!!
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Old Oct 22, 2010 | 04:52 PM
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Okay so I Sprayed starter fluid into the Throttle body and it fired and died. Put the noide light from autozone and when i turn the key there is no light and when i release the key it blinks once.
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