After driving into work this morning the car wont start, it'll crank over but womt fire off. On the way in everything was running great till about a block from work then the sys light came on and the security light started blinking. It's a 92 auto first time it's every done something like this please help I have to get home from work and would rather drive it home than hitch a ride.

 

sounds like something is a miss with your security system. If for some reason the sysyem is activated while driving it cannot cut the car off but it can prevent it form restarting.

 

Any Idea how to get it disabled so i can get the car to the house? I'm going to see if it'll let me pull any codes in the mean time.. Just got back, no codes showed, just the 12 code. I thought that was odd so i pulled the paperclip and it started right up. This still has me woried though I hate getting stranded anywhere in TX with a car with NE plates.

 

If it were VATS related it wouldn't crank.

Members have had luck locking and unlocking the driver door. Sometimes the Ignition key gets gunked up over time causing the resistor pellet not to read correctly. Try cleaning the key with alcohol.

92 has an OPTI-spark doesn't it? that's what I'd suspect but don't order parts till you've tested things like spark, fuel pressure.
Good luck

 

I changed out the Opti about a year ago with a vented one because it was bad, it isn't acting like that at all. I'll try the key to see if that does it. ty

 

The Ignition control module can act up when hot when failing. You can loose all spark.

ICM's are cheap.

 

Well cleaning the key didn't work and it only does it while it's hot so I'll give that a shot next. Hopefully O'rilleys has one on hand. I'll let ya know in a bit if it works.

 

A failing ignition coil can act up like that, too. Since the coil and ICM are in close proximity to one another on an LT1, I'd replace both parts.

Cheap peace of mind and O' Reilly's should have both parts.

 

***** Nilly replacing parts is the absolute dumbest way to repair a car. When it won't start, THAT is the time to do some diagnostics to find out what is preventing the engine from starting. Lets go to page 1 of any auto repair book. Engines require three vital things to start and continue to run, hot spark and spark at the right time, fuel and air and in the correct ratio, and cylinder compression. Use your timing light while someone cranks to see if you have spark, optispark timing is fixed and cannot be measured. Bring a grounded wire near an unplugged spark plug boot while someone cranks, you should have a snappy at least 1/2" spark. Spray starting fluid into the intake and see if it will start. If it does and quits when the starter fluid is used up, you have a fuel problem. Measure the fuel pressure on the shraeder valve on the end of the right side fuel rail. It should be 35-42 psi and it should hold up for at least 1/2 hr after the ign is off or you have leaky injector/s or a defective check valve in the fuel pressure regulator. Use a noid light (available at parts stores) and see if you have injector pulses on each cylinder bank during cranking.
If you have no spark when the engine is hot, a common problem is the ignition module, and while some parts stores can test them, they don't have a means to heat them and test them. Ign modules aren't expensive and replacing it is a reasonable attempt to repair. It is rare for a spark coil to stop working hot, they usually work or don't work.

 

VATS will disable the starter so if it cranks probably not that. If it is a car you are planning on keeping changing a 20 year old ignition part is not that much of a waste just do not throw out the old one if it does not fix the problem as you have a known working spare. Some of the new parts made now can vary from very good to very bad. Everything has a service life and the ideal thing is to change it one day before that life is up but short of esp no one knows when that day will be. Consider ignition parts like oil filters they last just so long and then it is time. I bet 50% of the oil filters changed are just fine to be honest but we just change them.

 

any solution yet?

 

Had time to work on it tonite, replaced the ICM so we'll se how it runs in the morning. The last few days after it happened it'd have to cool off to start again, a long cool off so hopefully this fixes it. I'll let ya know in the mornning.

 

Looks like that didn't do it, almost made it all the way home before the Sys, security and asr lights came on.

 

Did you pull stored error codes when you got home? That would be the best time to do so.

 

I didn't this time, the first time I did all that came up was a nock sensor.

 

I'll repeat my first post. Check for spark and spark at the right time during cranking. Check fuel pressure and that it holds up for 1/2 hr ign off. Check for pulses on the injectors during cranking. I doubt you have lost cylinder compression, but if everything else is working, measure cylinder compression. THIS is the standard procedure you should do when your engine won't start. Diagnosis is the path to finding out why your engine won't start. Replacing parts ***** nilly isn't!

 

I have spark, fuel, copretion when cold, when she gets to temp, the Sys, security, asr light hits then she doesn't want to start again

 

When it won't start, THAT is the time to check for spark, fuel pressure, injector pulses and use starter fluid to see if it will start. If it will start with starter fluid, you have a fuel delivery problem.
BTW, what in the world is copretion?

 

it does keep running unill you turn it off correct?

 

Ya, it'll stay running, just can't turn it off after the lights start flashing or I'm calling the AAA taxi.