418 stroker?
If you maintain a standard 4 inch bore, you have to have a 4.15 inch stroke to get close to a 418. I don't think that is possible. SO, you have to look at some other combinations.
I don't know what a typical big block bore is, but with 4.5 inch pistons it would only take a 3.275 stroke. Many ways to get many things done. Ever hear of a 377? People make them.
-Jeb Burnett
You've got to remember that big blocks have much longer strokes right from the factory. Only the 396 and 427 BB had 3.75 strokes (oh, yea, there are a couple of really odd BBs that didn't get made for very long, forgot about those).
The 454s and up all have longer strokes than mine. The 434 SB I'm building now has a 4" stroke too.
I built a 2 bolt BB, 468 years ago and it ran mid 8's in the quarter. Guy (lead footed Skip) use to bring it back from some meets with 9200 on the MSD tell-tale. I told him it wasn't gonna live up there, and I was right.
You should have seen the underside mounting surface of the main caps when I did the autospy.
Jake
[Modified by JAKE, 5:21 PM 4/2/2002]
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
-Jeb Burnett
I know this why???
I read it in Hot Rod today, and it just happened to stick out.
JMR


I know this why???
I read it in Hot Rod today, and it just happened to stick out.
JMR
You can opt for lighter pistons and still rev the he** out of a long stroke engine with no detrimental effects.
For example, the BBs I use to build with one carb - back before everyone was climbing on the 500/600+ CID band wagon - were all 4" stroke engines and they all were regulary taken to 8200/8400 on each pass and we never broke an engine that could be related to the stoke. None of that internally balanced stuff either; no Hi-Tech, just anvil reliable.
Sure valve train stuff would die - since it's the real weak link anyway - but never a problem that could be attributed to the stroke length. These engines all used stock GM rods too, 6.135" with 7/16th bolts, not any of the high dollar stuff like Carillos. Forged cranks and four bolt mains were standard fare.
Early BB aluminum heads were notorious for the studs moving around and we'd occasionally break off a stud boss - longer studs cured this. Valve springs would lose pressure and we'd break a K-Motion now and again, but the leakdown and bearings always looked great with only the amount of wear you'd expect from a engine pulling you to 150/170 MPH in a quarter mile week after week. I'd only have to do once a year re-freshening at the beginning of the season, so I'd say they performed as expected.
Unless you have plans on going higher than 8200/8400, I wouldn't be concerned about a 4" stroke engine. As long as the clearances are right, the balance is "on" and the A/F ratio is correct - pedal to the metal and hang on.
Jake

I sent you an email with all the parts I used. Let me know if you need any more info.
Jake







