Prothane bushing questions: Is it worth it?
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Joined: Feb 2008
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From: TN
Prothane bushing questions: Is it worth it?
I have an 87 and i was wondering if i install these PROTHANE bushings will it make a big difference, is it worth the time do it? Does it help stop rattle and squeaks? I have heard that if i install these it will make my vette squeak worse, is this true. I am new to all this and would appreciate all the help i can get.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,483
Likes: 3
From: Newark, New Jersey
2 years ago I had the front and rear suspension done in poly. Best thing I ever did. Took some time to do, but well worth it. Car drives straight as an arrow, handles like it did when it left the showroom floor, if not better. On cold mornings though, I do get squeeks from the poly bushings
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,482
Likes: 196
From: folsom california
one of the best things you can do. I love mine; except for the tires, I've taken everything rubber out or the suspension. no they don't squeek if installed correctly, and by correctlty, I mean grease EVERYTHING , bolts, bushings, housings, everything. and no, the little packet of lube they send with the kit is nowhere near enough.
if you do it,,,you will not regret it; especially on an older car where the rubber bushings crapped out a hundred thousand miles ago.
if you do it,,,you will not regret it; especially on an older car where the rubber bushings crapped out a hundred thousand miles ago.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
Likes: 3,063
From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
Yes get the graphite impregnated ones the pure poly will squeak at some point..or groan. Got a small container of that blue Castrol grease and used that, 0 noise from them ever.
I think rubber is good most the time depends on what youre looking for.
I think rubber is good most the time depends on what youre looking for.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Chances are that the bushings in the car now are original and pretty well worn. What do you want to do with the car? If you are looking to just get a decent ride and clear up any loose feel to the handling, then you can use OEM-equal rubber components. Rattles and squeaks are in many cases just from years of driving. They are probably body related and going with very stiff bushings may make these rattles and squeaks worse.Some polyurethane bushings are hard enough that overall ride quality will become very stiff. Might be great for autocross or track day use, but for street driving, you may not like the feel.
One thing you could do is to use stock-type bushings everywhere except for the front and rear sway bars and end links. Use poly bushings in those locations. And don't forget to replace all of the ball joints and front outer tie rod ends, and the rear tie rod ends. New shocks too.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
As far as doing it yourself, get a Factory Service Manual for the 1987 car. You will find the procedures for removing the suspension components and re-installation. The springs are under tension so be very careful to follow the steps to release that tension.
You will need access to a shop press to remove and replace the bushings.
Once all the components are done, you will need a 4-wheel alignment.
You will need access to a shop press to remove and replace the bushings.
Once all the components are done, you will need a 4-wheel alignment.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,482
Likes: 196
From: folsom california
removal of bushings is very easy.
place part in vise. take a propane torch, heat the rubber part of the bushing; at the point it begins to smoke and turn liquid, strike bushing with hammer and large drift. they will pop right out.
sometimes they will leave a metal shell behind; collapse the shell inward from the outer lip; it will loose its grip and also pop out.
if for some reason you don't want to use heat, take a series of small drills and drill away the rubber and punch out the bushing; after replacing all the bushings (except front A arm bushings...still on the list) I only had to use the "drill, swear, hammer" techique once: on the mounting bushings on the steering rack.
I tend to shy away from pressing out bushings with hydraulic presses; it would seem to me that breaking free the old, often frozen in, bushings would place a lot of stress on an aluminum suspension part.
the self lubricating bushings impregnated with graphite are the way to go; available only in black.
place part in vise. take a propane torch, heat the rubber part of the bushing; at the point it begins to smoke and turn liquid, strike bushing with hammer and large drift. they will pop right out.
sometimes they will leave a metal shell behind; collapse the shell inward from the outer lip; it will loose its grip and also pop out.
if for some reason you don't want to use heat, take a series of small drills and drill away the rubber and punch out the bushing; after replacing all the bushings (except front A arm bushings...still on the list) I only had to use the "drill, swear, hammer" techique once: on the mounting bushings on the steering rack.
I tend to shy away from pressing out bushings with hydraulic presses; it would seem to me that breaking free the old, often frozen in, bushings would place a lot of stress on an aluminum suspension part.
the self lubricating bushings impregnated with graphite are the way to go; available only in black.
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Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
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From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Summit Racing sells both the red and black version of the Energy Suspension bushing sets for early C4's. For C4's thru '95, the complete black (graphite impregnated) kit is p/n ENS-3-18122G
