OK,

I posted a while back about winter mods. I am doing Superram and base, arf tpis heads, tpis long tubes, and a 219 cam.

These are the parts I am getting ready to order. ANy comments are welcome. Is there anthing I missed??

Head Gakets - Fel Pro Q7733PT2
Intake Gaskets - Fel Pro 1204
Oil Pan Gasket Kit - Fel Pro OS34500R
Water Pump Gaskets
Assembly Lube
Scorpion 1.6 Roller Rockers - SCP1003BL
Comp Cams Hyd Roller Lifters - 850-16
Pushrod Length Checker
GM Perf Timing Chain Set - 12371043
Timing Cover with gaskets - SUM-G3200-K
ARP Head Bolt Kit - 134-3601
March Underdive Pullely Set - 4425
Standard Motors Wire Set -
Bosh 02 Sensor
Bosch Platinum IR Fusion Plugs
Summit Water Pump - 312635

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Mike

 

Are those just head gaskets or a complete head set? If not a set, you'll need valve cover gaskets. I like the graphite header gaskets also. Sounds like a potent combo

 

It looks like the ones that were on my car were rubber and really new. I was just going to run to a parts store and grab those if needed.

Yeah, I'm hoping it wakes my motor up a bit. The timing chain had a lot of slop so im sure that wasnt helping anything. The car was quick but it left a lot to be desired.

Its funny when I drive the vette for a week straight, then switch back to my sierra 4x4. The ABS are locking up and the body rolls all over the place with tires squealing. Forget to match my driving style to the vehicle haha.

 

Hey, Paul; What's Up?

Just wondering, how'd you manage to hear what he wrote?

LOL, just pulling you chain; have a Good One.

Jake

 

I am using a Cloye's "True- Roller" timing on my 94 (LT-1). I think they are a superior chain compared to what I've seen form GM. (If you haven't ordered yet, check one out)
Don't forget about Lock-Tite for the cam bolts & posi-locks on the roller rockers & thread sealer for the bolts that extend into the water jackets.

Also, the proper tools to remove the balancer hub & the crank gear for the timing set.

 

Save $80
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12499225/

Head gaskets are wrong unless you are building a 400
Are for 1.250 bore
( you don't state what you are working on! )

 

I picked that GM chain because i read there wouldnt be any issues with fitment. This is just a daily driver, nothing special here. I thought that chain would be fine. I'll look into that chain too though.

Will do on the lifters.

Its a 91 L98. 350 Stock bore. I remember pete K saying thats the head gasket set he has always used on all of his motors. I must have mis understood. Any recommendations for the right on?

The heads are TPIS CNC'd AFR 190cc. These were 187CC heads, 56cc chambers, .625 lift springs, and titainium retainers. They flowed in the low 270's at .550 cfm. We offered them from 1994-about 2001. Theya re a great head for 350 and 383 CI engines.

The cam is a accel or LPE 219/219.

Thanks for all of your help.

Mike

 

Congrats on what sounds like a very well thought out combo....... it should be a blast to drive on the street with all that torque

The only thing I can think of is to be sure to make provisions for a tune before you get her fired up initially; that'll make life easier (and safer) on the other end.

What about the the tranny & gearing?

 

You want the same gasket but in 4.060 bore size to suit 350 block.
One you list is 4.125 for 400 block

 

I cant find that gasket in 4.060 size. Any chance you could get me a link.

The tranny is a stock zf6. Gearing is stock for a 91 6 speed.

THanks

Mike

 

I'm running a very similar combination on my 85. When I installed AFR 195 Eliminator heads I used Felpro 1003 head gaskets. They were the gaskets recommended by AFR. I used Felpro 1404 exhaust gaskets. They match very well to the AFR ports and TPiS headers. I used Felpro 1256 intake gaskets. I found it beeter to undersize the intake gaskets a little and then trim to fit the head ports. That way the blue sealer on the gasket fit better with the SR ports.

 

I'll look into those gaskets as well. I have an exhaust header gasket, so I hope to use that one. It is the multi layered metal one from what I recall.

Does anyone else have any imput on the combo of parts listed above? I hope to order all of this later on tonight so I can have everything in when I need it.

Thanks,

Mike

 

Thanks for clearing that up.

I have been trying to contact you about our PM's back in August but I havent been able to.

Mike

 

Well this is what I finally ordered...

A-1 CARDONE Master Cylinder

BOSCH 12014 Oxygen Sensor

BOSCH 4512 Spark Plug

FEL-PRO 5152 Water Pump Gasket

FEL-PRO OS34500R Oil Pan Gasket

FEL-PRO 13032 Water Pump Gasket

FEL-PRO 70822 Oil Drain Plug Gasket

FOUR SEASONS 26729 A/C System O-Ring & Gasket Kit

GOODYEAR 63163 By-Pass Hose

STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS 6892 Spark Plug Wire Set

ARP 134-3601 Head bolt Kit

Assembly Lube

Pushrod Length Checker

Cloyes Timing Set - CLO-9-3100

Fel Pro 7733PT2 Head Gasket

Fel Pro 1256 Intake Gasket (1204 and 1205 are avail locally)

Under Drive Pulley Set 4425

GMPP Hydraulic Lifters NAL-12499225

Scorpion NSA 7/16th Roller Rockers - SCP1003BL

Summit H2O pump

Intake Manifold bolt kit

Timing Cover



Hopefully I got everything that I cant get locally.

I want to break this in car build up into a few different days.

Next step is to degrease everything, clean up gaskets, clean up parts that I am reusing.

Then I want to install the oil pan gasket, heads, timing chain and cover, and measure push rod length.

Next I want to order pushrods, make sure I have everything for the intake install then install the intake base.

Once that Is done, install all accessories and radiator and condensor.

Lastly is install the SuperRam and button everything up.

This car will not be driven until March so I have plenty of time, but I am fighting the weather.

I want to pull my dash apart and replace the heater core, and try to get rid of any squeaks and rattles.

In the summer, I plan on doing weather Stripping and fixing my door panels.

I have already replaced the brake booster with a metal one, plan on a brake master cylinder, replaced the clutch master and slave.

The clutch is new, and a used DMF was installed in July. It replaced a Findaza SMF.

Lastly is a nice set of ZR1 rims and new tires. My current ones passed inspection, but will not pass again in 2012.

This board is great but it really teaches you how to spend money.

Thanks,

Mike

 

Don't forget to prime the oil system.

With the completed engine sitting for so long without being started I'd re-prime it too.

Jake

 

OK...question is how would i do that? I know it sounds really dumb but I have no idea. The oil pump runs when the motor is turning over, so should i turn the crank at the harmonic balancer 8-10 revolutions???

 

The oil pump is driven by the distributor. You can buy an attachment for a drill.

 

Yes. You need to buy or borrow a oil pump priming tool. AutoZone, etc., may have them for loan/sell. You must use a specific oil priming tool or a modified distributor to do the priming. Otherwise the passenger side of the valve train won't get any oil.

Once you have the correct priming tool, you then attach the priming tool to a 1/2" drive drill (3/8" drive drills usually over-heat), remove the distributor and insert the priming tool into the intake manifold hole when the distributor would normally be inserted.

Index the priming tool with the oil pump drive rod and start the drill. This will cause the oil pump to turn and cause oil to flow thorough the entire engine. You'll need to manually turn the engine over many times (1/4 turn at a time) with a ratchet/socket to cause oil to reach all the rocker arms. You should continue priming until oil is seen flowing from all 16 rocker arms.

I prime mine until there is no sign of air coming from any of the rockers along with the oil. At first oil and air will exit the rocker arm at the same time but I continue priming until it's only oil, with NO air. I prefer to purge all the air from the system.

I always install a oil pressure gauge on the rear of the block so I can monitor the pressure as I operate the drill. That's optional but a good idea.

Hope this helps.

Jake

 

My builder actually told me to use the starter to prime the motor. I took out all of the plugs and spun the motor with the starter. (I was surprised how fast it spins w/o the plugs).

It took 20-30 seconds to prime the engine. The pressure came up to 40psi by using the starter. After about 1 minute, I let the starter rest. Then, I hit it for another minute.

I confirmed oil was up at the rockers (though not much) before installing the rocker covers. This lets you know your oil pump is working.

Had I not seen 40psi on the gauge, I would have gone the priming tool route. OTOH, spinning a motor with the starter for 1 minute probably doesn't make the starter very happy. That's why I didn't do it for too long (and repeated the prime after a rest).

 

No, it doesn't "sound really dumb". None of us was born already knowing how to do this stuff. We all had to learn.

Jake