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I have replaced the clutch assembly on my '87. The master cylinder was seized up. I replaced that also. I bled the clutch assembly after replacing the fluid. Now I cannot disengage the clutch, it will not shift. I only have 5/16" (.25") travel on the clutch fork push rod. The book says there should be .7" travel in the push rod. Everything else seems good. Any suggestions?
When you push the clutch pedal, does it go all the way down, or does it get "stuck" part way down? If it sticks, you might have the wrong parts installed or the clutch plate might be backwards.
If the pedal goes down all the way, it could be an internally leaking slave cyl.
time to bleed again. If this does not cure the problem, your slave cylinder is corroded or has another problem.
Usually you can disassemble, and replace the cup and boot on this with minimal honing.
I have bled the system a few times. Still the pedal goes straight to floor with little to no resistance. The fork is on the pivot and I am fairly sure the clutch plate is on correct. The only thing left is replace the slave cylinder. I don't think the line is clogged, there wouldn't be any fluid.
I have bled the system a few times. Still the pedal goes straight to floor with little to no resistance. The fork is on the pivot and I am fairly sure the clutch plate is on correct. The only thing left is replace the slave cylinder. I don't think the line is clogged, there wouldn't be any fluid.
So, you have a new master, you have bled the system thoroughly, you are confident the clutch is assembled correctly, but you are not getting a full stroke from the slave.
Looks like you will be replacing the slave. When you do, avoid the mandrel-drawn steel cyls and use an aftermarket cast cyl. There are well documented build problems with the factory cyls.