NOS System for LT4 Corvette?
dont get a 'dry' kit.
get a 'wet' kit by NX. 'wet' means its sprays both fuel and nitrous together, in the same stream. Whereas 'dry' means a secondary booster pump comes on, with nitrous, to try to overpressurize your stock injectors to get the additional fuel.
NX makes a generic GM EFI kit that I used.
I ran a nitrous kit for about 5 years. It made 445 rwhp/ 525 rwTQ (!) vs. 353 rwHp and 355 rwTQ on my cam/ long tube lt1.
I ended up yanking it and put in a S/C due to the following issues:
1. spraying w / a half tank of nitrous did not yield as much HP as a full tank. Even when spraying at the same tank PSI ! Imagine how annoying that would be. It'd be like your car was faster on a full tank of gas than 1/2 tank of gas. You could try to minimze this by using a bigger tank, i guess vs. the little 10 lb tank I had.
2. TQ hit is hard at first (525 rw peak TQ) and then it rapidly diminishes. 525 sounds great, but it is dropping fast as you are approaching redline.
3. Annoying having to open the bottle every time some punk comes around. Even with my remote bottle opener. Id rather just hit the gas and go.
All this said, nitrous will make you a lot faster at the track. I was seeing trap speeds of 121 MPH w/ nitrous and 112 without it. Thats a huge difference.
The wet systems are all safe for our cars (even with stock hyperteutic pistons) at the 100 shot level. Beyond that, go with a bigger fuel pump (like a racetronix hot-wired walbro 255 l/ hr). May also want to consider timing retard (a little bit) beyond 100 shot.
Bottomline:
If you are planning on keeping your car for awhile you may be happier with forced induction. Talk with greg @ blowerworks if interested. He's the only one that knows how to make FI work on lt1s.
dont get a 'dry' kit.
get a 'wet' kit by NX. 'wet' means its sprays both fuel and nitrous together, in the same stream. Whereas 'dry' means a secondary booster pump comes on, with nitrous, to try to overpressurize your stock injectors to get the additional fuel.
NX makes a generic GM EFI kit that I used.
I ran a nitrous kit for about 5 years. It made 445 rwhp/ 525 rwTQ (!) vs. 353 rwHp and 355 rwTQ on my cam/ long tube lt1.
I ended up yanking it and put in a S/C due to the following issues:
1. spraying w / a half tank of nitrous did not yield as much HP as a full tank. Even when spraying at the same tank PSI ! Imagine how annoying that would be. It'd be like your car was faster on a full tank of gas than 1/2 tank of gas. You could try to minimze this by using a bigger tank, i guess vs. the little 10 lb tank I had.
2. TQ hit is hard at first (525 rw peak TQ) and then it rapidly diminishes. 525 sounds great, but it is dropping fast as you are approaching redline.
3. Annoying having to open the bottle every time some punk comes around. Even with my remote bottle opener. Id rather just hit the gas and go.
All this said, nitrous will make you a lot faster at the track. I was seeing trap speeds of 121 MPH w/ nitrous and 112 without it. Thats a huge difference.
The wet systems are all safe for our cars (even with stock hyperteutic pistons) at the 100 shot level. Beyond that, go with a bigger fuel pump (like a racetronix hot-wired walbro 255 l/ hr). May also want to consider timing retard (a little bit) beyond 100 shot.
Bottomline:
If you are planning on keeping your car for awhile you may be happier with forced induction. Talk with greg @ blowerworks if interested. He's the only one that knows how to make FI work on lt1s.
Thanks for the help. Well, to be honest, I was just looking for something like a 50 shot. I'm by no means looking for 100 shot or more. I looked at forced induction, but a procharger system along is about 6 grand and that doesnt count the other odds and ins associated with that kind of project(injectors, gauges, installation, etc). I thought NOS would be a quick, cheap way for a little gain of HP. As far as the car goes, its bone stock minus a few bolt on mods like SLP cold air intake, pcm re-flashed, true dual exhaust. I read your last sentence in regards to whether I plan to keep the car a while and I do. I just dont wanna blow the car up by running NOS. Not sure how much damage this does to a motor. I know ridiculous amounts will kill it, but giving it a conservative 50shot...? Your thoughts on this?
Thanks for the help. Well, to be honest, I was just looking for something like a 50 shot. I'm by no means looking for 100 shot or more. I looked at forced induction, but a procharger system along is about 6 grand and that doesnt count the other odds and ins associated with that kind of project(injectors, gauges, installation, etc). I thought NOS would be a quick, cheap way for a little gain of HP. As far as the car goes, its bone stock minus a few bolt on mods like SLP cold air intake, pcm re-flashed, true dual exhaust. I read your last sentence in regards to whether I plan to keep the car a while and I do. I just dont wanna blow the car up by running NOS. Not sure how much damage this does to a motor. I know ridiculous amounts will kill it, but giving it a conservative 50shot...? Your thoughts on this?
Look into 'NX nitrous systems'. Also, you will need all the bells and whistles, nitrous gauge, bottle heater, bottle jacket (makes heater work better), remote nitrous bottle opener, window switch etc.
a 50 shot, especially on a 'wet kit' is nothing. Nothing id worry about.
a 100 shot, on a 'wet kit' is fine too for a stock car. This is how I ran for 5 years. app. 20 nitrous drag passes and 10 runs on tye dyno. In addition to many events on the street.
At the 150 shot level, even on a 'wet kit', I have heard of people here breaking ring lands the first time they tried it on their LT1/4. I believe their weak link was their stock fuel pump. If they would have replaced that with a racetronix walbro 255 l/hr hotwire system, they would not have had issues.
Over 150 shot... I wouldnt go there on a stock bottom end. You are asking for trouble.
Oh yeah! I forgot to tell you. I strongly recommend use of a window switch that will only allow the nitrous to come on during a preset RPM window. Heres why: you must...absolutely must... have the nitrous shut off before the rev limiter fuel cutoff kicks on. I cant remember what that is set to stock, but I think its 5800 rpm. If you still have nitrous spraying (either on purpose, or inadvertently (ex. wheelspin)) when the fuel cutoff hits, you could lean it out, detonate and break something. A single detonation event, above 5000 RPM, is all it takes (so I hear) to break ring lands on the stock motors.
I ran into trouble one time at the drag strip where I got wheel spin that spun my car to the rev limiter (fuel cutoff). When I lost traction, the nitrous kicked on and shot the rpms waaay up to the rev limiter.
Luckily, the window switch was set to 5800 RPM (nitrous off) and the rev limiter was at 6300 RPM. So, nitrous was off by the time I bounced off the rev limiter.










