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A picture of the stock oil filter bypass, two 7/16" bolts.
Two pictures of the adapter removed:
Junk that can accumulate in there if it's not disassembled to be cleaned:
To remove the bypass parts simply pry up the top disc, be careful as the spring can fly out. Tap and install plug:
Use a Fram HP4 or some type of racing filter. The HP4 has a bypass but it's rated at higher PSI than the weak stock bypass that was just blocked. Also the HP4 has a screen to block debris from bypassing.
Good idea, did the same thing a couple years ago when I built my engine. See the 5th pic in link, notice that the metal is thin that you are putting the plug into so you have minimal surface for the thread locker to adhere to. You'll notice in the pic of mine the light staking marks around the plug in addition to the thread locker to ensure the plug can't move.
Pic 1 and pic 5. The bypass that has been blocked off is on different sides or am I imagining things? In pic 1, the bypass hole is to the right of the bolt. In Pic 5, the bypass is to the left of the bolt.
Pic 1 and pic 5. The bypass that has been blocked off is on different sides or am I imagining things? In pic 1, the bypass hole is to the right of the bolt. In Pic 5, the bypass is to the left of the bolt.
Just out of curiousity what's the advantage oft he Fram HP4?
HP4s aren't made on the same assembly line as the crappy Frams. They are the standard for racing. Thick burst-proof cases, good filtering with low pressure loss, good internals.
I believe the hole is the right size for 1/4" NPT but my brother borrowed that one so I used a 1/2" tap and a block drain plug (had to enlarge the hole just a little). As mentioned above there really isn't a whole lot of surface area for thread so use a fine thread tap and plug if you can.
I believe the hole is the right size for 1/4" NPT but my brother borrowed that one so I used a 1/2" tap and a block drain plug (had to enlarge the hole just a little). As mentioned above there really isn't a whole lot of surface area for thread so use a fine thread tap and plug if you can.
HP4s aren't made on the same assembly line as the crappy Frams. They are the standard for racing. Thick burst-proof cases, good filtering with low pressure loss, good internals.
Thanks for the info
Originally Posted by aklim
SH1TTTTT!! Alcohol and tapping don't mix. Well guess I will get the billet unit from Summit then.
i did the same thing for my motors, 'cept i put the pipe plug in from the other side (block-side instead of filter-side). and i tapped it only sufficiently so that the plug doesn't stick through too much towards the filter.
the first time i did this, the plug rubbed against the filter, well, trash that previously-perfectly-good-adapter... lesson learned.
i lock the plug in place with J-B weld epoxy. i've done this for at least a half-dozen motors to date.
I guess this is a stupid question but i'll ask it anyway. Why do you block it off?
Because you want all the oil to go thru the filter. Problem is if you have Redneck John who changes his filter once ever 20 years whether it needs it or not, that could be a problem.
Because you want all the oil to go thru the filter. Problem is if you have Redneck John who changes his filter once ever 20 years whether it needs it or not, that could be a problem.
Or the guy who revs the motor before the oil has warmed up. More than one filter has burst because of this.