OK, so I removed the lower control arms pursuant to fitting a new transverse spring ('94 convertible) and possibly lower ball joints. BUT...there is no way I can figure out to remove completely the bolts from the rear (closest to the firewall) control arm mounting brackets on the car. I was able to get the control arm off with the bolts pushed back to the max and by using the flexibility of the bushing, but there is simply no room to remove the bolts completely due to lack of clearance between the mounting brackets and part of the frame. It's not even close, since the bolts backed out as far as they will go hit the frame even before the threads begin to clear the bracket. I'm inclined to think that the bolts were put in backwards from the factory, since they could have easily been put in with the nut on the other side of the bracket and then there would be plenty of clearance for the bolt to come out the opposite side -- toward the front of the car. The front mounting brackets, fortunately, have enough clearance to remove those bolts.

Has anyone else encountered this? What did you do? It looks to me like the only way to get those bolts out to replace the control arm will be to cut them off and replace with new ones facing the "correct" way. Fortunately there's room to get a Sawzall blade in there. I have to say, in all my experience I have never encountered a bolt trapped so completely, and by welded frame parts that cannot be moved or removed.

 

I just checked, mine are put in from the back also. The frame rail support is removable. Just loosen the 2 bolts and you should have plenty of room to remove the bolts.

 

Those braces actually support the motor mounts. A single nut needs to be removed that secures the motor mount to the brace. Two bolts to the center crossframe. Thre bolts to the side frame. I know cause I just did my lower ball joints again last week

 

I guess they've made some changes over 11 years.

 

Thanks, 95BlkVette. After getting under there for a better look-see this morning I found the ones you describe. I assume you removed the brace one side at a time and replaced it after extracting the trapped bolt. I'm not sure I want to take off both engine mounts at the same time -- an LT1 would make a pretty deep dent in the forehead.

And did you replace the bolt "correct" side out so that it's possible to get it out next time without removing the frame brace?

Also, ball joints again? Is there some brand I should avoid? I'd like to think that replacements would last for the rest of this car's natural life.

 

I think MOOG and TRW are the brands recommended around here. It seems the other, lower priced units offered by the major vendors are incorrectly sized to fit properly.

 

I tried to do that when I did my suspension rebuild. IIRC I still had to remove the brace.

I used Moog ball joints when I replaced mine. Still tight after 2 years of severe track usage.

 

Moog

 

Thanks, guys. Bolts extracted and now on to ball joints. At the moment I don't see why they could not go in "backwards" but I guess Ii'll find out at reinstallation.

I'll also probably replace bushings in the control arm if I can find some that doesn't require buying a full-car set.