Headlight Motor Repair......Internal
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 941
Likes: 10
Headlight Motor Repair......Internal
The headlight door on my 87 has been making a lot of noise and once in a while it would not operate. Today, It entered the surgical operating suite. After disassembly, I found that one of the Permanent Magnet Stators had broke free and was moving with the motor turning. The inside of the housing and limit switches are all in good condition. Does anyone know what was used to fasten the Permanent Magnet Stators in place ?
I considered JB Weld, but that is to thick and would change the clearance to the Armature, probably shorting it out. Maybe a high quality Epoxy would work as its a thinner viscosity ?
The brushes and limit switches are in remarkable good condition.
Has anyone else had this problem and how did you re-attach the Permanent Magnet
Stator.
Thanks
8Valve
I considered JB Weld, but that is to thick and would change the clearance to the Armature, probably shorting it out. Maybe a high quality Epoxy would work as its a thinner viscosity ?
The brushes and limit switches are in remarkable good condition.
Has anyone else had this problem and how did you re-attach the Permanent Magnet
Stator.
Thanks
8Valve
Last edited by 8valve; Dec 7, 2010 at 03:19 PM. Reason: typo
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 9,272
Likes: 17
clean the inside of the stator tube and the magnet, mix J.B weld and put it on the spot where the old adhesive was ,put the magnet back in so theres equal separation at the ends, clamp it, let it set overnite, reasemble in the morning. Did both of my 87 lite motors that same way, works great.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 941
Likes: 10
clean the inside of the stator tube and the magnet, mix J.B weld and put it on the spot where the old adhesive was ,put the magnet back in so theres equal separation at the ends, clamp it, let it set overnite, reasemble in the morning. Did both of my 87 lite motors that same way, works great.
Thanks
8Valve
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,858
Likes: 7
From: Santa Maria CA
with the above.That's only if you use too much. On mine both came loose and jammed the motor.
Use a thin coat of JB Weld and lightly put downward pressure on the magnet with a wooden hammer handle across the center as it cures. Just like a roll pin. Then do the same to the other half if needed. My headlight motor jammed for this very reason and I fixed it effetively and solidly with JB Weld putty version by putting little spots of it across the backs instead of one thick glob that would change the clearance and cause the motor to scrape. The original paste version would be better for this task and easier to get thin coat with so use that version. I test fitted the motor in the bore before it fully cured to make sure it wasn't rubbing and clearance remained as when original.
I took both magnets out and sanded the sleeve clean before bonding. I also removed all old adhesive from the backs of the magnets so everything was clean and would lay flat and flush on the sleeve. Do that and you won't have any problems and you motor will work again.
Last edited by 86PACER; Dec 7, 2010 at 09:13 PM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 941
Likes: 10
[QUOTE=86PACER;1576148344] with the above.
That's only if you use too much. On mine both came loose and jammed the motor.
Use a thin coat of JB Weld and lightly put downward pressure on the magnet with a wooden hammer handle across the center as it cures. Just like a roll pin. Then do the same to the other half if needed. My headlight motor jammed for this very reason and I fixed it effetively and solidly with JB Weld putty version by putting little spots of it across the backs instead of one thick glob that would change the clearance and cause the motor to scrape. The original paste version would be better for this task and easier to get thin coat with so use that version. I test fitted the motor in the bore before it fully cured to make sure it wasn't rubbing and clearance remained as when original.
I took both magnets out and sanded the sleeve clean before bonding. I also removed all old adhesive from the backs of the magnets so everything was clean and would lay flat and flush on the sleeve. Do that and you won't have any problems and you motor will work again.[/QUOTE
Got it, thanks.
8Valve
with the above.That's only if you use too much. On mine both came loose and jammed the motor.
Use a thin coat of JB Weld and lightly put downward pressure on the magnet with a wooden hammer handle across the center as it cures. Just like a roll pin. Then do the same to the other half if needed. My headlight motor jammed for this very reason and I fixed it effetively and solidly with JB Weld putty version by putting little spots of it across the backs instead of one thick glob that would change the clearance and cause the motor to scrape. The original paste version would be better for this task and easier to get thin coat with so use that version. I test fitted the motor in the bore before it fully cured to make sure it wasn't rubbing and clearance remained as when original.
I took both magnets out and sanded the sleeve clean before bonding. I also removed all old adhesive from the backs of the magnets so everything was clean and would lay flat and flush on the sleeve. Do that and you won't have any problems and you motor will work again.[/QUOTE
Got it, thanks.
8Valve
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,858
Likes: 7
From: Santa Maria CA
Gorilla glue will also work but clamping till cured is a definate must with that since it expands and if not clamped will shift the magnet.
It took me a couple of tries with JB putty (JB Stik Weld) because that's what I had on hand. Two part JB paste will squish flat nicely and is what I recommned. That or Gorilla Glue as mentioned. It will be stronger than original.
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