INTAKE GASKET LEAK

vr,
Volt :eek:
If you go about it methodically, it will be 1-2-3 cake. I used to be afraid of my top end. thinking about it was worse than actually doing it. I've done it lots of times now.
vr,
Volt :eek:

As already recommended, get a service manual and have at it. If you're a little nervous, get a friend who's auto-handy to give you a hand.
Jake

Ok, ill get the service manual and take a look.
vr,
Volt :eek:
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts

The dealer fixed mine the first time under warranty. It started leaking oil again, so I pulled the intake manifold with the intention of just fixing the leak and replacing the gasket with the bigger #12367777 model. Then things took a turn after that. I told myself as long as its this much apart, it not much more work to pull the heads and get them ported.....
Two weeks later and with much improved heads, I put the engine back together. My only mistake was using an old tube of GM RTV that did not seal up the manifold. I had to redo the intake again the following week. Only took about 3 hours to do the whole thing while watching football half the time.
The most concerning thing is unplugging all the sensors and remembering where they all go. Not bad at all since the plugs are all different and the wiring harness only goes a certain way.
Just make sure you lay down a good bead of about 3/8" after making the mating parts squeaky clean. The fuel injectors come off all in one unit and you just lay them on the windshield (put a towel down first). Very easy job overall.
I've had my intake off lots of times and last weekend I installed a new cam, so these costs are current.
Mr. Gasket Ultra Seal intake manifold gaskets $10.00 from AutoZone
One gallon of anti-freeze (may not be needed) $ 6.00 from AutoZone
One tube of Silicone Sealant $ 4.00 from AutoZone
New upper and lower plenum and runner gaskets $12.00 from O'Reilly's
Water Pump gaskets $ 2.00 from O'Reilly's
Total $34.00
Yea, I guess I was wrong.
Jake
I was changing cams, so I had t pull mine and needed new gaskets.
Jake

Again, thanks for all the help. I'm thinking about picking the parts up today.
Any special gaskets I should get? Any better than others?
vr,
Volt :chevy
Let me know how it goes as I may attempt it myself also. My local Chevy dealer priced me at $350.00. I would rather put that in mo' power parts!
James
Again, thanks for all the help. I'm thinking about picking the parts up today.
Any special gaskets I should get? Any better than others?
vr,
Volt :chevy
Many times, once the valve cover is unbolted, it can moved backwards then lifted in the front to clear the alternator bracket, then completely removed.
You know, the hardest part of the whole job is figuring out how to get the thing apart and which tool is needed to do what.
You only need hand tools, metric and SAE sockets, ratchets, torx head sockets, screwdrivers, etc., but just figuring out the correct angle to get to some of them can be a real PIA.
Funny thing is that after you've done it the first time, any other time thereafter will be a piece of cake.
I'll send you a file on how seal the new gasket up so it won't leak on you in the future.
Jake
[Modified by JAKE, 3:08 PM 4/7/2002]
LT1/4's are much, much easier than L98 that JAKE is referring to.
Matter of fact if you do or have done the TB bypass, you don't even have to mess with any of the coolant system! Only coolant is in the Throttle Body (TB)!
You will need the 7777 gaskets (2), and RTV sealer (I prefer the Hi Temp Black Permatex).
The valve covers do not have to be disturbed nor does the TB need to be removed (I do though to clean it-new gasket is 10105379). I also installed new set of injector orings-about 4 bucks for all 16 from an injector place-I'm sure Chevy has them too).
Unhook everything and remove the intake. Clean everything with final wipe of brakecleaner (or some cleaner) and lay some rtv on the manifold ends and at the junctures to the intake gaskets (corners only) and install the intake-as straight as you can. Tight bolts in correct pattern to 35 ft/pds and let it sit for atleast a day for the RTV to cure. I think most people believe this step is skipped by most dealers and leak returns-I think so as well.
Mine leaked when purchased-I fixed it and never came back.:)
Money in your pocket :D
Another note is to clean the area around the intake very well-either use air or like me block the front of the engine off (dry optispark) and gunk/water blast rearward the intake/head junction. Otherwise stuff falls into engine.

vr,
Volt :eek: :cheers:














