Difficulty Pushing In Auto Gearshift Selector Button
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 1,502
Likes: 12
From: Yorktown Heights NY
Difficulty Pushing In Auto Gearshift Selector Button
Has anyone ever had a problem in pusing in the button on your automtic transmission gear selector?
I know you have to depress the brake pedal first as there is some type of lockout mechanism.
Problem is it has been getting more and more difficult to push in the selector button that allows you to move the gearshift selector
Sometime I have to use two hands and other times it seems to work just fine.
Don't want to get stuck someday casue I can't put it in gear
I know you have to depress the brake pedal first as there is some type of lockout mechanism.
Problem is it has been getting more and more difficult to push in the selector button that allows you to move the gearshift selector
Sometime I have to use two hands and other times it seems to work just fine.
Don't want to get stuck someday casue I can't put it in gear
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 1,502
Likes: 12
From: Yorktown Heights NY
I read some old posts, and they all say the same thing for 94-96 models. We have an electric solenoid connected to a switch on the brake pedal.
When the solenoid is on the way out, it begins to stick.
They say you have to remove the button, gearshift ****, and center rear armrest/console cover and then remove the gearshift cover assembly. Next remove the two wire clip to the solenoid and pop off the two solenoid ends and remove the entire solenoid. We will never have the problem again. BTW, they don't stock or manufacture the solenoid anymore
When the solenoid is on the way out, it begins to stick.
They say you have to remove the button, gearshift ****, and center rear armrest/console cover and then remove the gearshift cover assembly. Next remove the two wire clip to the solenoid and pop off the two solenoid ends and remove the entire solenoid. We will never have the problem again. BTW, they don't stock or manufacture the solenoid anymore
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,721
Likes: 1
From: Beautiful Down Town "SWINDLEHURST" Long Island NY
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,564
Likes: 6
From: Woodstock Georgia
I read some old posts, and they all say the same thing for 94-96 models. We have an electric solenoid connected to a switch on the brake pedal.
When the solenoid is on the way out, it begins to stick.
They say you have to remove the button, gearshift ****, and center rear armrest/console cover and then remove the gearshift cover assembly. Next remove the two wire clip to the solenoid and pop off the two solenoid ends and remove the entire solenoid. We will never have the problem again. BTW, they don't stock or manufacture the solenoid anymore
When the solenoid is on the way out, it begins to stick.
They say you have to remove the button, gearshift ****, and center rear armrest/console cover and then remove the gearshift cover assembly. Next remove the two wire clip to the solenoid and pop off the two solenoid ends and remove the entire solenoid. We will never have the problem again. BTW, they don't stock or manufacture the solenoid anymore
This is the solenoid:
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 951
Likes: 3
From: Placerville CA
This question also came up on another forum.
Both the owners manual and the FSM have something to say about this, and it's not about the solenoid. They say that the parking pawl in the trans can become jammed if you park on a hill without using the parking brake. In extreme cases they say you may need a PUSH to free up the pawl. It's indexed under "shifting out of park" in the owners manual.
So the solenoid might be your problem, but not necessarily so.
Both the owners manual and the FSM have something to say about this, and it's not about the solenoid. They say that the parking pawl in the trans can become jammed if you park on a hill without using the parking brake. In extreme cases they say you may need a PUSH to free up the pawl. It's indexed under "shifting out of park" in the owners manual.
So the solenoid might be your problem, but not necessarily so.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,082
Likes: 3
From: Conowingo Maryland
parking paw will not effect pushing in the release button. parking paw may cause you to not be able to shift out of park after after you push in the button because of the load you put on it. The parking paw has been in every automatic that I can recall from all manfactures. except heave duty. The brake interlock was mandated by the feds in the middle 80's for all manfactures to have so you have to have your foot on the brake before shifting. This was a safty measure.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,082
Likes: 3
From: Conowingo Maryland
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,075
Likes: 109
From: Longmont Co
That is not an anti theft device, it is the "brake engaged" solenoid. They go bad, you cannot buy new ones. Perform the removal procedures outlined above and your problem will be solved. It is not that hard. The important thing is to pop it loose and remove it, some people gety lazy and just disconnect it; that will just make the problem worse. WD40 will provide a temporary solution at best, do you really want to be stranded when it finally stops working altogether?
Last edited by markKlein; Dec 12, 2010 at 05:06 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,082
Likes: 3
From: Conowingo Maryland
That is not an anti theft device, it is the "brake engaged" solenoid. They go bad, you cannot buy new ones. Perform the removal procedures outlined above and your problem will be solved. It is not that hard. The important thing is to pop it loose and remove it, some people gety lazy and just disconnect it; that will just make the problem worse. WD40 will provide a temporary solution at best, do you really want to be stranded when it finally stops working altogether?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 1,502
Likes: 12
From: Yorktown Heights NY
I took my BTSI solenoid out today. The ends pop off the riveted ball ends very easily with a screwdriver.
I tried lubing the solenoid shaft to see if it was binding, but that's not the problem.
I also checked for 12V when ignition is on and off when brake pedal is depressed....that checked out fine.
I took the solenoid apart and found just a round steel plate mounted to the actuator shaft that is held fast to an electromagentic coil when it is energized. Problem is that over time it appears the electromagnet becomes slightly magnetized and the damned plate sticks to the coil.
I've taken mine out for the time being and will be looking for a replacement coil assembly to swap into the existing plastic case.
I tried lubing the solenoid shaft to see if it was binding, but that's not the problem.
I also checked for 12V when ignition is on and off when brake pedal is depressed....that checked out fine.
I took the solenoid apart and found just a round steel plate mounted to the actuator shaft that is held fast to an electromagentic coil when it is energized. Problem is that over time it appears the electromagnet becomes slightly magnetized and the damned plate sticks to the coil.
I've taken mine out for the time being and will be looking for a replacement coil assembly to swap into the existing plastic case.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 1,502
Likes: 12
From: Yorktown Heights NY
So tonight I decided to take the coil and steel core assembly out of the plastic housing and rub it on my small demagnitizer I purchased from Harbor Freight a while ago.
Put it back together and the shaft doesn't stick any longer!
I will have to check it with a 12V voltage applied on and off a couple of times and see if it no longer sticks.
If that's the case, then demaginitizing the coil is the fix
Put it back together and the shaft doesn't stick any longer!
I will have to check it with a 12V voltage applied on and off a couple of times and see if it no longer sticks.
If that's the case, then demaginitizing the coil is the fix
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 951
Likes: 3
From: Placerville CA
That's interesting. I pulled mine based on this thread and found the plunger to be completely free-moving in the housing. When I put 12V to it the plunger neither retracted when out or extended when in. I might mess with it some more before dissecting it. How did you open the housing without destroying it?