TJM

Anybody ever have this happen???

The bolts holes will not line up.

With mounts in cradles, the holes are mere semi-circles?

I have a '91 K member front cradle, and and older block [ 1970 Lt1 ]

Brand new [ albeit A1 Cardonne] mounts?

Tried "influencing" the rubber, but that is not going to get it done. Once started the situation becomes even worse on the other end of that mount.

Getting down to needing a 5 Lb hammer and that in not right.

I am left thinking "BAD PARTS"..........

Any experience?? Is there some magic dance or sacrifice needed??

Already bought a new set for a comparison.


TJM

mseven

what I would do is take the new one off the car and match it up to the original/old one. If that's the problem than I'd rebuild the originals with some poly inserts.

87 vette 81 big girl

Sounds like bad parts made in China.

No Tolerances follwed or adheared to.

Whats blueprint specs to them in China ? They dont exist.

Have You tried leaving the motor mounts loose on the engine bock while installing your engine into your Vette?

Leave the bolts only finger tight, once you have everything lined up properly, then torque down the motor mounts on the cradle and your vettes engine block with a Snap On Torque wrench to factory specs.

Moon86

Do you have the old mounts and old block to see where the difference is? My suggestion would be to measure from the bolt hole in the cradle to the bottom of the cradle. This way you have a measurement to take to the parts store when you start checking mounts that fit other cars.

383vett

When you had your motor out, was the transmission supported? I have heard of C-beams being bent when the transmission is unsupported and hanging from the differential.

TJM

New motor to car. New K frame for car. So, no I don't think so.

Was 75% sure it was junk parts .

Getting closer to 100% sure as the response show up, and no history of this or bone headness on my part.

TJM

TJM

I like that idea. I would not use this rubber after all the abuse it took anyway, and my guess O'Reilly won't be inclined to refund the money either.

Don't really need another project but if I can get them this week it's a good solution.


TJM

TJM

Nah.. loose just put the holes further outboard.

I mean short of killing a chicken we tried most things. Jiggling jacking bouncing, h_ _L I 'd have sung to it [by 8:00PM ] if I thought it would have helped!!

TJM

383vett

Why did you need to change the K-frame. Was the car in an accident?

mseven

it's not a hard job drilling out the 3 eyelets and tearing the rubbers out. If you choose that route here is the PN I used on my 90 clamshells. energy suspension 31127g (you will need 2 and they are marked as lefts for an f body).

Ray Quayle

Hey Mick, Any idea if these are available for the early mounts? Perhaps part number?

rpoL98

i had this problem when i replaced my drivers' side motor mount ('91 L98). i ended up running a 7/16" drill bit through the 3 holes in the motor mount for "clearance".

i slid the mount between the block & frame, I had to use a tapered drift to line up the holes for the frame mount, that required some persuasion. installed that through-bolt loose.

then installed mount-to-block bolts loose, engine weight not yet on the mount (i.e. "hover" mode). easier said than done.

after you get all the block bolts finger-started then gently lower the block incrementally while taking up the slack in the block bolts (i.e. screwing them in more snug).

you might get an aerobic workout from hopping out from under the car to get the bottom bolts, to back up on top to get the top bolts, lowering the motor a smidgen, sliding under the car again. almost like doing pushups.

yes indeed these were the Anchor 2713 made-in-china shells with Energy Suspension poly-U inserts.

you also need to make sure you're using a strong pry-bar and the right expletives, the stronger, the better. young impressionable children should not be nearby.

mseven

Ray, mine is a 90, (not later style lt1), I thought they all used the "clam shell" type mounts from 84 until 91.
How's your project coming along ?

TJM

No, I wanted the better geometry of the later C4, so we sold the '84 front and drive line to a Hot Rodder.

Sold in one day! $750.oo and it was past nasty!

This is a dedicated track car.

TJM

TJM

Thanks, if the new parts don't fit I am going to have to go that route, and pee-away another two weeks...

The mounts on it now had a 1/2 teaspoon of shredded rubber come out when we removed the bolt [ that one side went in with a hammer... That sound got me over there but it was too late].



TJM

TJM

yes indeed these were the Anchor 2713 made-in-china shells with Energy Suspension poly-U inserts.

you also need to make sure you're using a strong pry-bar and the right expletives, the stronger, the better. young impressionable children should not be nearby.[/QUOTE]



Yes Indeed they are Anchor Products!! The last I will ever buy.

It is no chore swapping, other than time.

Work is a pleasure. Our shop has most everything you want from 5 ton forklifts, all the air tools, and spacious shop areas..

Very lucky . We never broke a sweat putting it all together and getting it into place... then this.....

I wonder what "SCREWED" in Mandarin is??

TJM

Ray Quayle

Things are going slowly as the weather is pretty bad here right now. I'll PM you a pic of my mounts with the 31127g, maybe I'm just doing something wrong as I also believe the mount was the same for the L98 (I think even the L83 in '84 used the 17984499 mount).

TJM

Uhhhhhhhhh.. Ray??? .... how about posting it on this thread????

TJM

Ray Quayle

Sorry Tom, I didn't want to take up any more of your thread. I guess it is related, so I'll post the pics of the poly and my mounts with the eyelets drilled out and the rubber removed here. I've been pulled into work and won't get to my garage until Sunday.

GREGGPENN

I used Anchor mounts for my build. I sent them back because the holes didn't line up with the block.

Rock Auto's "house" brand of the same thing worked fine. They showed up with Anchor stamped on the plain boxes! LOL