New Injectors - Fitting
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 101
Likes: 1
New Injectors - Fitting
Well, tomorrow should see me fitting my Bosch III injectors from FIC.
I notice their instructions say to fit the injectors to the engine first, THEN put the rail on.
Which all sounds fine, but how will I know I have a good fit into the rails? I'm hoping to have the car back together tomorrow and I'm just a little apprehensive as I don't want any leaks.
I notice their instructions say to fit the injectors to the engine first, THEN put the rail on.
Which all sounds fine, but how will I know I have a good fit into the rails? I'm hoping to have the car back together tomorrow and I'm just a little apprehensive as I don't want any leaks.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 17,699
Likes: 1,667
From: moraga ca
If the o-rings are in the same position as your old injectors (same length), you should be good to go. I use vasoline on the o-rings and attach my injectors to the fuel rail first. I can't see why it would make a difference which end goes in first. Good luck.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 73,568
Likes: 33
From: Somewhere in Mo
St. Jude Donor '09-'10, '14
I went exactly by the directions Jon sent and have no problems. They will tighten down when you secure the fuel rail.
I used normal dish soap but the vaseline thing sounds good as well. make sure you gently rock them into place.
And when you're done make sure you do another pressure check, and visibly look for any leaking by using a paper towel around all contact points. At least that's what I did.
One reason why you should put them in the manifold first is because it's easier to put the rail on and rock it as you do so than it is to insert them into the rail first and rock them on.
But there's always different ways to do the same thing, but there always has to be a procedure as well and that's what Jon recommends.
Hang onto the instruction sheet with your paperwork so future owners and/or mechanics understand what you have and how to take them off and replace if need be.
JMO and 2 cents. Good luck!
I used normal dish soap but the vaseline thing sounds good as well. make sure you gently rock them into place.
And when you're done make sure you do another pressure check, and visibly look for any leaking by using a paper towel around all contact points. At least that's what I did.
One reason why you should put them in the manifold first is because it's easier to put the rail on and rock it as you do so than it is to insert them into the rail first and rock them on.
But there's always different ways to do the same thing, but there always has to be a procedure as well and that's what Jon recommends.
Hang onto the instruction sheet with your paperwork so future owners and/or mechanics understand what you have and how to take them off and replace if need be.
JMO and 2 cents. Good luck!
Last edited by RetiredSFC 97; Dec 13, 2010 at 02:53 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,735
Likes: 412
From: WV
I believe the reason you put them into the intake first is because there is a larger o-ring ( second one up) used for head spacing the injector. If you put them into the rail first you would have to pull each one down until it seated on that o-ring and this would be alot of extra movement of the injector that isn't really necessary..My 2 cents..WW
Supporting Vendor
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,762
Likes: 14
From: Cumming Ga
The reason the Bosch 3 goes in the intake first is since they don't use clips and if you put them in the rail first, most people will not know how far to insert them. So, when they pull the injector down to meet the champher on the manifold the orings have a tendency to tulip causing a distortion of the ID of the oring creating a potential leak. By setting them in the manifold and sliding the rail down puts the injector at the proper depth in the rail with no further movement
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 101
Likes: 1
Right, the car is back together.
I fired it up and it started after only a few seconds and run a bit fast, at around 1000rpm.
Now, it just won't settle down, sometimes wanting to die, the idle is a bit erratic at times I'm having to give it some throttle to keep it going.
Also, sounds different also, quite more throaty, which makes me wonder if she's misfiring?
I fired it up and it started after only a few seconds and run a bit fast, at around 1000rpm.
Now, it just won't settle down, sometimes wanting to die, the idle is a bit erratic at times I'm having to give it some throttle to keep it going.
Also, sounds different also, quite more throaty, which makes me wonder if she's misfiring?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 101
Likes: 1
Might I have disturbed something on the throttle body?
Say if I take the car out and it runs alright, then fuel and ingnition should be ok. I'm was wondering about the IAC, but then sometimes the rpms are a bit high.
On times when it does settle, it runs at about 550rpm then jumps to about 650.
I've gone over everything, all vacuum hoses are plugged in, all electrical connectors that were removed from the throttle body and injectors are in.
Say if I take the car out and it runs alright, then fuel and ingnition should be ok. I'm was wondering about the IAC, but then sometimes the rpms are a bit high.
On times when it does settle, it runs at about 550rpm then jumps to about 650.
I've gone over everything, all vacuum hoses are plugged in, all electrical connectors that were removed from the throttle body and injectors are in.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 5,043
Likes: 8
From: Tampa Florida
did you unplug power from the ECM to "reset" it before you started the engine with the "new" injectors installed?
Once the engine is started (after the ECM "reset") let it warm up (several minutes) on its own before you hit the throttle.
Once the engine is started (after the ECM "reset") let it warm up (several minutes) on its own before you hit the throttle.
