derekguzz

I am at the best time in my rebuild to lower to 94. I have the motor out right now but the back wheels are on the ground. So right now I am trying to lower just the front till I get the rear up too !

I am not sure where to start to lower the front? I am looking for atleast an inch. I tried to search for info but didn't come up with much. I don't know what parts are called so does anyone have any info on this and maybe some pics too ? I can be pointed in the right direction just don't know where to start. Thanks

pantera1683

This guy did an awesome job detailing the process

CanadianC4Vert

I used these when i installed my lowering kit, they were pretty helpful.




http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...ad.php?t=79763



http://webpages.charter.net/khasting.../lowering.html

CanadianC4Vert

I guess i am too slow at the linky thing....

derekguzz

Thank you SOOOOO much. I now know how to lower the car. How do I save this thread so I can use it later and not loose it?

Alan777

Bookmark it

Crepitus

I put the curser in the background above the first post, right click, select add to favorites, check the link name, then drop it in the folder.

86PACER

I noticed this guy stuck pieces of rubber in the original steel hold down bracket as spacers to take up the deadspace instead of buying new aluminum hold down brackets and cutting them down to size so that the wedges are clamped right.


I wonder how that method held up long term or if any reliability issues arose from that use of rubber as a spacer instead of buying the aluminum brackets and cutting them.

383vett

Perfect timing. I just pulled my spring yesterday to lower the front.

derekguzz

Got the front done. Now I am just waiting for the wedges to dry. OTHER QUESTION....REAR..I took out the old bolts and replaced with the new longer ones. Do I want to spring CLOSER to axle or father away? I dont know whether to let the bottom nut on the new bolt hang at the end or tighten it more towards the top?

So in other words. On the new bolt after and under the spring, should I have more thread under the nut or less?

RacePro Engineering

As one tightens the bolts, the rear ride height lowers. I know it seems in reverse of logic, but think of tightening the bolts as drawing the chassis down toward the ground.

Ed LoPresti

jon0108

You sure? Why would the lowering kit for the rear include longer bolts? IIRC< Its when you loosen the bolts that the ride height lowers.

derekguzz

I was wondering the same thing. I think MAYBE they give you longer bolts that have MORE available THREAD. To go both ways maybe. I am confused which way to go (tighten or loosen). I am unable to test because my car is in the air for a motor rebuild.

So tighten the nut or loosen it?

jon0108

loosen it. Come on guys, chime in

derekguzz

I have one side tight and one side loose and I can't tell a diff with the rear in the air..

jon0108

You wont be able to really tell until the car is driven around first. Ever notice how high your car sits when it comes off a lift.

jon0108

You could actually lower it when its on the ground. Get a box end wrench on top of the long bolt and loosen the bottom nut. Just wiggle your arms around the tire. Your gonna have to do this anyway to tweak both sides to make sure both sides are at the same height.

derekguzz

With the pressure of the spring, the top nut wont move so I know it will be easy to tighten and loosen the nut. I would just like to find out (By vote I am seeing) which way to go.

jon0108

its going to move. It took me half a day to get the height just right. I would adjust, drive the car a few miles, over bumps, RR tracks, etc., come back home in a level driveway and take measurements on both rear wheels.

Bubba91

loosen the bolts to lower it. Front was a PITA but I had fun doing it. I would cut the metal brackets down instead of using something else. I also took off the end pads and cut the rubber wedges down to about 1/4 inch instead of putting on new wedges. That gave me, what I think is the perfect height.