C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Almost seeing the Light

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Old Dec 24, 2010 | 07:23 PM
  #1  
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Burning Brakes
 
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Default Almost seeing the Light

It been a war getting all the bugs worked out of my so called buget build LOL.

Now I think I have a Bad EGR valve the car was running great but all a sudden it started running very poorly and some times just die.

I became hard to start idel ruf or just die.

Lack of bottem end power I think the EGR go bad and it not that old 1000 miles on it.

And the MPG are not that great.

I checked for vacume leaks so far cant find any retighen all intake bolts everything is tight.
Rechecked the timming still good.

Any other ideas before I pull the Plenum off to change the EGR valve.
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Old Dec 24, 2010 | 07:35 PM
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Any codes?

The EGR would only be affecting the idle quality if it where stuck in the open position or leaking in the closed. Only when the EGR switch feeds it engine vaccum does the EGR valve get lifted up and pulled open. With no vacuum feed the EGR is rested in the closed position. If it's shut (no vacuum and not stuck) and sealing it's not affecting your idle.

Unplug the MAF and see if it runs better.

Then do the same with the timing EST connector on the firewall. Do one at a time.

If it runs better with the EST unplugged it's a timing issue. Is the balancer new?
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Old Dec 24, 2010 | 07:50 PM
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No codes I tryed a spare Maf I had laying around still the same.
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Old Dec 24, 2010 | 07:58 PM
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When I unpluged the EST it ran much better fans kicked on.

The balancer is New.

Originally Posted by 86PACER
Any codes?

The EGR would only be affecting the idle quality if it where stuck in the open position or leaking in the closed. Only when the EGR switch feeds it engine vaccum does the EGR valve get lifted up and pulled open. With no vacuum feed the EGR is rested in the closed position. If it's shut (no vacuum and not stuck) and sealing it's not affecting your idle.

Unplug the MAF and see if it runs better.

Then do the same with the timing EST connector on the firewall. Do one at a time.

If it runs better with the EST unplugged it's a timing issue. Is the balancer new?
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Old Dec 24, 2010 | 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Marv02
When I unpluged the EST it ran much better fans kicked on.

The balancer is New.
Then it's a timing issue. In my case I had an old slipped balacer. The timing mark had moved making me thing I was setting it correctly when I wasn't. Would run perfect with EST unplugged. Even new balancers can have timing marks that are off.

Physically set the motor by hand to #1 TDC on the Compression stroke. See if the zero mark on your "New" balancer is aligned with the zero on the timing tab like it's supposed to. If it's not that piece of chit is your problem. Make your own temporary mark and set timing using that. See how it runs then.
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Old Dec 24, 2010 | 08:14 PM
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I give that a try I purchased the Cheep O one from Jegs.
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Old Dec 24, 2010 | 08:15 PM
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Hopefully that's all it is. Report back.
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Old Dec 24, 2010 | 08:34 PM
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I went and reset the timming back to 4 adv it was at 9 Adv it runs much better I have not drove it yet If I get a chance I take it for a spin and see.

Originally Posted by 86PACER
Hopefully that's all it is. Report back.
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Old Dec 24, 2010 | 08:37 PM
  #9  
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Factory setting is 6 degrees. Still double check your new balancer mark. If it checks out at least you'll now be able to trust it. Good thing you didn't waste time taking things apart thinking it was EGR related.
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Old Dec 24, 2010 | 08:49 PM
  #10  
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Thanks I had set on 8 adv on the old motor with the stock balancer.

Originally Posted by 86PACER
Factory setting is 6 degrees. Still double check your new balancer mark. If it checks out at least you'll now be able to trust it. Good thing you didn't waste time taking things apart thinking it was EGR related.
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