C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Help with 96 LT1 starter replacement

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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 05:47 PM
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Default Help with 96 LT1 starter replacement

I'm going to replace the starter on my 96 LT1. In the service manual, it says to "Install the sealer on the front of the starter motor". What type of sealer is this? Just High temp silicone, or RTV? Thanks
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 06:29 PM
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That's a new one to me.
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 06:35 PM
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Sounds like that might be discussing replacing the starter motor itself.

Should just be 2 bolts attaching the starter to the block, and a couple nuts holding wires on.
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 06:56 PM
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On my '96 there is a foam rubber seal between the nose of the starter and the dust cover. The manual is probably referring to this seal. It's there to dampen dust cover vibration against the starter.

You can run just fine without it. You could also pull the old seal off the existing starter. However with age, it's often difficult to get them off in one piece.

From my 2004 engine teardown, you can just make out the seal I'm talking about...


With the starter cleaned up in the side view you can see how thin the seal is...

Last edited by 96GS#007; Dec 29, 2010 at 07:07 PM.
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 07:04 PM
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Thanks for the reply! Ok, so its just a foam seal. Going with a Autozone starter, my old one has a sticking solenoid at 72,000 miles! Must be heat soak.
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 03:42 AM
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The rebuilt parts store starters may not have that seal installed. Mine didn't, and the seal can't be found (by me, anyway) on its own. I cut a new one from some cork gasket material, just to feel better with that gap closed up a bit. Maybe not a big deal, but I figure it's called a dust cover for a reason.
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 07:26 AM
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Good luck with that Autozone starter .... hope ya have better luck than I did. R&R'd 3 starters in a weekend to finally have to go to the dealer and get a new AC Delco unit.
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Shark Racer
Sounds like that might be discussing replacing the starter motor itself.

Should just be 2 bolts attaching the starter to the block, and a couple nuts holding wires on.
Don't forget a shim or two. You may need them.
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 11:07 AM
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[QUOTE]Don't forget a shim or two. You may need them. [/QUOTE I wonder how many need to be shimmed. My OEM had none when I removed it for replacement with a NAPA unit (still working fine, BTW). I re-used that foam rubber gasket from the OEM.

For the OP: you may be better off getting your OEM starter rebuilt at a good auto electrical place if the windings are bad, or just putting in a solenoid kit if that's the problem (it likely is). I wish I had gone that way -- it's cheaper and now I have an OEM starter with rebuilt solenoid taking up space in the parts bin.
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 03:26 PM
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Job done! Got a Duralast refurb from Autozone. The job was easy, but took me a while due to the damn heat shield on the CAT. I got a pry bar and pryed back on the heat shield enough to get the socket on the back bolt.There was NO way I was going to remove the Y pipe! Managed to salvage the foam seal from the old starter and used a little RTV to hold it in place. I think the bolts were 14MM. When I removed the starter, no shims were present.The engine fired right up. I'm going to save the OEM starter and have it rebuilt professionally. I don't really trust Duralast to last as long as OEM. Thanks for all the reply's!!!!
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 02:29 AM
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Originally Posted by 96_vette
The job was easy, but took me a while due to the damn heat shield on the CAT. I got a pry bar and pryed back on the heat shield enough to get the socket on the back bolt.There was NO way I was going to remove the Y pipe!
Put the socket on the bolt first - you should be able to get enough fingers back there to do it - then attach an extension to it through the gap in between the shield and starter. No manhandling necessary.

It took quite a while for me to get that bolt out, too.
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 11:37 AM
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I had no problems with the bolts. IIRC I used a universal.
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 12:12 PM
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I used a universal
I used a wobble extension on the socket, but maybe that's the same thing.
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 11:38 AM
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Disconnect your battery first before attempting to remove the starter. Safety tip.
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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by 96_vette
Job done! Got a Duralast refurb from Autozone. The job was easy, but took me a while due to the damn heat shield on the CAT. I got a pry bar and pryed back on the heat shield enough to get the socket on the back bolt.There was NO way I was going to remove the Y pipe! Managed to salvage the foam seal from the old starter and used a little RTV to hold it in place. I think the bolts were 14MM. When I removed the starter, no shims were present.The engine fired right up. I'm going to save the OEM starter and have it rebuilt professionally. I don't really trust Duralast to last as long as OEM. Thanks for all the reply's!!!!
I went with the Duralast option myself last spring. I left the foam piece off because it was crap anyway. But no troubles as of yet.
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 06:40 PM
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Default Solenoid or Starter

My car just clicks when I first go to start in the morning. This started two weeks ago. I back the key off and tried again. It started right up. For the rest of the day, no matter how many starts, the car starts right up that day. Battery voltage is good. Just last week, I had to attempt start two times and then it starts right up. Again, once the initial start happens, i'm good that day. This week, i'm up to four attempts and then it starts. My question is, is this the starter or solenoid? Anyway to check?
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by MrMagic
My car just clicks when I first go to start in the morning. This started two weeks ago. I back the key off and tried again. It started right up. For the rest of the day, no matter how many starts, the car starts right up that day. Battery voltage is good. Just last week, I had to attempt start two times and then it starts right up. Again, once the initial start happens, i'm good that day. This week, i'm up to four attempts and then it starts. My question is, is this the starter or solenoid? Anyway to check?
Could be either. Only way to tell is pull it apart. If the brushes are worn, generally it's the starter. If the brushes look fine, it's the solenoid.

Take it to one of the parts stores and they'll do a load test on it. Sometimes they can pin it down.
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To Help with 96 LT1 starter replacement

Old Jan 8, 2012 | 10:02 AM
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Default Thanks 96GS#007

Thanks 96GS#007. You have offered some great help in the past. Soon I will have to pay for your services.

I will pull the starter next weekend. There is a local shop in my area that rebuilds starters and alternators and he quoted me $75.00 to rebuild my starter. I need to find out if that price included the solenoid kit. If it does, then finding out which component is failing (starter or solenoid) becomes only interesting at that point because If I have the starter out, i'm going to get everything rebuilt; starter and solenoid. I will post what I find out next weekend. Thanks again
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 01:39 PM
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Check out this thread about the Nippondenso starter:

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/...o-starter.html

Parts are readily available and most DIYers can do this.

After rebuilding your starter, be sure to SAVE the WAVE!
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by MrMagic
Thanks 96GS#007. You have offered some great help in the past. Soon I will have to pay for your services.

I will pull the starter next weekend. There is a local shop in my area that rebuilds starters and alternators and he quoted me $75.00 to rebuild my starter. I need to find out if that price included the solenoid kit. If it does, then finding out which component is failing (starter or solenoid) becomes only interesting at that point because If I have the starter out, i'm going to get everything rebuilt; starter and solenoid. I will post what I find out next weekend. Thanks again


Most likely the $75 will only get you new brushes. Going from memory, the brushes are usually around $15 and the shop will charge 30-45 minutes of labor.

If the price does include the solenoid, he's giving you a pretty good deal.
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