When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My 89 Corvette with 136k is in need of an upper right ball joint. Is it hard to do? Do I do them both on the right side, do just both UPPERS or do I replace them all? According to the Haynes Manual it says I need to have the lowers pressed out and new ones pressed in and the uppers get drilled out and new ones get screwed in. Who has done them and what will the job entail? What tools will be needed as well. Any info will be a huge help. Thanks.
I'm not sure if this is going to help or not, but because I'm in San Antonio for business this week and I don't have my manual with me, I'm doing this from memory....
I was reading the manual just this past weekend on the same thing, wondering how I can tell if the ball joint is bad or not. I remember high school auto shop class where we were told to lift the wheel off the ground be lifting from the frame. Take a 2x4 with a fulcrum (like a see-saw) and with one end of the 2x4 under the tire and the other controlled by your hand, press down on the 2x4 (have a friend push down on it) then let it loose.
Basically, you're wiggling the fulcrum while watching the ball joint for movement. If there is movement, replace it.
Now for the better news (?). The shop manual says to look at the zerk fitting to see if it has recessed into the upper or lower control arm. If so, replace it. I read about drilling out the rivets, but didn't get any farther in the pages.
Hoepfully, someone can make better sense of what I'm trying to say here and add to what you've read!
Oh, btw, when I was checking my front end out, I noticed the right shock is leaking. TIme for replacement shocks. Looks REAL easy to do, and that's what I've seen documented here, too. Now to find the shocks. Last time I replaced shocks was on an 1986 Old Cutlass Supreme - Monroe Max!!!
Mine have approx 114K on them right now. I may need to address this issue in the future also. However, if all the pieces will be off, why not go ahaed and do the others too? It's a good opportunity to take care of several issues at the same time. Maybe save the cost of a cuople of alignments?
It's not too bad of a job, alot easier if you have a press. Yes, the lowers press in. the uppers were the hardest. the rivets had to be drilled completely out. I tried grinding the heads off the rivets, then punching them out. Didn't work. Ended up drilling out the rivets. I was replacing the bushings also, so I had the control arms off the car. Any questions, email me.
I was able to get the lowers out w/ a ball joint press rented for free from Autozone (fat c-clamp). But was unable to get them back in with it. The rings that came with it didn't quite fit. The clamp is heavy and clumsy. If anyone has ever gotten a ball joint in with one of these, i certainly commend thier patience. :yesnod:
Finally just bought a press (12 ton 99 bux from Harbor freight) A couple of pieces of aluminum raised the ring enough to get set up to press it in. Once set up, its a piece of cake. Pressed right in.
For the uppers, I didn't drill them out. I grinded off the heads, knocked out the old ball joint, then just pressed out the rivets. Another piece of cake.
So if you're going to do this, I strongly recommend just getting the press (a 6 ton will work as well) It will save you major frustration.
If you're going to do one, i'd do them all. Just shop around because there's big differences in priceing. I got MOOG
I was going to post a similar question but I'll considering to change all the front end bushings to urathane or graphite type. I figure that on a 1989 with 70K miles it would help to tighten up the front end and give me better handling during autocross. How hard is the replacement of the bushings? especially the controll arm ones? Any special tools? You will have to deal with the unsprung main spring when replacing ball joints correct? Can a standard floor jack help with this task?
I also recommend PST. I got the front end kit which came with bushings, ball joints and tie rod ends and the rear bushing kit. The sway bar bushings have to be purchased seperate. Everything fit real well. I have the ball joint press and an arbor press that was mentioned but it was easier to use a pitman arm removal tool that I have to dislodge the upper and lower joints. It was much easier to get the ball joints in and out with the control arms off the car. Passenger side is harder. you have to take the belt tensioner and the a/c cannister loose. Drivers side is much easier.
If you still have the stock rubber bushings, then the press will greatly simplify getting the old ones out. I did both front and rear, and each one was a challenge. I did the rear before i got the press and with all the drilling, razorblade, c clamps, what a PITA. With the press, its pump pump pump and they're out.
The upper control arms were a bit tricky, i made up a puller with a socket extension, turnbuckles, and a harmonic damper puller to get them apart. Used a 3 jaw puller to get the new ones in. You'll need some patience doing this.
Didn't have any problem with the main spring. I left middle brackets on, and just dropped the control arm. Used a pitman arm puller to get the ball joints apart. Small floor jack to get it back together. It was really quite easy. I hear that getting it backtogether if you've removed the spring can get tricky.. (see the Corvetteformum tech tips)