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Still working on my LT1 converted intake. It looks like it would be easier to put the dist hold down on the drivers side. The normal spot has a structural "rib" on the bottom side that I would have to drill and tap. Was fooling around and moved it to the drivers side - no structure on the underside and I won't even need to use another bolt to provide a pivot point.
But the V8 chevy has never had it on that side - is there a reason?
Thats usually where the wires/plug from the distributor hang down, the line from the brake booster, are. You could still get to it Im sure if you use a dist wrench. Double check on that one though..
Thats usually where the wires/plug from the distributor hang down, the line from the brake booster, are. You could still get to it Im sure if you use a dist wrench. Double check on that one though..
I have taken a junk wrench here and there and applied heat and hammered into a desired shape. Something about the right tool for the job. That said, are you going to do the water port mods? Can you even get a wrench in there after this?
It looks really tight on the drivers side with the plenum right there.
This guys has some sort of plate.
I dont understand
"I won't even need to use another bolt to provide a pivot point."
Like this has a bolt offset so when tight it pinches down on the dist?
With the dist shim in place there is about a 1/2" gap between the narrow end of the clamp and the manifold - hence the need for a raised pivot point.
Due to the tilt of the dist - if I go on the drivers side the narrow end of the clamp rests on the manifold - hence no raised pivot point needed.
I am going with the small cap HEI so I can put the wires anywhere and I almost completely removed the EGR boss. The vacuum ports on the LT1 are more toward the middle of the manifold so I don't think there will be anything in the way.
I was just wondering since I have never seen one on the drivers side. Maybe some GM engineer figured out that it was a terrible mistake to put it on that side and it created a fatal flaw or was it just more convenient. I have a dist wrench - most folks wonder what that bent up wrench is for - LOL.
With the clamp on the Drivers Side, the fingers are parallel to the dist collar - no need to raise the pivot point.
Do like the idea of the cut off wrench with the hold down bolt threaded in the mouth - Really. That is one less hole to drill and tap (with the way I was envisioning it).
Getting ready to post up another interesting question about this conversion - will start another thread though.
Thanks everybody for the input. I think that I may go on the drivers side - just wanted to make sure there was no mechanical or other reason for the placement.
Also wonder if there has ever been one that works more like a bicycle seat clamp. It would positively clamp the dist in place. It would probably be a PITA to put on.
not unusual for HEI users to, after some use (esp high engine speeds), find spark timing 'retarded' with no apparent cause...using TWO hold-downs seems to stop the move, 'theory' is 'magnetic drag' of the HEI pick-up is enuf to overcome one oem clamp.
'plate' in the pic actually has three possible positions for clamps but can only fit two oem clamps...note small water outlets at front of manifold that stop 'radiator puke' after engine op, in addition to larger rear outlets (those 'fugly' elbows on the rear outlets flow more water than any prettier ones tested)
I just saw in another thread about the small outlets on the front. Where do you pipe them to? Then I thought about being able to purge air from the system at these points also (they should be the highest point).
Again, everyone, thanks for all the info.
the small outlets on the front. Where do you pipe them to? Then I thought about being able to purge air
we use 1/4'' NPT fittings (big inside and compact, space is limited up front) at the manfld and 3/8'' fuel hose (good for service pressure/temp, very flexible) to run to the remote t-stat housing (inlet side of stat)
suspect you're dead on with purge thinks...air and maybe steam, too...small added water flow probly a good also...'theory' aside, this did stop the intermittent loss of coolant that a local 16 was embarrassed by when shutting down.
not unusual for HEI users to, after some use (esp high engine speeds), find spark timing 'retarded' with no apparent cause...using TWO hold-downs seems to stop the move, 'theory' is 'magnetic drag' of the HEI pick-up is enuf to overcome one oem clamp.
They are pulling their own legs with that one..LOL.. If a stand alone HEI it is probably one of 3 things. Timing chain is crap, chepo pickup/ignition module or the pickup polarity go reversed and no longer at the zero crossing point. If ECU controled they have the wrong igntion dead time programed in. It is often the timing light as well especially if it is a 'dial back' light they are full of problems, but a different subject for a different post.
Dave